Lamda sensors!!
Discussion
Hi all, I have had various issues over the last few months and I am slowly getting to the bottom of it!
Air flow meters, Plug extenders, HT leads, plugs then coolant leaks.... These TVR's really keep you busy.
Using Rovergauge tonight I have found an issue with the left hand bank Lamda, it is reading -100% on the short term and 0% on the long, (it may be the other way round) and have 0 volts when testing across the white and black wires, (I believe that 1-1.2 volts should be present)
I was wondering if anyone had one spare that I could have for beer tokens please so as to verify rather than buy brand new and still have the same fault.
Otherwise she is running really well.
Many thanks in advance
Jamie
Air flow meters, Plug extenders, HT leads, plugs then coolant leaks.... These TVR's really keep you busy.
Using Rovergauge tonight I have found an issue with the left hand bank Lamda, it is reading -100% on the short term and 0% on the long, (it may be the other way round) and have 0 volts when testing across the white and black wires, (I believe that 1-1.2 volts should be present)
I was wondering if anyone had one spare that I could have for beer tokens please so as to verify rather than buy brand new and still have the same fault.
Otherwise she is running really well.
Many thanks in advance
Jamie
Hi - had similar issues myself - if it is lambda & you do buy a new one check length as many TVR aftermarket units are longer & not easily fitted with stnd split socket.
Let me know who you purchased the plug extenders from as no one seems to have a supply of these.
Also sounds obvious but do check plugs are fully seated as a loose one can give poor compression & slight misfire characteritics & they can work loose esp if using copper slip. Also noticed thicker plug leads ie 10mm etc tend to disconnect easier as they are stiffer & easily dislodged without being obvious.
Also be interested to hear about your airflow meter & whether it had failed or was intermittent & perhaps should be a service item - mine still original & I do wonder sometimes if its the cause of some running issues recently experienced?
Let me know who you purchased the plug extenders from as no one seems to have a supply of these.
Also sounds obvious but do check plugs are fully seated as a loose one can give poor compression & slight misfire characteritics & they can work loose esp if using copper slip. Also noticed thicker plug leads ie 10mm etc tend to disconnect easier as they are stiffer & easily dislodged without being obvious.
Also be interested to hear about your airflow meter & whether it had failed or was intermittent & perhaps should be a service item - mine still original & I do wonder sometimes if its the cause of some running issues recently experienced?
Have swapped the extenders for Heat socks and double silicone resistive leads, seem to handling the heat so far and it is definitely up on power from the old units. With regards to plugs I have had the plugs 'unseat' themselves before and are tight, I decided to go for the standard B7ECS plug as did not want to throw too many variables into the mix. I just want her running proper then I can go forwards from there.
The socks I got from fleabay, and for the £20 they cost it is worth the experiment. as I say just removing the extenders, I am up on performance and I never noticed a mis-fire on hard acceleration.
Hopefully Bretts kind loan will sort the last issue out
When the AFM fault reared its head, it was a weird symptom, it would run perfectly until it reached 3500rpm then it was like hitting a rev limiter. It did it when stationary and also in every gear. Rover gauge readings at idle were spot on and stupidly I didn't check at high revs. Eventually I figured it out that at high revs the AFM could not keep up and was killing the fuelling. Tried a friends 3Am from his Jag and it was cured, got a replacement and AFM figures now fine.
The socks I got from fleabay, and for the £20 they cost it is worth the experiment. as I say just removing the extenders, I am up on performance and I never noticed a mis-fire on hard acceleration.
Hopefully Bretts kind loan will sort the last issue out

When the AFM fault reared its head, it was a weird symptom, it would run perfectly until it reached 3500rpm then it was like hitting a rev limiter. It did it when stationary and also in every gear. Rover gauge readings at idle were spot on and stupidly I didn't check at high revs. Eventually I figured it out that at high revs the AFM could not keep up and was killing the fuelling. Tried a friends 3Am from his Jag and it was cured, got a replacement and AFM figures now fine.
