Half Way Through Manifold Removal!
Discussion
Right guys, took delivery of my assortment of 14mm spanners today so went out in garage to start the horrible task of removing the NS exhaust manifold to do the gasket.
I've got all the top ones quite easily ans also the lower front one, but have now come in for the night as I think I will definately have to pull the car out on drive and raise it, to get the other lower 3 from underneath.
I don't mind waiting till the weekend and doing this, but was just thinking and I am sure I have read other posts from members that have got all of them from the top? Does anybody have any info to show this is possible?
I have removed the 90 degree intake pipe and all plug leads + extenders to give good access from the top now.
any help will be appreciated as always, cheers.
I've got all the top ones quite easily ans also the lower front one, but have now come in for the night as I think I will definately have to pull the car out on drive and raise it, to get the other lower 3 from underneath.
I don't mind waiting till the weekend and doing this, but was just thinking and I am sure I have read other posts from members that have got all of them from the top? Does anybody have any info to show this is possible?
I have removed the 90 degree intake pipe and all plug leads + extenders to give good access from the top now.
any help will be appreciated as always, cheers.
I think you have to do it from below?
I'm pretty sure you'll need to replace them from below!
When I did mine I'd removed the exhaust, I also feel it's better to undue the lower ones first. Whatever way you do it it's a a slow business, prepare two hours each manifold,it can take that long! If you are doing the O/S you will need to remove the starter motor, two bolts and wiring, this gives access to the rear lower bolt.
I can't see how you can do it from above only. Hope that helps.
I'm pretty sure you'll need to replace them from below!
When I did mine I'd removed the exhaust, I also feel it's better to undue the lower ones first. Whatever way you do it it's a a slow business, prepare two hours each manifold,it can take that long! If you are doing the O/S you will need to remove the starter motor, two bolts and wiring, this gives access to the rear lower bolt.
I can't see how you can do it from above only. Hope that helps.
Classichim said:
I think you have to do it from below?
I'm pretty sure you'll need to replace them from below!
When I did mine I'd removed the exhaust, I also feel it's better to undue the lower ones first. Whatever way you do it it's a a slow business, prepare two hours each manifold,it can take that long! If you are doing the O/S you will need to remove the starter motor, two bolts and wiring, this gives access to the rear lower bolt.
I can't see how you can do it from above only. Hope that helps.
That's what I think to be honest, I just cant see how it's possible, I have just about every combo of 14mm socket and spanners you can buy and I can't seem to manage it.I'm pretty sure you'll need to replace them from below!
When I did mine I'd removed the exhaust, I also feel it's better to undue the lower ones first. Whatever way you do it it's a a slow business, prepare two hours each manifold,it can take that long! If you are doing the O/S you will need to remove the starter motor, two bolts and wiring, this gives access to the rear lower bolt.
I can't see how you can do it from above only. Hope that helps.
It's a PIA job. Make sure you disconnect the battery first. It's really easy to drop a spanner when working on the off side manifold onto the live feed of the starter motor.
There are a lot of different methods. I use a short spanner with a long piece of string attached to it. I can the squeeze my hand down the manifold to access some of the lower bolts on the off-side and all of them on the near-side (between 3&5 and 4&6) . The string helps me position the spanner, but also facilitates quick retrieval when I drop it (and you will drop it!). Getting them off the first time is the hardest. You won't be able to remove the lower nuts under 4 and 3 completely as the manifold fouls removal. It a case of moving the manifold away from the head as you remove the bolt.
However, the key thing is making life easier for yourself when you need to take them off in the future and it is advisable to slot the lower bolt holes of the manifold with an angle grinder. You can then use studs with the nuts loosely fitted and slot the manifolds back and the tightening them up. For the top bolt holes, just use standard stainless bolts, which are easily removed. I use spring washers on all nuts and bolts and they have stayed nice and tight.
There are a lot of different methods. I use a short spanner with a long piece of string attached to it. I can the squeeze my hand down the manifold to access some of the lower bolts on the off-side and all of them on the near-side (between 3&5 and 4&6) . The string helps me position the spanner, but also facilitates quick retrieval when I drop it (and you will drop it!). Getting them off the first time is the hardest. You won't be able to remove the lower nuts under 4 and 3 completely as the manifold fouls removal. It a case of moving the manifold away from the head as you remove the bolt.
However, the key thing is making life easier for yourself when you need to take them off in the future and it is advisable to slot the lower bolt holes of the manifold with an angle grinder. You can then use studs with the nuts loosely fitted and slot the manifolds back and the tightening them up. For the top bolt holes, just use standard stainless bolts, which are easily removed. I use spring washers on all nuts and bolts and they have stayed nice and tight.
