Polish and rust,

[Alun450]

Tvr heaven

[Alun450]

Tvr hellish rust
Soon as you peel away the powder that's everywhere.

[Alun450]

Second pic is N/S front main chassis rail directly below the radiator. That's nothing!!!???

[pb450]

You should see what happens to the powder coat when you start jet washing it! Gone!

[glow worm]

I prefer a painted chassis without any waxoyl ... at least you can see what's happening underneath. You just need to keep on top of any rust spots before they become a real problem.

[dazee]

You guys scare me. Hoping to keep just finding good metal where my powder coat has flaked....so far so good...

[davetripletvr]

glow worm said:

I prefer a painted chassis without any waxoyl ... at least you can see what's happening underneath. You just need to keep on top of any rust spots before they become a real problem.

+1. That's the way I am now going.

[EGB]

davetripletvr said:

glow worm said:

I prefer a painted chassis without any waxoyl ... at least you can see what's happening underneath. You just need to keep on top of any rust spots before they become a real problem.

+1. That's the way I am now going.

Ignore Waxoyl at your peril. Used it with confidence for 30years. It's made fit for a purpose.
See pic on how to Waxoyl upper unseen tubes and angle plates of Griff/Chim outrigers. Entry holes in back and front wheel arches. Easy for a good soaking using 50/50 wax/white spirit (creeps better}

60 WD followd by Hydrate 80.

[Alun450]

O/S front lower wishbone pic up, look closely,
Same on the top rail O/S upper wishbone rear pic up point!
That's just a quick look!

[Alun450]

Uderseal of any description doesn't work if its already like that before someone applies the stuff, quick dig about with a screw driver reveals this allover. I might be saving up for a new chassis then!
I've broken away the powder coat to reveal this, it looked ok before chipping away at it.

[pb450]

Your chassis sounds like mine Alun and mine's a 98 car. Rusting merrily under the powder coating all over. The good news was that the outriggers weren't as bad as expected.

Local repairs only at the front corners, which were cut out and replaced. Rears were OK, even after extensive shot blasting. But the powder coating.... disaster! The bad (or expensive) news was that the only way forward at this stage was a full strip down and treatment.

So chassis is now blasted, zinc coated, primed and polyurethaned (3 top coats) ready to be put back together again. Do it properly, do it once.

[Alun450]

Yes Peter, do it once and forever, the more I look at mine the more I want a new chassis!
I've decided to STOP, plan for the worst case. If its repairable ok but I'm not pulling the body until I have the funds to totally rebuild the car properly.

Got to laugh at your profile note. I'm starting to wonder what's the point in having assets when the worlds going mad!

I'm seriously thinking of selling everything, clear my debts, sort the car and live simpler from now on.
I'd like to clock up 100,000 miles in the old girl before my back gives in! Time is against us, well it is our chassis anyways.

[zed4]

My chassis is pretty good, it had new outriggers back in 2010, and I've recently wire brushed back the visible bits and given it a good coat of epoxy mastic paint to prolong its life. Underneath all looked solid and shiny, no major rusty bits, and any surface rust was rubbed down, treated and painted.

However, I'm tempted to do a body off restoration on it this winter. Mainly because my brother won't be on deployment this time, so he's available to give me a hand.

So, if the body is off, what really is the best and ultimate way to paint and protect the chassis?

Speaking to Southways, they use a hot spray zinc (Metallisation flame spray) and then paint over the top, usually powdercoat.

Here's a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_QrrVWet4M
And some more info, even found a pic of a TVR chassis! http://www.nspcoatings.co.uk/hot-zinc-spraying.php

This certainly looks like a good idea. But what about paint? I've read about powdercoat, epoxy mastic (which I've used and it does seem very good) and also about International Toplac or Perfection: http://www.yachtpaint.com/gbr/diy/products/finishe...

I was thinking of having mine blasted, then hot zinc sprayed, then maybe epoxy mastic, maybe followed by Toplac as a nice coloured top coat. But I'm a little unsure about how tough Toplac will be, maybe it will chip?

Edited by zed4 on Tuesday 4th March 13:32

[pb450]

Alun450 said:

Yes Peter, do it once and forever, the more I look at mine the more I want a new chassis!
I've decided to STOP, plan for the worst case. If its repairable ok but I'm not pulling the body until I have the funds to totally rebuild the car properly.

Got to laugh at your profile note. I'm starting to wonder what's the point in having assets when the worlds going mad!

I'm seriously thinking of selling everything, clear my debts, sort the car and live simpler from now on.
I'd like to clock up 100,000 miles in the old girl before my back gives in! Time is against us, well it is our chassis anyways.

Which brings us full circle to 'there's no time like the present!'

[sheel]

Alun, you will go down the slippery slope if you take it apart now, do it right in the Autumn cos you are bound to find all sorts of things that will need doing............ put it back together and don't worry bout it...you know it makes sense

Rich

[SILICONEKID346HP]

Alun I would give Willow sports cars a call ! They are very competitive and very good .

[portzi]

pb450 said:

Your chassis sounds like mine Alun and mine's a 98 car. Rusting merrily under the powder coating all over. The good news was that the outriggers weren't as bad as expected.

Local repairs only at the front corners, which were cut out and replaced. Rears were OK, even after extensive shot blasting. But the powder coating.... disaster! The bad (or expensive) news was that the only way forward at this stage was a full strip down and treatment.

So chassis is now blasted, zinc coated, primed and polyurethaned (3 top coats) ready to be put back together again. Do it properly, do it once.

We have all seen the pictures of the bristol road factory and that TVR were powder coating over already rusting chassis's so for them to have lasted this long is a miracle !!!. As you say prep, treat and maintain.

[Alun450]

My question is
If my chassis is so contaminated with rust, is it worth repairing it, I feel that the chassis is already weak and I'm not sure if chopping bits out and replacing them is going to be worth it.

I'll ring Willow today and see what they think.

Sheel, yes mate, its not repairing it that bothered me, its the fact so much of it will need to be cut out!
Surely its a better idea to replace the chassis, repair the old one and have a spare, lol

Second hand Chassis for sale, bit st but it might get 50 quid off the scrap man if he can find some steel on it!

[CHIMV8]

Alun450 said:

My question is
If my chassis is so contaminated with rust, is it worth repairing it, I feel that the chassis is already weak and I'm not sure if chopping bits out and replacing them is going to be worth it.

I'll ring Willow today and see what they think.

Sheel, yes mate, its not repairing it that bothered me, its the fact so much of it will need to be cut out!
Surely its a better idea to replace the chassis, repair the old one and have a spare, lol

Second hand Chassis for sale, bit st but it might get 50 quid off the scrap man if he can find some steel on it!

I know where there is a fully powdered coated chassis for approx 2500,do you have the later diff and mounts etc,as it is for the later diff?

[Alun450]

Thanks Chimv8, with all the news regarding the later chassis I think I'd either totally re fab the chassis or simply buy a new one and coat it with oil rig paint!
Pissed off so not very coherent and logical at the moment.
Thanks anyway mate. I'll have another think about it and let you know.