ARP Flywheel Bolts Required Socket Size

[mattrosersv]

Hi All,

My flywheel is secured with ARP bolts. Anyone know what size socket I require to remove? Is it likely to be an imperial size.

Thanks,

Matt

[neal1980]

See nice proper bolts in there

I remember I had to find a thin wall socket...from memory (and a bad one at that)

What are you up too ??

[spend]

5/8" 12point socket

[Sardonicus]

Or 16mm is a good equivalent but strictly speaking Spends right ARP for the RV8 are A/F Imperial

[mattrosersv]

The clutch had really had it - worn through to the rivets.

The flywheel itself shows signs of blueing so I am going to replace it for when I get around to fixing my gearbox along with a mcloed clutch of course. My plan was to either use my old one off of my old 500 motor, or buy a new one. Either way I will get it balanced up the same as the outgoing one.

Out of interest and slightly off topic, is it possible to remove the gearbox and bellhousing as one? I was sure I had done this before but when I pulled the box off this time I could not get them both through the chassis rails. Just curious really. I am positive I have managed it before, but ended up separating them this time. I get confused about what I have done with the Cerb and Chimaera as my memory is ste.

I am currently torn between sending the box off to fix, or attempting a DIY. It does not look all that complicated and I like a challenge.....

Matt

[Sardonicus]

mattrosersv said:

The clutch had really had it - worn through to the rivets.

The flywheel itself shows signs of blueing so I am going to replace it for when I get around to fixing my gearbox along with a mcloed clutch of course. My plan was to either use my old one off of my old 500 motor, or buy a new one. Either way I will get it balanced up the same as the outgoing one.

Out of interest and slightly off topic, is it possible to remove the gearbox and bellhousing as one? I was sure I had done this before but when I pulled the box off this time I could not get them both through the chassis rails. Just curious really. I am positive I have managed it before, but ended up separating them this time. I get confused about what I have done with the Cerb and Chimaera as my memory is ste.

I am currently torn between sending the box off to fix, or attempting a DIY. It does not look all that complicated and I like a challenge.....

Matt

I always unbolt the box from the b/housing T5 to reduce bulk but I know that Phazed/Peter as removed the box in one big lump before because we had this discussion already I cant argue with that especially seeing he has removed more Chimaera engines and gearboxes than I have

[mattrosersv]

I tried for quite a while to get them out as one thinking I have done this before no problem, but no matter which way I twisted it it was no go. I am annoyed I tried for so long (especially as it was heavy and knackering) as it took we all of 10 mins to remove the box to bellhousing bolts.

Anyway thanks for the the info on the socket size All. I guess I should also ask what torque I should do them up to. Am I looking at getting special lube and a higher torque.... or do I just stick with standard torque? Not used ARP before.

[Hoofa]

Pretty sure I torques mine to spec and also put a bit of blue loctite on as well

[Sardonicus]

mattrosersv said:

I tried for quite a while to get them out as one thinking I have done this before no problem, but no matter which way I twisted it it was no go. I am annoyed I tried for so long (especially as it was heavy and knackering) as it took we all of 10 mins to remove the box to bellhousing bolts.

Anyway thanks for the the info on the socket size All. I guess I should also ask what torque I should do them up to. Am I looking at getting special lube and a higher torque.... or do I just stick with standard torque? Not used ARP before.

I would stick to using what ARP recommends which is lube under the bolt heads (no washers) and a non hard setting thread lock Loctite 242 or similar to 85ftlbs in a criss cross pattern

[spend]

I do light oil dropped onto the bolt shoulder and run round the flange ~ holding bolt upside down & rotating in fingers, then leave them sat upright till ready to assemble. On assembly a drop of thread lock on the first couple of threads, spin them in, torque to 30 ftlb (just to get all shoulders engaged) then upto 60ftlb and finally I just take them to 65ftlb. The only higher figures I've seen are for when they are installed in SBC chevy engines (same bolts BTW), so I've just added an extra 5ftlb as the threads are cut a bit smoother to equalize the torque vs clamping with original bolts (both use thread lock so little difference in ease of turning vs clamping is my take on the assembly).

[mattrosersv]

Cheers guys much appreciated.

Matt