I cut a couple of spanners and welded them at funny angles so I could get to the back ones. You can borrow then if you want. PM me your address and ill post them tomorrow. After tomorrow I wont be able to post them till next week so be quick if you want to borrow them.
For re assembly slot the lower holes on the manifold, there are some pictures on a thread here somewhere, so much easier to put the manifold on with the lower bolts on place.
For re assembly slot the lower holes on the manifold, there are some pictures on a thread here somewhere, so much easier to put the manifold on with the lower bolts on place.
Don't be totally surprised if some bolts just will not come out.
I was glad mine were coming off to have the manifolds welded at the 4>1 unions, as I had a proper man, with all the right tools, doing it.
He sheared one of the first bolts, so took the heads off to do the rest.....and ended up cutting/grinding 6 more bolts off. He was shocked. I was relieved t wasn't me just being incompetent.
Good luck
I was glad mine were coming off to have the manifolds welded at the 4>1 unions, as I had a proper man, with all the right tools, doing it.
He sheared one of the first bolts, so took the heads off to do the rest.....and ended up cutting/grinding 6 more bolts off. He was shocked. I was relieved t wasn't me just being incompetent.
Good luck
sapper said:
I cut a couple of spanners and welded them at funny angles so I could get to the back ones. You can borrow then if you want. PM me your address and ill post them tomorrow. After tomorrow I wont be able to post them till next week so be quick if you want to borrow them.
For re assembly slot the lower holes on the manifold, there are some pictures on a thread here somewhere, so much easier to put the manifold on with the lower bolts on place.
YHM and thanks for the kind offer.For re assembly slot the lower holes on the manifold, there are some pictures on a thread here somewhere, so much easier to put the manifold on with the lower bolts on place.
I had to get underneath to get to mine Matt, and a general assortment of spanners, didn't get any welded but can imagine it would possibly make it a bit easier, consider slotting the bottom ones for future ease ( I didn't but suspect I will wish I had) get plenty of plasters for your knuckles too....
Rugbyfester said:
I had to get underneath to get to mine Matt, and a general assortment of spanners, didn't get any welded but can imagine it would possibly make it a bit easier, consider slotting the bottom ones for future ease ( I didn't but suspect I will wish I had) get plenty of plasters for your knuckles too....
Haha, cheers Paul, got plenty in already! I have to say thanks to Mick (sapper on here) for kindly posting me some modified spanners today, so once I receive I will crack on with it.For me this is absolutely what this forum is all about, like minded car lovers helping each other out with advice or lending kit etc, absolutely spot on really and also a big part of TVR ownership really.
Cheers.
mattgtd said:
Haha, cheers Paul, got plenty in already! I have to say thanks to Mick (sapper on here) for kindly posting me some modified spanners today, so once I receive I will crack on with it.
For me this is absolutely what this forum is all about, like minded car lovers helping each other out with advice or lending kit etc, absolutely spot on really and also a big part of TVR ownership really.
Cheers.
Matt, sorry mate I missed the post today, didn't finish work till late, spanners are in the post tomorrow.For me this is absolutely what this forum is all about, like minded car lovers helping each other out with advice or lending kit etc, absolutely spot on really and also a big part of TVR ownership really.
Cheers.
Do it! I use studs on the bottom and bolts on the top. Once the bolts are off, all you have to do is loosen the lower nuts and you can slide it upwards. Replacing them is the same, but on the bottom studs position your nuts and spring washers onto the end of the studs first, then carefully slot the manifold back on. It will take you a few attempts. The benefit of studs on the lower bolt holes is that the nuts are slightly smaller, so aren't fouled by the manifold when you go to tighten them.
I recommend you get new nuts, studs and spring washers. I've used these and the manifolds haven't come loose. Some recommend ARP bolts. Not tried them myself, but reviews are mixed on both methods!
I recommend you get new nuts, studs and spring washers. I've used these and the manifolds haven't come loose. Some recommend ARP bolts. Not tried them myself, but reviews are mixed on both methods!
phazed said:
I met a mechanic once who said that he could do them all from above and not remove the starter motor, he's talking bollix
In standard form, I should imagine that would be extremely difficult. However, if they're slotted, it is possible. I removed my nearside manifold from the top. I removed all bar two bolts on the offside from the top. The heater rails fouled access, so I had to tackle the remaining two from underneath.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff