CV Joint Locking Plates
Discussion
Evening all,
I've just bought a set of 4 CV joints from Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry.
Each joint comes with a new boot flange BUT it's not quite the same as the existing one.
The bolt locking plate (the metal plate with a hole in each end, which doesn't actually lock anything!) will not sit in the correct position to allow the bolt head to sit down square on the face. The flat area around the bolt hole is too restrictive towards the inner part.
I'm not sure what the point of these 'locking plates' is. They do spread some load (but then so would a washer) and they have no action that actually locks the bolt (you would need a thiner plate that could have the edge folded up and hex head bolts).
I could clean up the old flanges and then paint them but the new ones are nice and shiny!!!
Are these a safety feature or can I just leave them off?? I will however be using locking split washers.
Cheers,
Dave
I've just bought a set of 4 CV joints from Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry.
Each joint comes with a new boot flange BUT it's not quite the same as the existing one.
The bolt locking plate (the metal plate with a hole in each end, which doesn't actually lock anything!) will not sit in the correct position to allow the bolt head to sit down square on the face. The flat area around the bolt hole is too restrictive towards the inner part.
I'm not sure what the point of these 'locking plates' is. They do spread some load (but then so would a washer) and they have no action that actually locks the bolt (you would need a thiner plate that could have the edge folded up and hex head bolts).
I could clean up the old flanges and then paint them but the new ones are nice and shiny!!!
Are these a safety feature or can I just leave them off?? I will however be using locking split washers.
Cheers,
Dave
Edited by davelittlewood on Sunday 12th October 09:51
Update:
Done some googling and found out that they are on there to provide a hard surface for the locking washers to dig in against.
So do I put the old knackered ones back on, buy new boot plates or use the new ones and forget the locking plates?
Anyone else put new joints back on without the locking plates?
Done some googling and found out that they are on there to provide a hard surface for the locking washers to dig in against.
So do I put the old knackered ones back on, buy new boot plates or use the new ones and forget the locking plates?
Anyone else put new joints back on without the locking plates?
Edited by davelittlewood on Sunday 12th October 09:53
I just got my 4 x CV joints delivered from Dave Mac a few days ago and started to fit them today. Yes the original load spreaders don't sit right on the CV covers - there is a ridge that stops them sitting correctly. I suppose you could grind the spreaders to shape to allow them to fit around the ridges however I have just left them off. From reading other threads other people have done this without problems.
The puzzling thing for me is Dave Mac supplied replacement/new cap headed bolts to secure the cover to the outer stub and to the diff - they have supplied M10 coarse however what is needed is M10 fine (1,25 mm thread) so I have had to end up with fitting the original bolts. Another puzzling thing is they also supply the gaiter and outer sealing clip but not the inner clip. …….
I'm also seeing some rotational play in the CV (almost as much as the joints I'm replacing) however to be fair I don't know if this is within tolerance or not…….
The puzzling thing for me is Dave Mac supplied replacement/new cap headed bolts to secure the cover to the outer stub and to the diff - they have supplied M10 coarse however what is needed is M10 fine (1,25 mm thread) so I have had to end up with fitting the original bolts. Another puzzling thing is they also supply the gaiter and outer sealing clip but not the inner clip. …….
I'm also seeing some rotational play in the CV (almost as much as the joints I'm replacing) however to be fair I don't know if this is within tolerance or not…….
I noticed the same problem when working on my car. Mixed the two styles from two cars unknowingly and found out after rezincing.
made a little drawing and gave it to a laser cutter.
unfortunately the boss found out and the supposed to be backdoor job cost me
the best part of 25 Euros.
if you want the dxf file send me a message, i can surely find it again.
made a little drawing and gave it to a laser cutter.
unfortunately the boss found out and the supposed to be backdoor job cost me
the best part of 25 Euros.
if you want the dxf file send me a message, i can surely find it again.
The bolts on both ends of my drive shafts are M10x1.25 x 60 long.
