What paint for chassis?

[Chuffmeister]

I need to touch up a few areas so now would be agood time, whilst I have a few bits unbolted and the car is sat on stands.

I was going to go for the obvious choice of POR15, but was wondering if it was suitable for painting over existing paint? I'd like to do a full refurb over the winter, so don't want to go mad, but don't want it flaking-off within no time either.

What prep do you recommend?

Cheers
Chuffy

[caduceus]

Hammerite should do. Along with some waxoil on top once dry.

[brett84]

yeah hammerite sticks to about everything, did mine the other day in black

[s p a c e m a n]

Hammerite is for BBQs and iron gates

Honestly, I find it very brittle so not exactly ideal for a chassis which does have some movement in it. I did mine with epoxy mastic, it's got some flex to it so is much more suited to things like this..

EPOXY MASTIC 121

[portzi]

buy some por15, expensive but one of the best. Hammerite well, l will let you decide that one !!!!

mark

[s p a c e m a n]

There's a load of Dinitrol in the classifieds..

[caduceus]

portzi said:

buy some por15, expensive but one of the best. Hammerite well, l will let you decide that one !!!!

mark

He said he's going to do a full refurb over winter. So why go for expensive stuff now? He needs a touch up (so to speak... ) so Hammerite will do just fine.

Sure, I'd use epoxy or POR15 when it comes to the winter lay up refurb.

[bobfather]

Hammerite is way to brittle and it has relatively poor adhesion compared to made for purpose chassis paints, good for garden gates but not capable of withstanding having stones thrown at it.

Por-15 is the bees-knees cures as hard as iron, stones won't crack the surface of Por-15. Por-15 is best bought in small tins because it is not possible to open a tin that has been resealed due to the adhesion properties. Also you should use throw-away brushes and gloves.

[deanrufleg]

portzi said:

buy some por15, expensive but one of the best. Hammerite well, l will let you decide that one !!!!

mark

Sorry guys...
Way Off Topic..Mark,sent you 2 email through PH - It may have gone to your junk mail... or it may have been ignored...

As you were :-)

[Thundersports]

I used Zinc 182 primer with Waxoyl over the top.

[brett84]

found some of this in the shed tonight

[GTRene]

bobfather said:

Por-15 is the bees-knees cures as hard as iron, stones won't crack the surface of Por-15. Por-15 is best bought in small tins because it is not possible to open a tin that has been resealed due to the adhesion properties. Also you should use throw-away brushes and gloves.

I thought someone posted a while ago something out the kitchen could help, so when you want to close the pot? you put a film/layer of that between the lid and the pot?
and then you can open it afterwards when you need more? something like that.

[brett84]

Yeah you can use cling film on the tin to make it last long.
All POR products are great, I did the exhausts tonight in POR20, when I do the chassis properly I'll do it in POR15

[Chuffmeister]

Thanks for the responses. I have seen the epoxy mastic and think it will definitely be the best. My only concern is when I come to do a proper refurb, will the epoxy mastic come off!?

My other concern, is that I'm not painting on just bare metal, but also over the original powder coat. I'm looking at coating the central rails and outrigger jacking points. The outriggers will be Waxoiled again. Most of the powder coat on the central rails in intact, so I was going to degrease and paint, ensuring that I doubly cover the small areas where the powder coat has been compromised.

Reading about POR, it has poor adhesion if the surface isn't prepped 100%. It prefers bare metal, that has been treated. Epoxy mastic looks the best, but I again, it needs proper prep. I simply want to protect for a further 12 months at the most until I get around to the body-off. I will then spray galv and mastic. Until that point, I need a 12 month fix.

I was considering an enamel paint and Waxoil?

[fausTVR]

I use white Smoothrite for touching up.

[JWzed]

And me + Waxoil

[portzi]

deanrufleg said:

portzi said:

buy some por15, expensive but one of the best. Hammerite well, l will let you decide that one !!!!

mark

Sorry guys...
Way Off Topic..Mark,sent you 2 email through PH - It may have gone to your junk mail... or it may have been ignored...

As you were :-)

hi Dean will look through my emails on my phone. not ignoring you my friend

mark

[bobfather]

Chuffmeister said:

Reading about POR, it has poor adhesion if the surface isn't prepped 100%. It prefers bare metal, that has been treated. Epoxy mastic looks the best, but I again, it needs proper prep. I simply want to protect for a further 12 months at the most until I get around to the body-off. I will then spray galv and mastic. Until that point, I need a 12 month fix.

I was considering an enamel paint and Waxoil?

You are correct that Por-15 needs a well prepared surface for maximum adhesion however as you can see from the comments above the adhesive properties of Por-15 are magnitudes greater than 'normal' paints like Hammerite & enamel. Por-15 adheres less to untreated surfaces however that would likely still be superior to 'normal' paint adhesion, it's just less in terms of Por-15 adhesion capability.

If you paint on top of existing powder coat then the adhesive properties of the powder coat are applicable, not the properties of the new over-coated paint.

Hammerite will fracture when exposed to gravel or stone impacts and will easily flake around impact areas. Enamel, which is the same paint family as Hammerite but is softer and therefore more resilient to stone chipping.

I have a rebuilt and powder coated chassis and I have applied a layer of clear Waxoyl. This is prudent for any paint finish because it quickly reseals any damage to the paint. Waxoyl does however cause a problem too, the lower hanger tubes in the wheel arches are very close and in some areas in contact with the bodywork. Where this happens gravel will collect and movement between body and chassis will cause that gravel to grind away the paint layer. I regularly clear gravel from that area and reapply Waxoyl to maintain the chassis protection

[portzi]

brett84 said:

Yeah you can use cling film on the tin to make it last long.
All POR products are great, I did the exhausts tonight in POR20, when I do the chassis properly I'll do it in POR15

l also coated my manifolds with por 20 silver. 2 years on still on. some minimal flaking around hotter areas. l simply cleaned away with emery stick and airbrushed 3-4 new layers. por is so runny it doesn't need any thinners for my airbrush . l had my manifolds bead blasted before initial spraying.

mark

[PV7998]

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=125...

I used POR15 for a few small patches................results are in the pics.

Difficult to get off your hands though!