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bearmurray

Original Poster:

12 posts

262 months

Thursday 16th December 2004
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Been happily hooning around in my 98 4.0 Chimaera for the past 2 weeks now, but today after driving to and from work it cut out twice in car park at flat and work.

Normally when it is cold on start up it is a bit rough, but nothing untoward. It is fine at traffic lights and stop starts along the way.

Obviously I am just a bit worried (being a TVR novice) that either something electrical is about to go or the plugs/points need looking at. It has done 52,000 miles and has a FSH, but is due a full service soon.

My other slight concern (sorry) is that the steering is making a very slight grating noise at full lock at low speeds, Is this normal?

Otherwise I am a happy man!!

Nuggs

4,640 posts

263 months

Thursday 16th December 2004
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Hi Bear

Can't help with the more important question about the engine cutting out (someone will doubtless be along shortly).

On the steering front - am I correct in thinking you have PAS? If so, on full lock the sound you're hearing may well be the PAS pump and therefore nothing to worry about (unless you find that you're p!ssing steering fluid all over the place).

However, you ought to check that the tyres aren't rubbing in the wheelarches at full lock. Have you got standard size wheels/tyres fitted?

seajayare

24 posts

271 months

Thursday 16th December 2004
quotequote all
mine started to cut out randomly. turned out to be a dodgy connection to the ECU. The only clue was a faint glimmer of the ECU warning light. Car would run perfectly and then just cut out dead.

Nuggs

4,640 posts

263 months

Thursday 16th December 2004
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I think Cosmoschick had something similar with Trev - dodgy Lambda sensors IIRC.

Cosmos, you're needed!

cosmoschick

7,977 posts

278 months

Thursday 16th December 2004
quotequote all
There's no need to shout

seajayare said:
The only clue was a faint glimmer of the ECU warning light.


ECU warning light? That's high tech!

When I had a similar problem with my Chim, it used to momentarily lose power before it cut out. It would restart as if there was nothing wrong. It was an intermittent problem but sod's law dictated it would mostly happen in the fast lane of a motorway busy roundabouts and twisty country lanes with blind bends

The HT leads were replaced, a reconditioned airflow meter was fitted and a new ECU. But the problem remained and to make matters worse, it started to cough and splutter.

It was booked into Austec for a proper diagnostic evaluation. They discovered that the ECU had been incorrectly chipped - poor old Trev thought he was an automatic Range Rover and both Lambda sensors were found to be faulty and replaced.

So far so good...

PS: As a result, I lost my confidence in driving and it took a while to get it back again

bearmurray

Original Poster:

12 posts

262 months

Thursday 16th December 2004
quotequote all
Cheers folks!

Will let you know how things pan out, If
it does it again will book it to either HL Gorner or Chris Neil for diagnostics. Yep got PAS - thought that noise was normal(not pissing everywhere). Got the stock rims on as well, however in the new year considering 17" jobbies.

Happy festivities trevorites!

Bear

GRynners

138 posts

261 months

Thursday 16th December 2004
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Where abouts in the NWest are you based bearmurray? Would be good to catch up with another newbie on the scene at some point. Haven't managed to take the plunge yet, though Christopher Neil still have a nice 4.5 Chim in the window which we tried out - a bit too pricey for my liking though!

Have signed up to TVRCC now though, so may well attend a local meet in the near future - even if Chimless!

over_the_hill

3,330 posts

275 months

Friday 17th December 2004
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The power steering may not be gushing fluid out but you
may well have the infamous PAS hose leak. Check the reservoir - the black plastic thing that's about the same size as a coffee mug above
the engine block - to see what the fluid level is.
They can develop a slow leak so it only comes out a few drips at a time and unless you park in exactly the same place, there may not be any visible signs on the floor. I think the hose is TVR specific (so needs to be ordered) but it may be less problematic to get some fluid and top up once a month, although it should of course be fixed at some point.

over_the_hill

3,330 posts

275 months

Friday 17th December 2004
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For the cutting out problem can I suggest the old favourite - the Stepper Motor. If it is dirty and not closing off properly it may be letting too much air through and causing the engine to stall. Once warm the engine may be better able to cope with this.

nawarne

3,178 posts

289 months

Friday 17th December 2004
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Bearmurray,
I would also check the 2 fuel pump/ignition relays. These are the two 5-pin Bosch jobbies (pays to get Bosch rather than pattern). The giveaway is looking at the dash when it dies and checking the IGN light - if it comes on as it dies, then I would suspect the primary relay - if the fuel pump is not whirring, then its the secondary/pump relay. My thoughts, anyway!

I think on the Chim the relay tower is under the dash (correct me if I'm wrong) -

PeterC

386 posts

298 months

Friday 17th December 2004
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Regarding the grating noise on full lock, I think that you may be missing the obvious.

If you check the inside edge of both wheel rims I think you will probably find that at least one of them is scored and marked from fouling the suspension on full lock.

If I am right, the wheel edge will have a rough chamfered finish and the paint will me missing. Plus there will be a corresponding mark on the suspension. Next time you hear the noise, just back of the lock a little bit.

chimleic

254 posts

265 months

Friday 17th December 2004
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I get the same noise on full lock, but haven't found any marking around the wheels/suspension. It isn't that 'type' of noise..more of a grinding/groaning. The slow speed doesn't match the groaning noise if it was a wheel rub problem.

bearmurray

Original Poster:

12 posts

262 months

Friday 17th December 2004
quotequote all
Thanks for all the info

Less concerned about the steering, The car was still cutting out today only towards end of journey (seems to be o.k. when cold) When sitting in work car park at idle it would drop revs, run rough until it was just about to die then perk up in a cycle lasting 5 secs each. Still ok blasting down the road but I noticed today as revs dip below say 1500 (in gear) the car will very occasionally jolt/misfire unless you change down.

Its going in somewhere next week.