The bolts that came with the CV joints will go into the general nut and bolts box as they are M10x1.5x60 long.
They are also marked as 8.8, so a minimum 0.2% proof strength of 640MPa at 20C, I thought that most cap screws were 10.9 (940 MPa yield, almost 50% more!)
The CV joints themselves have grooves in the OD that break through into the 6 bolt holes.
Not sure about this feature at all, allows muck and water into the bolt holes. I like having the bolts fully enclosed as it stops them corroding.
I might sheath the bolt shank in some heat shrink tubing with some oil inside to protect them.
The guy at Dave Macs said that this was done to save weight?? All of a few hundred grammes maybe...
Looking at the picture on TVR Power's website you can see the same thing on their CV joints too (same supplier???)
http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/cv-j...
Anyway, the locking plates don't fit at all on the new boot plate
My old boot plates are quite rusty so I want to put on the new ones, probably with just some new split washers and new bolts.
I'll mark up the position when they're done up and then check them again in a hundred miles or so.
I've found quote a few threads (for VWs, Porsche clubs etc) where they have the same problem. Lots of suggestions from having the threads ultra clean and using heavy duty thread lock to just stuffing the old bolts and washers back on.
New bolts and washers and no locking plates me thinks.
Update:
Just checked the drive shaft bolts on Clever Trevor and their CV joint kit looks the same as the ones from Dave Mac, even down to the slogan on the grease tube 'best transmission guaranteed'.
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/R00...
The bolts that came with the CV joints will go into the general nut and bolts box as they are M10x1.5x60 long.
They are also marked as 8.8, so a minimum 0.2% proof strength of 640MPa at 20C, I thought that most cap screws were 10.9 (940 MPa yield, almost 50% more!)
The CV joints themselves have grooves in the OD that break through into the 6 bolt holes.
Not sure about this feature at all, allows muck and water into the bolt holes. I like having the bolts fully enclosed as it stops them corroding.
I might sheath the bolt shank in some heat shrink tubing with some oil inside to protect them.
The guy at Dave Macs said that this was done to save weight?? All of a few hundred grammes maybe...
Looking at the picture on TVR Power's website you can see the same thing on their CV joints too (same supplier???)
http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/cv-j...
Anyway, the locking plates don't fit at all on the new boot plate
My old boot plates are quite rusty so I want to put on the new ones, probably with just some new split washers and new bolts.
I'll mark up the position when they're done up and then check them again in a hundred miles or so.
I've found quote a few threads (for VWs, Porsche clubs etc) where they have the same problem. Lots of suggestions from having the threads ultra clean and using heavy duty thread lock to just stuffing the old bolts and washers back on.
New bolts and washers and no locking plates me thinks.
Update:
Just checked the drive shaft bolts on Clever Trevor and their CV joint kit looks the same as the ones from Dave Mac, even down to the slogan on the grease tube 'best transmission guaranteed'.
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/R00...
Edited by davelittlewood on Sunday 12th October 15:06
my250gt said:
Is this what you need?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cosworth-Rear-Drive-Shaf...
Hmm..http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cosworth-Rear-Drive-Shaf...
I've got a decent car spares place not far from here, I might see if they can get those in. I'd rather make sure they fit before ordering them.Unless I am missing the point, the plates go through two adjacent holes to help prevent the bolts turning, similar principle to lock wire. Having just torqued mine up it didn't feel massively tight. I used new style locking plates and special locking washers, will post link later. I personally wouldn't not fit plates, they are thicker and harder than the tin used for the gaiter trims. Just my thoughts for what they are worth.
Phil.
Schnorr washers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170852007642?_trksid=p20...
Phil.
Schnorr washers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170852007642?_trksid=p20...
I've just fitted the old locking plates after grinding off a a bevel on the side that sits on the joint cover. Just enough taken off so the plate now avoids the ridge on the cover and hence now sits flat against the face of the cover. That said I'm not sure of what benefit these spreader plates bring and looking at the serrated washers of the previous post that to my mind could well be the better option....
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