Steering rack gushing
Steering rack gushing
Author
Discussion

taylormj4

Original Poster:

1,635 posts

295 months

Friday 10th December 2004
quotequote all
Hi all,
My 450 has just started leaving large pools of fluid on the drive. Never has leaked before. Typical too, it started the day after it returned from a service with Austec!
Inspection finds it to be coming from around the input shaft of the steering rack. I'm having to top up once a week.

I am told new ones seem are around 700 pounds, recons for 300.

I hoped I could just replace a seal.
Austec say they don't touch these but send them away. Has anyone DIY repaired these at home or is it a lost cause and I have to cough up the cash?

Matt

Corin Denton

8,762 posts

297 months

Friday 10th December 2004
quotequote all
Had the exact same thing happen on my last Chimaera. The rack is a bespoke TVR item, it costs £750. I had mine reconditioned at a cost of £140 inc boots.

Easy to fit and remove but a bit of a sod to get through the chassis!

taylormj4

Original Poster:

1,635 posts

295 months

Friday 10th December 2004
quotequote all
Have just spoken to Neil at Penninsula.
Apparently, this leak can be fixed with a replacement seal for GBP 8 ! That sounds much more acceptable but probably rather knuckle-scraping.

Has anyone replaced this seal, any hints / tips chaps?

Matt

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

306 months

Saturday 11th December 2004
quotequote all
POWER STEERING...IMPORTANT ON A CHIM?

Stop sniggering at the back!

>> Edited by victormeldrew on Saturday 11th December 00:51

The Surveyor

7,624 posts

266 months

Monday 17th January 2005
quotequote all
I have been advised that my PAS rack needs a new in-put shaft oil seal, or may need refurbishing to cure the persistant leak for this area.

The question is whether the seal can be replaced in-situ, or does the rack have to come out. If the rack has to come out for them both, then the tracking will need resetting etc, new fluid, time off the road etc, and it would be prudent to just have the rack refurbished. If i can do just the seal in-situ, then that sounds like a strong candidate for 'first option'.

Any advise would be appreciated

Paul

nztrev

785 posts

265 months

Monday 17th January 2005
quotequote all
Taking out mine today,you can undo at the rack end next to the balljoint inside the gaiter boot without adjusting the tie rod.

The Surveyor

7,624 posts

266 months

Monday 17th January 2005
quotequote all
Thanks Paul

Will have a look at that over the next few days.

Would still be interested in the feasibility of replaceing the in-put shaft seal in-situ?

Paul

nztrev

785 posts

265 months

Monday 17th January 2005
quotequote all
I'm sure it will be easier do with it out,you'll only have to drain and disconnect the two pipes.
Although without a front end at the mo access is'nt a problem!!

taylormj4

Original Poster:

1,635 posts

295 months

Tuesday 18th January 2005
quotequote all
The Surveyor said:
Thanks Paul

Will have a look at that over the next few days.

Would still be interested in the feasibility of replaceing the in-put shaft seal in-situ?

Paul


Paul,
I did manage to replace the seal in-situ. It's not easy though. Very hard to drive the new seal in straight due to proximity to the chassis etc.
I used a G-clamp and a socket first and then had to tap the rest in using a socket with extension bar and hammering on the end of the extension bar.

Matt

The Surveyor

7,624 posts

266 months

Wednesday 19th January 2005
quotequote all
Matt

Not going to have time to look at this until the weekend, will have a review then as to the feasibility of doing it in-situ.

Not using the car in this weather so there is no urgency and the oil on the chassis rails can only help keep the chassis rust-free.

Paul

taylormj4

Original Poster:

1,635 posts

295 months

Thursday 20th January 2005
quotequote all
Ok,
Watch the level in the reservoir though. Don't run the engine / steering pump with low fluid.

I expect you knew that though.

Matt