Chimaera Battery
Discussion
Hi all,
Time has come for a new battery. Current one has failed to start the car even though it has been on a trickle charger.
Battery seems to have the volts (12.5) but when tested with a load battery tester it fails, only getting 244 CCA. Battery is 7 years old anyway.
Truble is I have been looking around for a replacement type 072 battery with 630 CCA, which is what I have currently, and was fitted originally, but cannot seem to find one. Some are listed as Type 072, but when you check the dimensions they are too big for the battery box, 278mm long. The closest I can find which will fit is a type 072, 70Ah, 590 CCA, would this be enough?
Anyone know what I can get otherwise?
Cheers
Adam
Time has come for a new battery. Current one has failed to start the car even though it has been on a trickle charger.
Battery seems to have the volts (12.5) but when tested with a load battery tester it fails, only getting 244 CCA. Battery is 7 years old anyway.
Truble is I have been looking around for a replacement type 072 battery with 630 CCA, which is what I have currently, and was fitted originally, but cannot seem to find one. Some are listed as Type 072, but when you check the dimensions they are too big for the battery box, 278mm long. The closest I can find which will fit is a type 072, 70Ah, 590 CCA, would this be enough?
Anyone know what I can get otherwise?
Cheers
Adam
I bought an Exide Excel for mine. Just make sure you get the correct handed one, as Exide's own guide listed one that was the wrong way round.
BTW I went to a local tyre and battery place, who did the entire job, including testing, selecting, unfitting and fitting, for £7 more than the cheapest price I could have paid for the same battery, delivered, sourced online for me to fit.
BTW I went to a local tyre and battery place, who did the entire job, including testing, selecting, unfitting and fitting, for £7 more than the cheapest price I could have paid for the same battery, delivered, sourced online for me to fit.
These fit
nice to have a bit extra
can vouch for the quality of both these products too you will struggle to beat those prices on that spec and brand
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-77AH-096-Varta-Silve...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-77AH-096-Varta-Silve...
nice to have a bit extra
can vouch for the quality of both these products too you will struggle to beat those prices on that spec and brand
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-77AH-096-Varta-Silve...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-77AH-096-Varta-Silve...Edited by Sardonicus on Wednesday 12th February 08:50
The terminal layout on that battery (both links are to the same product) you link to is the wrong way round. It is on my car anyway, where as you look into the passenger footwell, the +ve is at the front left and the -ve on the right.
Unless the leads are long enough to reach to either side of the battery?
Even if they did, it would mean the leads crossing very close to each other, not advisable.
Edit: I expect it would be OK to have it with the terminals nearer the back edge than the front edge of the battery to keep the +ve on the left but the terminals would be even harder to get at that than they are now!
Unless the leads are long enough to reach to either side of the battery?
Even if they did, it would mean the leads crossing very close to each other, not advisable.
Edit: I expect it would be OK to have it with the terminals nearer the back edge than the front edge of the battery to keep the +ve on the left but the terminals would be even harder to get at that than they are now!
Edited by ianwayne on Wednesday 12th February 09:00
ianwayne said:
The terminal layout on that battery (both links are to the same product) you link to is the wrong way round. It is on my car anyway, where as you look into the passenger footwell, the +ve is at the front left and the -ve on the right.
Unless the leads are long enough to reach to either side of the battery?
Even if they did, it would mean the leads crossing very close to each other, not advisable.
Edit: I expect it would be OK to have it with the terminals nearer the back edge than the front edge of the battery to keep the +ve on the left but the terminals would be even harder to get at that than they are now!
Dont make no difference the cables should be more than long enough and the cables cross along their length weather you like it or not my terminals are to the front with this style of battery Unless the leads are long enough to reach to either side of the battery?
Even if they did, it would mean the leads crossing very close to each other, not advisable.
Edit: I expect it would be OK to have it with the terminals nearer the back edge than the front edge of the battery to keep the +ve on the left but the terminals would be even harder to get at that than they are now!
Edited by ianwayne on Wednesday 12th February 09:00
it was only a suggestion stick with the 072 then 
ianwayne said:
The terminal layout on that battery (both links are to the same product) you link to is the wrong way round. It is on my car anyway, where as you look into the passenger footwell, the +ve is at the front left and the -ve on the right.
Unless the leads are long enough to reach to either side of the battery?
Even if they did, it would mean the leads crossing very close to each other, not advisable.
In my opinion people seem to get overly hung up on terminal orientation, if the terminal orientation doesn't suit simply turn the battery through 180 degrees Unless the leads are long enough to reach to either side of the battery?
Even if they did, it would mean the leads crossing very close to each other, not advisable.

Hey presto, your live is now where you earth was & vise versa.
I had this issue on my 99 car. The guy looked up the battery on Exide's chart, fished out an 072, put it in place, and the leads wouldn't reach. Took it back, got out the next battery (same battery, other wy round, think it was an 073) and it fitted.
It's why I recommended going to a local battery place - I used Tanvik in the East Midlands - because then you are sure that what you gets fits.....at very little extra money and far less hassle.
