Rich running - is my MAF shot?
Discussion
My 500 has always smelt a bit rich with a tendency to throw soot out when first started. Also from time to time will refuse to idle or stall when coming to a junction.
Pretty happy with the ignition side of things (did have a misfire and faulty rotor arm but now sorted)
I know a failing AFM or temp sensor can cause terrible over fuelling so checked everything with rover gauge. Temp readings, throttle pot etc all seem sensible.
AFM at idle gives a readout of "38% direct". Again seems reasonable AFAIK.
HOWEVER!
Testing the AFM directly (thanks to Mark/blitzracing for earlier posts) I get what I think are very abnormal readings:
Probes between red/black and green/blue (sensor ground and output) gives:
2.0-4.0v immediately on switch on. Within a second falls to anywhere between 0.45 and 0.6v and then takes around 20secs to drop down to 0.36v where it stays
At idle (1000rpm) reads 1.85-1.95v but did flick over 2v just once (checked this over a few start ups)
Having just spunked £6k on an engine rebuild, clutch etc I don't want to throw another £100 away on a new AFM unless it is definitely faulty.
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
Simon.
Pretty happy with the ignition side of things (did have a misfire and faulty rotor arm but now sorted)
I know a failing AFM or temp sensor can cause terrible over fuelling so checked everything with rover gauge. Temp readings, throttle pot etc all seem sensible.
AFM at idle gives a readout of "38% direct". Again seems reasonable AFAIK.
HOWEVER!
Testing the AFM directly (thanks to Mark/blitzracing for earlier posts) I get what I think are very abnormal readings:
Probes between red/black and green/blue (sensor ground and output) gives:
2.0-4.0v immediately on switch on. Within a second falls to anywhere between 0.45 and 0.6v and then takes around 20secs to drop down to 0.36v where it stays
At idle (1000rpm) reads 1.85-1.95v but did flick over 2v just once (checked this over a few start ups)
Having just spunked £6k on an engine rebuild, clutch etc I don't want to throw another £100 away on a new AFM unless it is definitely faulty.
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
Simon.
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