Think my immobiliser is dead...

[FunkyGibbon]

First sunny day for a while, so thought I'd blow the cobwebs out...

Get to car, which has been on the accumate, insert key, press remote fob button, turn the key and nothing. Nadda, silch. No whirring of the fuel pump, no attempt to start at all.

All the electrics work fine (lights, heater etc).

The remote fob works fine as I can alarm/unlock as usual and the red light goes solid for a few seconds like normal. I've also used the emergency key to no avail.

Tried using a booster battery just in there is an issue with battery - still nothing.

Swapped the fuel pump/starter relays - nothing.

Bought and installed new fuel pump/start relays - nothing.

Tried what I've seen on these pages and ttted the passenger side dash - nothing.

So I suspect it is the relays in the immobiliser so have called Carl Baker - hopefully he'll help.

Is there anything else obvious I should check.

TIA

FG

[ukdj]

Do you have the dash top off?

if so I can help you bypass the immobiliser to prove if this the cause

Regards

UKDJ

[FunkyGibbon]

ukdj said:

Do you have the dash top off?

if so I can help you bypass the immobiliser to prove if this the cause

Regards

UKDJ

I don't - but I guess I could. I'll dig out the bible and scrape my knuckles! So if you could PM me how to bypass that would be great.

Thanks

FG

[ChimpOnGas]

Before you get involved with taking the dash top off, try disconnecting & re-connecting the battery.

This is often enough to re-set the immobiliser and get you up & running again.

However even if this works it is not a permanent fix, your TVR is telling you to replace your Meta immobiliser.

Listen to your TVR

[Sharpeee]

Mine did this then reset, only to do it a couple of times whilst driving, 70 mph on a dual carriageway not fun, gave up got new one fitted, now have working car and remote boot release, (which is nice)

[FunkyGibbon]

Just been on the phone with Carl for 1/2 hour. What a very helpful chap!

[FunkyGibbon]

Car is now usable thanks to Carl and his patience with me who is useless with spanners...

If anyone else has issues I recommend you call Carl he knows his stuff.

[l6rth]

If it is the immobiliser you can loop the ignition and fuel pump wires together so you can use it then send the box to bridge water electronics, think they are in Bristol from memory they can test and fix it then you can re fit. This happened to me in the summer.

[QBee]

FunkyGibbon said:

Car is now usable thanks to Carl and his patience with me who is useless with spanners...

If anyone else has issues I recommend you call Carl he knows his stuff.

+1 a great guy.

[TVRk77eff]

Hi guys, new here.
I have a 1993 Chimaera which I totally adore! I have spent hours sorting the interior, sound system, new wheels, carpet, wing mirrors, updated thermostat control for cooling fans, radiator, cooling fans etc etc. I have over the last month or so had problems in starting the car. This has happened a few times.
I use the imoboliser nipple to de activate, all dash lights and electrics work, but no starter motor. The fuel pump primes and all else works, just no starter motor?? I have also noticed that my cooling fans run off a live feed from my alternator. if I turn the thermostat to Zero with key out of ignition, my fans still come on. This morning the fans would not come on? Don't think I have any power to the Alternator? Could this be the 100 amp fuse? Could it be the imoboliser??? HELP!!!

[QBee]

TVRk77eff said:

Hi guys, new here.
I have a 1993 Chimaera which I totally adore! I have spent hours sorting the interior, sound system, new wheels, carpet, wing mirrors, updated thermostat control for cooling fans, radiator, cooling fans etc etc. I have over the last month or so had problems in starting the car. This has happened a few times.
I use the imoboliser nipple to de activate, all dash lights and electrics work, but no starter motor. The fuel pump primes and all else works, just no starter motor?? I have also noticed that my cooling fans run off a live feed from my alternator. if I turn the thermostat to Zero with key out of ignition, my fans still come on. This morning the fans would not come on? Don't think I have any power to the Alternator? Could this be the 100 amp fuse? Could it be the imoboliser??? HELP!!!

Have you got a multimeter? If you have, then see what battery voltage you have. My best bet is a thoroughly stuffed battery which won't crank the starter. Batteries only have about a 5 year life.
If you cannot be bothered to crawl into the footwell, test it at the back of the alternator. Should be in the high 12s. If it is more like 9-10 volts, then there is insufficient charge to start the car. Try jump starting it off another battery or another car, then get the car down to a battery indie local to you and get them to do a proper test on the battery. Then they can have the fun of getting the battery out and changing it - the secret to getting it out is to unbolt it under the car (if it's the same as mine).

