throttle cable adjustment?
Discussion
Hi chaps.
If anyone can help I'd appreciate it.
My throttle cable sets down in its natural resting position, then has about half an inch of further travel where the pedal sometimes flicks further up and can be a little frustrating. I wonder if it can be adjusted or a new one is required?
Cable has previously had white grease sprayed at it I think and even with one spring attached its still pretty stiff, so might just be time for a new one...
If anyone can help I'd appreciate it.
My throttle cable sets down in its natural resting position, then has about half an inch of further travel where the pedal sometimes flicks further up and can be a little frustrating. I wonder if it can be adjusted or a new one is required?
Cable has previously had white grease sprayed at it I think and even with one spring attached its still pretty stiff, so might just be time for a new one...
The pedal is a simple pivot arrangement and as such there is no cable adjustment at the pedal end, any adjustment is usually done at the throttle body end.
If the cable doesn't move freely it wouldn't hurt to change now before it breaks and leaves you stranded somewhere, you can always keep your existing cable as an emergency spare.
If the cable doesn't move freely it wouldn't hurt to change now before it breaks and leaves you stranded somewhere, you can always keep your existing cable as an emergency spare.
Can be oiled to some extent if stif by taking off at the plenum end holding vertical with some string and running some thin oil down the wire into the casing. When reconnecting adjust so there is about 1/4 inch of slack travel. Oiling this way certainly works for a stiff bonnet opening cable. Don't want that one breaking. 
There are 2 stops, that limit throttle butterfly travel:
A set screw from under the plenum that stops the a flat part just on the right of the butterfly (top rh side of the plenum) you can just see the top of if you pull the throttle.
On the linkage is a kind of collar that sets the full open.
I generally set them up when building plenum off the car, so that small feeler gauge (5thou) fits under butterfly closed (normally larger cars so less than rover advised gap IIRC) and ensure that throttle opens fully. At the same time I tend to wind the idle valve in fully then back it out 1 turn (its been cleaned & again its normally cammy higher spec motors).
Then when you put the plenum back on, connect the throttle cable first, its is possible after but much easier with the plenum 'free'. When fitted just do up the nearest nut on the cable adjuster to take the slack out and then the rear nut to lock (Have you done up both nuts OP???)
Thats about the process OTOMH.
A set screw from under the plenum that stops the a flat part just on the right of the butterfly (top rh side of the plenum) you can just see the top of if you pull the throttle.
On the linkage is a kind of collar that sets the full open.
I generally set them up when building plenum off the car, so that small feeler gauge (5thou) fits under butterfly closed (normally larger cars so less than rover advised gap IIRC) and ensure that throttle opens fully. At the same time I tend to wind the idle valve in fully then back it out 1 turn (its been cleaned & again its normally cammy higher spec motors).
Then when you put the plenum back on, connect the throttle cable first, its is possible after but much easier with the plenum 'free'. When fitted just do up the nearest nut on the cable adjuster to take the slack out and then the rear nut to lock (Have you done up both nuts OP???)
Thats about the process OTOMH.
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