Coolent and Otter switch .
Discussion
I want get get my engine a little warmer ,do i need to change both the collant thermoststic stat and Otter switch
Options are Otter off 87 on 92 degrees C
off 88 on 95
Thermostat THERMOSTAT LOW TEMPERATURE 74 degrees
standard 82 degrees
If I go for the 82 thermostat do i need to have the higher temp otter switch ?
Options are Otter off 87 on 92 degrees C
off 88 on 95
Thermostat THERMOSTAT LOW TEMPERATURE 74 degrees
standard 82 degrees
If I go for the 82 thermostat do i need to have the higher temp otter switch ?
Pupp said:
Is your otter switch even still doing anything? The Emerald ECU is capable of controlling the fans and much more flexible so I'd be surprise if it's not configured
Correct, it is a poor show if your new ECU has been installed and it has not been wired in to control the fans! If nothing else it removes the need for another bit of wiring loom hanging around in the engine bay...I've compared the so-called larger orifice versions against that style and there's the square root of FA difference in cross section as far as I could see with both types in a pan of hot water and fully open. If you use a different housing like the JE one, then you've no choice as the large one won't fit.
phillpot said:
TVR tax and know it's right or save a few bob and take the chance?
Couldn't have put it better myself 
Daz
Look at it this way; paying 'TVR tax' is like helping some local mechanic / parts business to survive and feed their families.
More importantly, it helps to ensure they are there next time you want something that just can't be found cheaper elsewhere.
More importantly still; you (normally) can trust it will be the right part for the job.
Finally, and this will touch a cord with you; it's a tax that will not be funding housing for recent immigrants or asylum seekers, unlike the other tax that you (probably) pay
Last comment all in the spirit of the traditional PH roasting of course
Ahh yeah, the original question; I can see no reason why you should have to change the otter switch.
The thermostat controls the temperature at which water is circulated out of the engine to the radiator.
The otter switch controls the temperature at which the fans come on to cool the water in the radiator.
In any case, the otter switch already operates at a higher temperature than your new thermostat.
Fit the modwise two stage cooling kit and ignore the otter switch altogether.
http://www.djbeer.hostingbt.com/id27.html
http://www.djbeer.hostingbt.com/id27.html
Goaty Bill said:
Couldn't have put it better myself
Daz
Look at it this way; paying 'TVR tax' is like helping some local mechanic / parts business to survive and feed their families.
More importantly, it helps to ensure they are there next time you want something that just can't be found cheaper elsewhere.
More importantly still; you (normally) can trust it will be the right part for the job.
Finally, and this will touch a cord with you; it's a tax that will not be funding housing for recent immigrants or asylum seekers, unlike the other tax that you (probably) pay
Last comment all in the spirit of the traditional PH roasting of course
Ahh yeah, the original question; I can see no reason why you should have to change the otter switch.
The thermostat controls the temperature at which water is circulated out of the engine to the radiator.
The otter switch controls the temperature at which the fans come on to cool the water in the radiator.
In any case, the otter switch already operates at a higher temperature than your new thermostat.
Being totally standard all you need is a bag of dizzy caps ! so no TVR specialists required .Daz
Look at it this way; paying 'TVR tax' is like helping some local mechanic / parts business to survive and feed their families.
More importantly, it helps to ensure they are there next time you want something that just can't be found cheaper elsewhere.
More importantly still; you (normally) can trust it will be the right part for the job.
Finally, and this will touch a cord with you; it's a tax that will not be funding housing for recent immigrants or asylum seekers, unlike the other tax that you (probably) pay
Last comment all in the spirit of the traditional PH roasting of course
Ahh yeah, the original question; I can see no reason why you should have to change the otter switch.
The thermostat controls the temperature at which water is circulated out of the engine to the radiator.
The otter switch controls the temperature at which the fans come on to cool the water in the radiator.
In any case, the otter switch already operates at a higher temperature than your new thermostat.
Edited by SILICONEKID346HP on Friday 9th May 19:34
Not sure if this helps or not? I replaced the thermostat in mine for a 82 degree one from a TVR specialist (and it didn't arrive with a wider orifice or bleed hole). I replaced it because the original was opening far too early so the car wasn't warming up.
According to the temp gauge it runs at around 60-65 degrees, but by all accounts this is normal and the heater's nice and hot. I keep meaning to test the real temperature but haven't got round to it as it's been behaving fine i.e. it'll gradually rise if in traffic/stationary until the fans come on. As soon as I'm on the move it settles back down to 60-65 eventually.
Rich
According to the temp gauge it runs at around 60-65 degrees, but by all accounts this is normal and the heater's nice and hot. I keep meaning to test the real temperature but haven't got round to it as it's been behaving fine i.e. it'll gradually rise if in traffic/stationary until the fans come on. As soon as I'm on the move it settles back down to 60-65 eventually.
Rich
SILICONEKID346HP said:
Just started the car and let it warm up after say 10 minutes on idle the fans kick in ,the Otter cuts in at 93 so does this mean the stat is working .
I don`t understand why i don`t see anymore than 65 on cruise even when it`s warm .
If it is a genuine 65 then something is a miss and needs sorting. Chances are its the gauge not reading right. Hook up your laptop to the Emerald and see what temps the ecu is seeing, this will be accurate. And as Pup says get the Emerald the control the fans, you can set them to whatever you want then.I don`t understand why i don`t see anymore than 65 on cruise even when it`s warm .
carsy said:
If it is a genuine 65 then something is a miss and needs sorting. Chances are its the gauge not reading right. Hook up your laptop to the Emerald and see what temps the ecu is seeing, this will be accurate. And as Pup says get the Emerald the control the fans, you can set them to whatever you want then.
Jools did ask me but i decided just to keep it as it is . I like the idea of a simple otter switch . If it shows the correct temp on the Emerald via the laptop why can`t i have the correct temp at the gauge ?The gauge and ecu are using two different senders, in two different locations, to drive two (completely) different instruments. This will inevitably result in two different readings. Will either be 'accurate'? Doubt it
I will be running an SPA digital gauge driven off a sender next to the ecu one but still fully expect it will read differently to what the ecu sees.
I will be running an SPA digital gauge driven off a sender next to the ecu one but still fully expect it will read differently to what the ecu sees.
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