FAO people who have broken diffs

[mattrosersv]

What did it sound like?

Just sat waitingin the sun for the AA.

I thought I had done a prop shaft UJ but from what I can see from through the centre console and back of the car they don't appear to have play in them (certainly not conclusive at this point!).

Basically car sounded like a midget banging around under centre console. Clutch operation made no real difference except for the clonk when engaging drive again.

I'll confirm when I get it on the ramp later today/tomorrow if I end up going for a beer this eve

[neal1980]

oh dear looks like 550lbft has taken its toll

Time for a Quaife now.

Hows it running apart from that Matt?

[mattrosersv]

It is worth a few broken things to run something this quick

Car running great thanks. Been churning up miles using it for work.

Wondering what to do next if it is diff, prob go BTR. if it is do you mind if I give you a bell?

Cheers,

Matt

[neal1980]

Call me anytime Matt, I have changed to a BTR diff now as well for easier ratio changes and plenty of spares and you can always slip a nice quaife in there and a 3.08

[SILICONEKID346HP]

neal1980 said:

Call me anytime Matt, I have changed to a BTR diff now as well for easier ratio changes and plenty of spares and you can always slip a nice quaife in there and a 3.08

Did you go from GKN to BTR? ,can you make the brackets ? I don`t fancy paying out for used parts for the GKN diff .

There should be a company offering bespoke brackets to do the swop .

Edited by SILICONEKID346HP on Thursday 3rd April 20:06

[mattrosersv]

Well... Just had the car on the ramp and.. Looks like I have done a CV joint. There is a little play in the diff, but loads on the CV and a ripped boot. As fortune would have it I have a spare driveshaft complete with CVs in my roof. I will chuck this on tomorrow while I go about ordering new CV jpints for my uprated driveshaft (annoying since these have done less than 20K).

Cheers

Matt

[Pupp]

Do you mean pulled it apart or physically broken it? I've had a couple of instances of the former now with aftermarket joints - these ones did not seem to 'lock' on being pulled to full deflection; GKN ones do lock so will not (easily) separate when fully extended. If you're using aftermarket shafts, worth ensuring the lengths are right as it seems there is not a lot of spare capacity in the geometry (I'm wondering if too-low ride height being dialled in might increase the potential for separation too).

[mattrosersv]

Thanks Pupp

The drive shafts are still on the car at the mo, not had the chance to take to bits. Have some SERIoUs knocking noises, but the car still dives. The cvs that appear to have failed were bought from a Tvr specialist along with the race proved drive shafts.

On the other side are Ones bought from Dave Mac which don't take the clamps across each two bolts ( you will know what I mean if you have these).

Ride height is normal not abnormally low.

I will hopefully get it to bits tomorrow, Saturday latest as I might be dragged to friken pepper pig world tomorrow so will post my findings. Interested in recommendations for best CV replacements seeing as I am running well over standard bhp and torque.

Matt

[Pupp]

If it's still driving, it will likely be the bearing cages have broken up. They just stop when they pull apart

Any joints I use from now will be GKN - have seen uprated forged or hardened cages for them - think it was probably Prolinx that were offering (who are a good source of the joints).

Because I'm sad like that, I did try combining GKN bits and clone bits to prove whether there were differences in geometry and/or dimension in the joint design as the pull apart issue seemed to indicate. Whilst a hybrid could just about be put together, it wouldn't articulate or plunge at all properly so I think the clones are quite differently machined even if they look the same.