Brake Master Cylinder Seals
Discussion
Has anyone replaced the seals on the Brake Master Cylinder, haven't been able to find a part number.
Looked back tho the search and the part no's for complete units for autofactors are no longer made or have no stock and no date if ever to come back in. Waiting back on a tvr parts supplier on there stock.
Looked back tho the search and the part no's for complete units for autofactors are no longer made or have no stock and no date if ever to come back in. Waiting back on a tvr parts supplier on there stock.
Have breakfast and go to garage.
Drain the fluids.
Remove carpets from footwell and slide seat back as far as possible.
Disconnect all the pipes from the manifold in the footwell (up under the lower edge of the dash)
Disconnect the throttle cable at the pedal.
Prise the vacuum pipe out of the servo. (squirt of WD40 helps)
Disconnect and remove the steering column.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the pedal box in place.
Remove pedal box.
Go to bed.
Steve
Drain the fluids.
Remove carpets from footwell and slide seat back as far as possible.
Disconnect all the pipes from the manifold in the footwell (up under the lower edge of the dash)
Disconnect the throttle cable at the pedal.
Prise the vacuum pipe out of the servo. (squirt of WD40 helps)
Disconnect and remove the steering column.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the pedal box in place.
Remove pedal box.
Go to bed.
Steve
Yes I have got it out, after lots of !/!~## it depends on if you have an early or later car, mine a later with wiper motor inside. Its attached to the front of the pedal box and is a nightmare to get off. Mine Leaked but the servo was ok before so you don't need to remove the pedal box to get master out only servo. I just removed the wheel arch bolt and 4 ontop to give me more movement.
If you remove clutch master cover, and the big gromets you can un bolt it from servo, also the tank pulls off or I prized it off using screwdriver and wood thro the holes once off you can get to the pipes, tho the brass fittings were tight I damaged one undoing. But as said before easy to replace as they undo on bulkhead, i just need a new brass fitting and reflare end.
If you remove clutch master cover, and the big gromets you can un bolt it from servo, also the tank pulls off or I prized it off using screwdriver and wood thro the holes once off you can get to the pipes, tho the brass fittings were tight I damaged one undoing. But as said before easy to replace as they undo on bulkhead, i just need a new brass fitting and reflare end.
Steve_D said:
Have breakfast and go to garage.
Drain the fluids.
Remove carpets from footwell and slide seat back as far as possible.
Disconnect all the pipes from the manifold in the footwell (up under the lower edge of the dash)
Disconnect the throttle cable at the pedal.
Prise the vacuum pipe out of the servo. (squirt of WD40 helps)
Disconnect and remove the steering column.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the pedal box in place.
Remove pedal box.
Go to bed.
Steve
Not much to do then Drain the fluids.
Remove carpets from footwell and slide seat back as far as possible.
Disconnect all the pipes from the manifold in the footwell (up under the lower edge of the dash)
Disconnect the throttle cable at the pedal.
Prise the vacuum pipe out of the servo. (squirt of WD40 helps)
Disconnect and remove the steering column.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the pedal box in place.
Remove pedal box.
Go to bed.
Steve

A few details/pointers concerning the steering column removal would be appreciated.
TJC46 said:
Not much to do then 
A few details/pointers concerning the steering column removal would be appreciated.
On a Griff you can get the pedal box out without removing the steering column. Tight but doable, so give it a go first. I just unscrewed and removed the clutch pedal, leaving just the arm. Undo arm from master cylinder so its free to move where ever. Then wangle the damn thing out over and round the column.
A few details/pointers concerning the steering column removal would be appreciated.
Hopefully the Chim is the same.
Of course you can stuff the cavity around the master cylinder with paper towel before removing the brake master res and work through the clutch res hole
no need for pedal box removal short spanners help but are not essential I know this because I have just changed my MC and it is not difficult
if you get any brake fluid spillage then remove drivers carpet/floor section and just neutralize BF spillage with warm water around servo area then just mop up the foot-well
easy.
no need for pedal box removal short spanners help but are not essential I know this because I have just changed my MC and it is not difficult
if you get any brake fluid spillage then remove drivers carpet/floor section and just neutralize BF spillage with warm water around servo area then just mop up the foot-well
easy.Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 14th March 10:14
TJC46 said:
Not much to do then 
A few details/pointers concerning the steering column removal would be appreciated.
Release the shrouds around the control stalks.
A few details/pointers concerning the steering column removal would be appreciated.
Unclip the stalk switches and slide them out still connected to the loom.
Disconnect the horn.
disconnect the ignition switch.
Undo the UJ at the bottom of the shaft and remove the pinch bolt.
Remove the fixings holding the column bottom bearing.
Undo the bolts securing the top of the column.
Remove column. (A selection of swearing, pulling and leverage will be required).
Steve
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