Routing new positive battery lead
Routing new positive battery lead
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Discussion

ButtonIt

Original Poster:

385 posts

208 months

Monday 2nd June 2014
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Whilst I'm trying to isolate my ongoing engine saga I will be performing little jobs here and there. One suggestion for the engine shizzle was the engine earth strap, so I've done that already with 4 guage (thicker than original) cable and lovely big lugs and it has helped a lot. Whilst buying the cable I bought 2 metres of good thick red cable as well.

Now, the original cable route is up and over the bell housing I think. Is there a better route to take with the new cable?? Anything else I need to take into account?

I'm also fitting some quick release battery clamps too, should make life a lot easier, especially if she's not going to be used for a while.

LongBaz383BHP

2,097 posts

247 months

Monday 2nd June 2014
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Earth it straight to the engine block

ButtonIt

Original Poster:

385 posts

208 months

Monday 2nd June 2014
quotequote all
Earth the positive straight to the block? I have a feeling you're taking the pee biggrin Hopefully!! wink

EGB

1,774 posts

187 months

Monday 2nd June 2014
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What is the copper core diameter of your new starter cables compared to the old T VR ones? Iv'e read that TVR fitted skinny resistant cables and over time caused hot start problems. Advice was to use thicker copper core cables.

It may help to sleeve the starter motor red positive cable as far as possible with some split larger diameter plastic as used for enclosing electric wires under the bonnet. It has a name I forget. This extra sleeving may help to prevent engine heat getting to the cable and reducing the amps and 'oomph' getting to the starter motor.

ButtonIt

Original Poster:

385 posts

208 months

Monday 2nd June 2014
quotequote all
It's 4AWG or 5.19mm and temp resistant to 105c. Multi strand and braided, oxygen free and much thicker than the original cable.

LongBaz383BHP

2,097 posts

247 months

Monday 2nd June 2014
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Sorry should have read the question and title.

ButtonIt

Original Poster:

385 posts

208 months

Monday 2nd June 2014
quotequote all
Hahaha, no probs biggrin imagine if I'd take your advice!!!

EGB

1,774 posts

187 months

Tuesday 3rd June 2014
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ButtonIt said:
It's 4AWG or 5.19mm and temp resistant to 105c. Multi strand and braided, oxygen free and much thicker than the original cable.
Thanks Chris. Will check mine now. Interestingly, since I fitted a new 2kw starter motor it has solved my hot start issues. Now spins my 5L engine like a demented Dervish. My old starter after 56K miles, had lost a lot of it's 'ooomph', a bit like me!

ButtonIt

Original Poster:

385 posts

208 months

Tuesday 3rd June 2014
quotequote all
Mine was quite slow beforehand, simply upping the grade of cable for the earth has made a HUGE difference.

I do still need to do the positive cable too, while I'm at it. I have some quick release battery clamps to fit, which should also make life a little easier.

Colin RedGriff

2,541 posts

287 months

Tuesday 3rd June 2014
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Don't know if there is a better route I just followed the old one.

When I did mine I tied some bellwire to the starter motor end and then pulled it back into the cabin. To feed the new one in I connected the new cable to the bell wire under the car and pulled it through into the cabin. Before that I tried to feed it from inside the car but I could not get it very far past the grommet in the side of the footwell.

I put ring terminals on both ends before feeding it and used a terminal clamp with a post on it

ButtonIt

Original Poster:

385 posts

208 months

Tuesday 3rd June 2014
quotequote all
Good idea, will follow that method then. Just wanted to be sure, somebody on here always finds a way of doing something better than the factory guys in the end. 20+ years of owners own research and development biggrin