Radiator tank - breakers?

[Duke Thrust]

I noticed yesterday that there's a drip from the bottom of the radiator tank (cylindrical alloy tank, blue cap). Took it off hoping it'd just be nipping up the hose clip to find that it's got a pin-hole leak in the bottom.

I might try a repair with some liquid metal type two pack (as I can't weld alloy) but for peace of mind I'd prefer to source a replacement.

Other than the Douglas Valley or Bell Hill, are there any other TVR breakers?

[caduceus]

If prepped properly first, chemical metal should be just fine. Don't waste your folding green on a new one with DV or BH.

[EGB]

Yes worth a try. Scrape clean and dry the hole inside and outside first. Use the epoxy like a rivet. Squeeze some in from outside and dab with a long pencil inside to form the rivet head. A headlight should help for this. Then a thick smear on the outside underneath also. Breakers could cost £100. Strewth !

[EGB]

caduceus said:

If prepped properly first, chemical metal should be just fine. Don't waste your folding green on a new one with DV or BH.

An old used expansion coolant pot from a breaker is probably nearly as bad. I paid DV a 100 for a window winder and I still had to do some welding. Renew the coolant with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze I corrosion inhibiter.

[JWzed]

If it was me I would take it to a local Radiator Repair Specialist. They should be able to do an aluminium weld repair followed by a pressure test. Shouldn't be too expensive and you would be sure of a thorough repair.

[phillpot]

Any Epoxy/chemical metal type product is only a temporary repair, imho.


find someone to weld it or maybe try this.... alluminiun brazing , if you have a blowlamp



Of course you may find that once some heat is put near it several more holes appear!!!

Edited by phillpot on Monday 2nd June 12:52

[Duke Thrust]

I'm going to try JB Weld first and if it doesn't hold I'll replace the tank/have it TIG'd