It's why I recommended going to a local battery place - I used Tanvik in the East Midlands - because then you are sure that what you gets fits.....at very little extra money and far less hassle.
Sardonicus said:
ont make no difference the cables should be more than long enough and the cables cross along their length weather you like it or not my terminals are to the front with this style of battery
it was only a suggestion stick with the 072 then 
Knowing TVRs, not every car probably has the same length of cable in the footwell! As experienced above, some owners have to ensure the terminals are the the same orientation as the old battery.
it was only a suggestion stick with the 072 then 
I did find a Varta battery with the terminals the right way round. Think the code was E12, but the battery is too long to fit the box. My battery box measures 268mm maximum so the battery is about 10 mm to long.
I would prefer to keep the terminals to the front for access, rather than being below the fuse box. May have to go for the type 072 with 590 CCA if that will do the job.
I would prefer to keep the terminals to the front for access, rather than being below the fuse box. May have to go for the type 072 with 590 CCA if that will do the job.
QBee said:
It's why I recommended going to a local battery place - ...
What's more, if you buy a battery from t'internet and have a problem you'll need to find a courier who is willing to ship a battery (hazardous cargo). I just had exactly this problem and ended up being lucky that a work colleague had a meeting near tyhe supplier. This was after 5 months of trying to get the battery back to supplier.
Buy local. It may save you a lot of heartache and frustration for the sake of a few quid.
ianwayne said:
Knowing TVRs, not every car probably has the same length of cable in the footwell! As experienced above, some owners have to ensure the terminals are the the same orientation as the old battery.
Not in my experience all the serp models do both Chimaera and Griff
It dont matter now the OP'er is getting the 072 
Don't need an extended debate.
Just contact http://www.tayna.co.uk/TVR-Chimaera-Petrol-Car-Bat... and job done!!
Excellent service, next day delivery if ordered before mid-day....and you can speak to someone that really knows what they're talking about. Got my last battery for the Tuscan from them - about £70 delivered.
Nick
Just contact http://www.tayna.co.uk/TVR-Chimaera-Petrol-Car-Bat... and job done!!
Excellent service, next day delivery if ordered before mid-day....and you can speak to someone that really knows what they're talking about. Got my last battery for the Tuscan from them - about £70 delivered.
Nick
Got these in both Griffs:
http://www.performancebatteries.co.uk/product/AX+D...
75Ah, 720CCA so better than the majority of alternative options. 100% leak and spill proof, even upside down which was a consideration. Good price at the minute as well - I paid £120 for the last one.
FFG
http://www.performancebatteries.co.uk/product/AX+D...
75Ah, 720CCA so better than the majority of alternative options. 100% leak and spill proof, even upside down which was a consideration. Good price at the minute as well - I paid £120 for the last one.
FFG
ads said:
Hi all,
Time has come for a new battery. Current one has failed to start the car even though it has been on a trickle charger.
Battery seems to have the volts (12.5) but when tested with a load battery tester it fails, only getting 244 CCA. Battery is 7 years old anyway.
Is there an easy (probably not) DIY way to do this without a specialist tester. It's easy enough to check the volts with a meter and can also see how much the volts drop when starting etc. but not how much oomph there is inside.Time has come for a new battery. Current one has failed to start the car even though it has been on a trickle charger.
Battery seems to have the volts (12.5) but when tested with a load battery tester it fails, only getting 244 CCA. Battery is 7 years old anyway.
If i remember correctly. If you attach a volt meter across the battery and get someone to start the car the battery shouldn't go below 9.6V whilst cranking. This would signify a good battery. To get the CCA you would have to apply a load and measure the amps. Not sure how you would do this to get an accurate result though.
If you were closer I would say pop round and I'll use my tester.
If you were closer I would say pop round and I'll use my tester.
Edited by ads on Thursday 13th February 14:06
Edited by ads on Thursday 13th February 14:06
Just so much simpler to go to a battery independent and get them to put a proper tester on it. Research the cost of a new battery first, on the basis you would buy online, including delivery, then you have a price comparison should they offer to sell you one. You can always ask for the price and then say you will think about it.
I advocate using a battery indie purely because I don't like all that head first in the footwell stuff (I'm old enough to get free prescriptions and eye tests just because i am old), and as i found out when I changed mine, the correct battery wasn't the one the manufacturer's guide said, but the next number along, which had the terminals reversed. Total cost £82.50, plus half an hour of my time watching the testing, making sure they got the right battery and chatting to the mechanic, including telling him where to unbolt the battery box, and discussing the merits of his BMWZ3 (not that there were many).
I advocate using a battery indie purely because I don't like all that head first in the footwell stuff (I'm old enough to get free prescriptions and eye tests just because i am old), and as i found out when I changed mine, the correct battery wasn't the one the manufacturer's guide said, but the next number along, which had the terminals reversed. Total cost £82.50, plus half an hour of my time watching the testing, making sure they got the right battery and chatting to the mechanic, including telling him where to unbolt the battery box, and discussing the merits of his BMWZ3 (not that there were many).
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