Radiator removal - bonnet off ?
Radiator removal - bonnet off ?
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Discussion

taylormj4

Original Poster:

1,635 posts

296 months

Friday 4th July 2014
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Hi everyone,
Radiator has a small leak that is blowing steam a little. It's the car's second radiator. It lasted around 6 or 7 years, which isn't bad but not that great either. Makes me wonder if the radiator is under mechanical stress, which is causing the core to pull out of the ends or fracture. So I'm going to remove and refit myself this time to make sure the mounts are good etc. Then get the rad repaired.

SH's book says the bonnet needs to come off. Is that really true or can you get the rad out without removing the bonnet ?

I found a step by step rad removal thread on PH and it didn't mention anything about bonnet removal.

phazed

22,491 posts

234 months

Friday 4th July 2014
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No need to remove bonnet although two pairs of hands are advisable so you don't scratch the paintwork.

phillpot

17,511 posts

213 months

Friday 4th July 2014
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As above, had the rad out of mine when I did a 3" body lift but pretty sure the bonnet never came off.

Can be done on your own, plenty of old blankets or towels to protect wings wink

stumpage

2,209 posts

256 months

Friday 4th July 2014
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Doesn't have to but for the sake of 2 bolts and an extra pair of hand it makes the job much easier.

TJC46

2,198 posts

236 months

Friday 4th July 2014
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phazed said:
No need to remove bonnet although two pairs of hands are advisable so you don't scratch the paintwork.
This yes The bonnet will go almost vertical just tie it up on one of the garage roof beams, or similar. This will give you a lot more room to work.

pwd95

8,458 posts

268 months

Friday 4th July 2014
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Did mine recently single handed. Quite straight forward really. yes

JimTC

272 posts

247 months

Friday 4th July 2014
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taylormj4 said:
Hi everyone,
Makes me wonder if the radiator is under mechanical stress, which is causing the core to pull out of the ends or fracture.
When I had my radiator replaced a couple of years ago by a respected TVR specialist they advised that in many cases radiators are stressed when fitted, or re-fitted due to a twisting force caused by the body not being completely true all fixing holes being slightly misaligned. May need to enlarge the fixing holes or add packing to ensure no stress induced. Didn't see it first hand but it sounds plausible..

taylormj4

Original Poster:

1,635 posts

296 months

Friday 4th July 2014
quotequote all
JimTC said:
When I had my radiator replaced a couple of years ago by a respected TVR specialist they advised that in many cases radiators are stressed when fitted, or re-fitted due to a twisting force caused by the body not being completely true all fixing holes being slightly misaligned. May need to enlarge the fixing holes or add packing to ensure no stress induced. Didn't see it first hand but it sounds plausible..
This is what I was thinking yes. It will be interesting to see how the rad naturally wants to sit compared to the mounts. I am expecting some modification may be necessary. However, if the forces are coming from the body flexing under 'normal' whistle driving conditions then there may be little that can be done to avoid it.

taylormj4

Original Poster:

1,635 posts

296 months

Friday 4th July 2014
quotequote all
stumpage said:
Doesn't have to but for the sake of 2 bolts and an extra pair of hand it makes the job much easier.
Reason for not wanting to try is that teh bolts seem a bit stiff and I have heard that the captive nuts can crack out of the bodywork, which would be a real PITA to fix. Plus where do you store a TVR bonnet where it isn't going to get damaged. I don't have a large workshop unfortunately.

So if any chance of doing it without removing the bonnet, that sounds good to me.