Rear toe adjustment, geo tweaking?
Discussion
Here's one for the well informed.
So rears are set at 20 deg + toe. If you took it out to a more - setting would that make the car more stable on the brakes and less likely to oversteer?
Just a thought!
I'm wondering how that would effect the rear track through a corner
I'd like to really get into geo settings and playing with them, I was wafting across the net earlier and there was some geo equipment for sale, used at race tracks!
How accurate I have no idea and it was only £450 ???
Surely you could max the car for a given track!
Is this nonsense and the cars settings are already as good and faffing about with the geo won't really offer much?
I watched enough teams corner weight and use said equipment at tracks, how hard can it be!!!?
So rears are set at 20 deg + toe. If you took it out to a more - setting would that make the car more stable on the brakes and less likely to oversteer?
Just a thought!
I'm wondering how that would effect the rear track through a corner
I'd like to really get into geo settings and playing with them, I was wafting across the net earlier and there was some geo equipment for sale, used at race tracks!
How accurate I have no idea and it was only £450 ???
Surely you could max the car for a given track!
Is this nonsense and the cars settings are already as good and faffing about with the geo won't really offer much?
I watched enough teams corner weight and use said equipment at tracks, how hard can it be!!!?
I can only comment in general terms - a proper geo set up turned my car from something that was unpredictable into a car that is predictable. A degree of extra front camber for the track makes the tyres heat evenly and the car corner better.
Others have noticed that my car is quicker than you would expect for the bhp. All down to handling.
Others have noticed that my car is quicker than you would expect for the bhp. All down to handling.
The point is completely missed.......
Any fool can get each axle 'tracked' and tweak the set up...
...but TVR's are most sensitive to the thrust angle ~ both axles aligned with each other ~ which only 4 wheel alignment can do....
The advice I give again and over again is invest in wishbones that allow you to screw in/out camber, have your geo aligned accurately and note the degs that 1 turn makes.. Then you can screw in out to find your preferences and just occasionally return to check you have no errors (on counting threads), as long as you mirror changes on each axle it should stay 'square'. Adjustable front wishbones will also give you extra flexibility with castor as well BTW. Cost of wishbones is quite likely to be similar to expensive measurement equipment?
Any fool can get each axle 'tracked' and tweak the set up...
...but TVR's are most sensitive to the thrust angle ~ both axles aligned with each other ~ which only 4 wheel alignment can do....
The advice I give again and over again is invest in wishbones that allow you to screw in/out camber, have your geo aligned accurately and note the degs that 1 turn makes.. Then you can screw in out to find your preferences and just occasionally return to check you have no errors (on counting threads), as long as you mirror changes on each axle it should stay 'square'. Adjustable front wishbones will also give you extra flexibility with castor as well BTW. Cost of wishbones is quite likely to be similar to expensive measurement equipment?
spend said:
The point is completely missed.......
Any fool can get each axle 'tracked' and tweak the set up...
...but TVR's are most sensitive to the thrust angle ~ both axles aligned with each other ~ which only 4 wheel alignment can do....
Totally agree with this Any fool can get each axle 'tracked' and tweak the set up...
...but TVR's are most sensitive to the thrust angle ~ both axles aligned with each other ~ which only 4 wheel alignment can do....
.. my car was pulling left on acceleration and I'd tried a few places including 2 TVR specialists to get it right.. no joy 
so got it on a Hunter machine as advised by Dave.... and problem solved!
(although I did have to do most of the work myself as the guy's were not the best 
)thrust angle is most important!!!... and has to be the starting point for getting things right
Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 3rd April 11:08
This is best left to experts IMHO.
Alun, I don't know where you located in Warks but give Steve Guglielmi in Daventry a call, he won the Tuscan Challenge 01+02 & knows a thing or 2 about setting TVRs up. He's given me a pussycat of a car that doesn't tramline/brakes hard in a straight line/has good traction & great high speed stability.
http://www.guglielmimotorsport.co.uk/contactus.htm...
Here's my practice laps a Rockingham last month. The first lap I really didn't know where the grip was & the setup gave me the confidence not to crawl round from the off. The second lap is a bit quicker, especially through turn 1 & braking into the infield.
http://youtu.be/JOCBkEP9jX8
Alun, I don't know where you located in Warks but give Steve Guglielmi in Daventry a call, he won the Tuscan Challenge 01+02 & knows a thing or 2 about setting TVRs up. He's given me a pussycat of a car that doesn't tramline/brakes hard in a straight line/has good traction & great high speed stability.
http://www.guglielmimotorsport.co.uk/contactus.htm...
Here's my practice laps a Rockingham last month. The first lap I really didn't know where the grip was & the setup gave me the confidence not to crawl round from the off. The second lap is a bit quicker, especially through turn 1 & braking into the infield.
http://youtu.be/JOCBkEP9jX8
Alun450 said:
Here's one for the well informed.
So rears are set at 20 deg + toe. If you took it out to a more - setting would that make the car more stable on the brakes and less likely to oversteer?
Just a thought!
I'm wondering how that would effect the rear track through a corner
I'd like to really get into geo settings and playing with them, I was wafting across the net earlier and there was some geo equipment for sale, used at race tracks!
How accurate I have no idea and it was only £450 ???
Surely you could max the car for a given track!
Is this nonsense and the cars settings are already as good and faffing about with the geo won't really offer much?
I watched enough teams corner weight and use said equipment at tracks, how hard can it be!!!?
Alun, do you mean Minutes, as 20 degrees of +toe is very severe and would probably wear the edge of the tyre out in a few hundred miles, not to mention the handling characteristics.So rears are set at 20 deg + toe. If you took it out to a more - setting would that make the car more stable on the brakes and less likely to oversteer?
Just a thought!
I'm wondering how that would effect the rear track through a corner
I'd like to really get into geo settings and playing with them, I was wafting across the net earlier and there was some geo equipment for sale, used at race tracks!
How accurate I have no idea and it was only £450 ???
Surely you could max the car for a given track!
Is this nonsense and the cars settings are already as good and faffing about with the geo won't really offer much?
I watched enough teams corner weight and use said equipment at tracks, how hard can it be!!!?
4 wheel alignment including caster and camber by someone who knows how to set up a chim is worth every penny. and the car will handle and feel more stable than you ever thought possible
jamienshelly said:
Alun, do you mean Minutes, as 20 degrees of +toe is very severe and would probably wear the edge of the tyre out in a few hundred miles, not to mention the handling characteristics.
4 wheel alignment including caster and camber by someone who knows how to set up a chim is worth every penny. and the car will handle and feel more stable than you ever thought possible
He's right.4 wheel alignment including caster and camber by someone who knows how to set up a chim is worth every penny. and the car will handle and feel more stable than you ever thought possible
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