What a t*at

[caduceus]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 31 January 2015 at 15:56

[Chuffmeister]

I think the cables from the positive are the live feed (fat red cable), which goes directly to the starter and the alternator live (thinner brown cable). I would check that you haven't damaged the 80a fuse in the footwell, shorted or broken the live cables etc. Does it try and turn over when you turn the ignition on?

[QBee]

You do know that the 80 amp fuse is in the footwell spaghetti , don't you? And not on the fuse board? It's in a back holder, which may itself be wrapped in tape.

[Chuffmeister]

Can you go through the process step by step?

So, you put the key in the ignition and turn, do the battery and oil pressure light illuminate?
If so, press they key fob on the alarm whilst in this state and you should hear the fuel pump prime... Does it happen? Is the immobilized dis-arming? Is their power? Have you checked the relays in the loom in the footwell?

I think we'll be in a better position to help diagnose the problem, if we can be specific about the symptoms.

[Chuffmeister]

And that looks like your 80A fuse... And your hand possibly... In your footwell!!!???

[loud430]

mine totally cut out one night, no sign of life, no alarm, nothing. turned out to be that 80 amp fuse, it had corroded inside the holder, 1 new fuse & holder later & ive not had any problems since. mine is an early car though.

[QBee]

loud430 said:

mine totally cut out one night, no sign of life, no alarm, nothing. turned out to be that 80 amp fuse, it had corroded inside the holder, 1 new fuse & holder later & ive not had any problems since. mine is an early car though.

Mine's a later car, same fuse, same place, same result if you pull it out.....not a lot works.

[QBee]

I have never ever used the manual immobiliser dongle - I guess it is for if the battery in the key is dead.?

[QBee]

The only test I can do is pull them out one at a time and push them back in again,in case they have come loose or the terminals are corroded.

[brett84]

caduceus said:

By the way - How do you 'check' relays? Sorry, I'm a numpty when it comes to electronics..

swap test with a known working one, or sometimes you can hear or feel them click on

[ianwayne]

caduceus said:

So what do you need the immobiliser key for then? In case the fob stops working I assume? Think I might try and pair up a spare fob I had from my Cerbera days. It was never paired to it and is new.

As you say, it's for if the immobiliser fob control fails. You can use the push-in key on the steering column to bypass it and start the car, but the alarm will sound and indicators flash as you are driving the car according to my manual, so it is only really to be used as an emergency measure if the car HAS to be moved.

[zed4]

caduceus said:

Ooops

I forgot to tie wrap the lambda sensor cable....

what's the significance of this post? When my car spluttered and cut out and would t restart, it was because the lambda sensor wire had shorted against the engine. Turns out the lambda sensor heaters are supplied by the same fuse as the fuel pump fuse/relay so it was shorting out both circuits.