Edited by jamienshelly on Wednesday 18th June 14:42
Just an update and hopefully the end of the excessive fuelling on the left bank,
Rovergauge was telling me that the left hand lambda was at 100% and right was cycling as normal, Brett 84 has kindly lent me a sensor and after finding that my set of 8 lambda probe removal sockets are useless for TVR's (Ahhhh) I made one from a deep 17mm socket, swapped the sensor and all the readings stayed the same, swapped the right hand bank sensor and still the same.
So I decided to check the plugs, All black and sooty on the left and clean as a whistle on the right.
Started to check the wiring on the loom after working out the many colours that change from start to finish (helps being colour blind), And found a high resistance on the heater wiring from the relay, eventually found the middle plug under the plenum and one of the terminals have been pulled into the plug.
I have to rebuild everything and test with rovergauge but I think that I have got to the bottom of it
many thanks to all those that have posted in other fuelling posts as I have used these to work out and isolate my problem.
Brett your sensor will be in the post this week
thanks for the loan
Jamie
Rovergauge was telling me that the left hand lambda was at 100% and right was cycling as normal, Brett 84 has kindly lent me a sensor and after finding that my set of 8 lambda probe removal sockets are useless for TVR's (Ahhhh) I made one from a deep 17mm socket, swapped the sensor and all the readings stayed the same, swapped the right hand bank sensor and still the same.
So I decided to check the plugs, All black and sooty on the left and clean as a whistle on the right.
Started to check the wiring on the loom after working out the many colours that change from start to finish (helps being colour blind), And found a high resistance on the heater wiring from the relay, eventually found the middle plug under the plenum and one of the terminals have been pulled into the plug.
I have to rebuild everything and test with rovergauge but I think that I have got to the bottom of it
many thanks to all those that have posted in other fuelling posts as I have used these to work out and isolate my problem.
Brett your sensor will be in the post this week
thanks for the loan
Jamie
A bit of a double edged sword, Now I have repaired the loom, I have just run rovergauge and the short term trim is cycling at around -30% on both banks, the long term is solid at -100% on both. the idle is very stable and the smell of running rich has gone. So does this now mean its running over lean?
Thanks in advance
jamie
Thanks in advance
jamie
Sorry you missed out on Last weekend's adventures, thanks for the text by the way - at least it seems you are making positive progress.
why not give her a quick run check for misfires etc and then pull a couple of plugs and see what colour they are, this should give you a basic indication between black and sooty, chocolatey brown or white.
Regards
Paul.
why not give her a quick run check for misfires etc and then pull a couple of plugs and see what colour they are, this should give you a basic indication between black and sooty, chocolatey brown or white.
Regards
Paul.
Cheers Paul,
The plugs were as black as your hat before, and I just couldn't figure the fault out, now the 'excess fuel' mode has gone but as I say the long term trim is at -100%, It may well be the AFM that I got recently, but it is idling better and the fuel gauge didn't move in the 15 minutes I had her running, so there is some good news.
Glad Sunday went well, and I did consider chancing it, but it would have been cheaper to hire a TVR for the day than to put fuel in it...
The plugs were as black as your hat before, and I just couldn't figure the fault out, now the 'excess fuel' mode has gone but as I say the long term trim is at -100%, It may well be the AFM that I got recently, but it is idling better and the fuel gauge didn't move in the 15 minutes I had her running, so there is some good news.
Glad Sunday went well, and I did consider chancing it, but it would have been cheaper to hire a TVR for the day than to put fuel in it...
Jamie
If it's any consolation, Roverguage gives exactly the same readings on mine. Short term it's cycles continuously, whereas the long term trim is solid at -100%. I went down to Austec who put it on their code reader and said they couldn't see a problem with it? There is a thread somewhere where Blitz has given a few potential solutions.
If it's any consolation, Roverguage gives exactly the same readings on mine. Short term it's cycles continuously, whereas the long term trim is solid at -100%. I went down to Austec who put it on their code reader and said they couldn't see a problem with it? There is a thread somewhere where Blitz has given a few potential solutions.
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