Discussion
just in the middle of hopefully stopping my leaking sump .I am going to just use silicone no gasket thinking of making a couple of brackets to put on the front and back of sump to put more pressure on to help stop leakage .is there any need to do that or not bother and just put it on as normal thanks.
Chuffmeister said:
That looks like a thick bead of the wrong silicone.
Power did not apply it like that in fact I have seen a very low mileage 500 sump seal (never been off) and it was super tidy no signs of excess and no oil loss the only reason I removed it was because it lunched a rocker pad and I wanted to make sure there was no shrapnel swimming round in the sump. Those previous pictures are a good advert how not to apply RTV 
Sardonicus said:
Chuffmeister said:
That looks like a thick bead of the wrong silicone.
Power did not apply it like that in fact I have seen a very low mileage 500 sump seal (never been off) and it was super tidy no signs of excess and no oil loss the only reason I removed it was because it lunched a rocker pad and I wanted to make sure there was no shrapnel swimming round in the sump. Those previous pictures are a good advert how not to apply RTV So gents
Got the studs
Got the dimo s or what ever it called
Is this how to do it?
Clean clean clean
Lock some studs in 2 front 2 back
One beed of the sealer (small) on the sump
Do you mate it and remove and let it go 3/4 off or mate boilt up loose until it has gone off then boilt up to the correct torque .
Got the studs
Got the dimo s or what ever it called
Is this how to do it?
Clean clean clean
Lock some studs in 2 front 2 back
One beed of the sealer (small) on the sump
Do you mate it and remove and let it go 3/4 off or mate boilt up loose until it has gone off then boilt up to the correct torque .
Edited by jojackson4 on Thursday 12th February 07:44
All as above.
I gently smear the Dirko around the bolt holes so you have good coverage.
Bolt up about half to three quarters tightness and let it go off for several hours.
Finally tighten.
don't forget to smear plenty of sealant around the two bolts below the timing cover, (adjacent to the oil pressure pick up).
These are tapped holes and go straight through into the timing chest.
I gently smear the Dirko around the bolt holes so you have good coverage.
Bolt up about half to three quarters tightness and let it go off for several hours.
Finally tighten.
don't forget to smear plenty of sealant around the two bolts below the timing cover, (adjacent to the oil pressure pick up).
These are tapped holes and go straight through into the timing chest.
I can't think of a reason not to although I usually just use 2 studs, one on each side.
As Spend says, it allows you to line up without smearing the sealant.
Ideally have someone to carefully lift the sump and hold in position while you get a few bolts in to "hang" it is position then you can take your time to evenly bolt it up.
As Spend says, it allows you to line up without smearing the sealant.
Ideally have someone to carefully lift the sump and hold in position while you get a few bolts in to "hang" it is position then you can take your time to evenly bolt it up.
Sardonicus said:
Power did not apply it like that in fact I have seen a very low mileage 500 sump seal (never been off) and it was super tidy no signs of excess and no oil loss the only reason I removed it was because it lunched a rocker pad and I wanted to make sure there was no shrapnel swimming round in the sump. Those previous pictures are a good advert how not to apply RTV jojackson4 said:
Thanks Peter
The timing bolts are they good to lock the studs in to I have some worth RTV and can use that as a soft thread lock
Kindof... OTOMH the various ins/outs are:The timing bolts are they good to lock the studs in to I have some worth RTV and can use that as a soft thread lock
If you wish to retain normal workshop procedures..
when you take the timing off (cam etc) its normal to release the cover bolts and loosen the the sump, if you have studs in the timing cover it would mean draining oil & dropping the sump completely to remove the timing cover.
TBH I'd rather take the longer route and put studs in.. +all holes sealed with studs, + if block is placed on floor mating surface is not scratched as protected by studs (easier to replace than reface) --pissed off service centres will have a bit more work to do when replacing cam etc..?
You can take a middle road by using socket set screws as studs (they have a hex key insert) so they can be removed if necessary.. Then there is still a little issue with dismantling order / fitment with the std serp oil pressure sender getting in the way (and loads of owners seem not to want to touch that??).
BeastMaster said:
Hiya Did you find the pad, shrapnel or any sign of bits in the sump. The reason I ask is that just had the same on mine, but has also damaged the valve stem so heads have to come off. Think I'm going to replace the aluminium rockers with the steel ones and may even go for single valve springs to ease the pressure on the valve train. Its a 500 so need to go past 4750 rpm as nothing to be gained. Can anyone advise on the rockers to get ?
No it was all in the cylinder head but I have no regrets doing what I did I also managed to dress off the slight damage on the valve stems on 2 valves with an oil stone but only just 
the screws Spend is referring to are sometimes termed grub screws IIRC and you need the longer one's obviously I use just 4 but I agree a full set would be easier 
this one wasnt so lucky from my small black museum 
Edited by Sardonicus on Thursday 12th February 11:03
I think the studs for the sump is a great idea. It would make life much, much easier when fitting the sump and would also save you continuously sealing the rear bolts. Although, I can see how studding the bolts in the front two (timing cover) may make it difficult to get past the oil sender. I'm gonna order a few studs for next time. Are they 5/16 UNC?
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