Multimeters are £7.99 at Maplins and can also be got at Halfrauds. Use the 20 volt scale.

Yours is an early car, so may not have a 100 amp fuse. If you get nil volts at the back of the alternator, then you might have a 100 amp fuse and it might be blown. But the 100 amp fuse protects the battery and the stuff near it from power spikes from the alternator - if blown, the battery won't charge when the car's running, which will accelerate the battery's demise as you will have been running on battery. Obviously, if you cannot find a voltage at the back of the alternator, test at the battery itself.

After that, it could be any number of things - stuck starter, failed starter solenoid (is that correct?), bad earth to the starter, bad feed to the starter etc etc. There are numerous threads on here, just use the search at the top right of the page and ask it for starting problems

Good luck

[TVRk77eff]

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
Deffo not the battery as I have also tried jumping. All else works fine and no dip in lights when ignition turned. If the 100 amp fuse is blown will this stop power getting to the starter motor and Alternator?? Also why now no power to the Cooling fans from the positive feed from alternator. My battery is now in the boot by the way.

[TVRk77eff]

Think I will have to check the 100amp fuse and maybe the starter motor

[QBee]

TVRk77eff said:

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
Deffo not the battery as I have also tried jumping. All else works fine and no dip in lights when ignition turned. If the 100 amp fuse is blown will this stop power getting to the starter motor and Alternator?? Also why now no power to the Cooling fans from the positive feed from alternator. My battery is now in the boot by the way.

Check the voltage at the back of the alternator if you have a multimeter. There's a convenient hole in the plastic to stick the red mutimeter prong through. If you can get a reading then your 100 amp isn't blown. If you cannot get a reading, it would explain the fans thing. I cannot recall if the starter is the other side of the fuse from the battery. I think not, but cannot remember.

Next thought would be a duff live or earth connection. If you have a good quality set of jump leads to hand, connect the black one from the battery to (somewhere close to) the starter (to give it a proper earth) and try that. If that doesn't fix it, try bridging between positive at the battery and the starter main connection. Doing these bridges should eliminate bad connections. I have read somewhere that you need better battery leads if the battery is in the boot, due to the distance from the battery.

[TVRk77eff]

Again, thank you very much. With the 100 amp fuse blown, stop the starter motor from cranking? Trying to get an idea of how the circuit would be from the positive live battery end to the starter motot/ alternator. Would it be, battery-100amp fuse-alternator-starter?

thanks for your time

[TVRk77eff]

will pick up a multi meter tonight on way home and check your suggestions.

[TVRk77eff]

Hi guys,
just an update, I have tested the Alternator and am getting 12V at terminals with ignition on, 12V at battery.Still no fire up on starter motor. I have given it a hit but nothing. Gonna get underneath the car tonight and test the Starter to see if any power. I have also tried the jump lead on the block but still nothing from the Starter. Alternator seems fine now. Any more ideas guys?? I am starting t think it is the imoboliser

[QBee]

Clearly the 100 amp fuse is fine.
About 12.4 volts would suggest battery fine too.
Poor connection, or starter solenoid, are the other options i can think of, apart from fooked starter.

I don't know enough about the operation of the immobiliser to tell you if you can still hear the fool pump, yet not be able to start the car.
If nobody on here offers anything, you can call Carl Baker to ask for help re the immobiliser - he is the acknowledged expert. You can get him at Carl's website

[TVRk77eff]

Q bee thanks!!!

Any chance of having your number so I can pick your brains??? [e-mail]

[FunkyGibbon]

QBee said:

I don't know enough about the operation of the immobiliser to tell you if you can still hear the fool pump, yet not be able to start the car.
If nobody on here offers anything, you can call Carl Baker to ask for help re the immobiliser - he is the acknowledged expert. You can get him at Carl's website

From my experience in carrying out the Carl Baker Bypass Surgery, when my first attempt was not wholly successful, the immobiliser can be configured such that you can hear the fuel pump prime, yet not have power to the starter motor. It does 2 things.

I agree - text Carl on his mobile and he'll get back to you with means of diagnosing the issue, and providing a solution even if stop gap.