Throttle Cable inner wing rubber bellows/grommet
Discussion
Cant help with the availability but im thinking of using some of these compression glands to neaten up the area as i hate these grommets. Will involve making a blanking plate for the existing holes but just an idea for you.
Sizes would be larger though to allow cable ends to pass through.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EK249B.html
Sizes would be larger though to allow cable ends to pass through.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EK249B.html
Edited by ch427 on Sunday 8th March 19:36
Im trying to think of a better idea to get rid of the three grommets and just use something similar in design to this so if anyone has any ideas?
http://marinestore.co.uk/Scanstrut_Stainless_Steel...
http://marinestore.co.uk/Scanstrut_Stainless_Steel...
What about these?
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/hose-fitt...
They aren't cheap but they do all different sorts, including quite a clever split one so you can fit it without having to disconnect whatever you're putting through it.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/hose-fitt...
They aren't cheap but they do all different sorts, including quite a clever split one so you can fit it without having to disconnect whatever you're putting through it.
Grommets are available here. Cheap as chips.
Paul.
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-parts/...
Paul.
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-parts/...
Replacing the Throttle cable took me between 2-3 hours including coffee breaks, swearing, wriggling in and out of the drivers footwell to get a different spanner/foxwedge/screwdriver/sockets/string and tape etc.
Seat out and steering wheel off is necessary for access, then lie on your back with your feet on the roof hoop.
Problem starts when you realise that the cable nipple is located via a slot at the top end of the throttle pedal that has been closed over with a pair of pliers by some previous personage and the cable won't come out.
Try as I might working in that confined space I could'nt reopen the slot as it was totally closed over, so the pedal had to come out.
Now, the pedal spindle boss is too wide to come off its pivot spindle
, so the spindle and pedal need to come out together by undoing the spindle retaining nut which is partially hidden by a flanged edge of the pedal box, such that it is impossible to get a spanner on it!
I eventually removed the nut by jamming a foxwedge between the flange and a flat on the nut and undoing it from the other side. Needless to say the foxwedge will keep falling out if you don't maintain pressure on it.


The pedal was now swinging in the breeze, but. The cable outer is retained in a grommet attached to the pedal adjustment bracket,which in turn is held on the side of the pedal box by two nuts behind the spindle and of course deeper in the footwell. This needs to come out as well to be able to have sufficient room to open the closed slot on the pedal and pull the cable itself out of the grommet.

Tie a piece of string arround the end of the old cable and pull it through until it emerges out through the large grommet hole in the inner wing.
Replacement as they say is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Overall a pig of a job, but I'm glad that I've done it as the old cable was in poor condititon.
If I had to do it again, knowing what I know now, it could be done in half the time and I would have secured the help of a mate to fetch and had me the tools as needed.
Seat out and steering wheel off is necessary for access, then lie on your back with your feet on the roof hoop.
Problem starts when you realise that the cable nipple is located via a slot at the top end of the throttle pedal that has been closed over with a pair of pliers by some previous personage and the cable won't come out.

Try as I might working in that confined space I could'nt reopen the slot as it was totally closed over, so the pedal had to come out.
Now, the pedal spindle boss is too wide to come off its pivot spindle
, so the spindle and pedal need to come out together by undoing the spindle retaining nut which is partially hidden by a flanged edge of the pedal box, such that it is impossible to get a spanner on it!
I eventually removed the nut by jamming a foxwedge between the flange and a flat on the nut and undoing it from the other side. Needless to say the foxwedge will keep falling out if you don't maintain pressure on it.


The pedal was now swinging in the breeze, but. The cable outer is retained in a grommet attached to the pedal adjustment bracket,which in turn is held on the side of the pedal box by two nuts behind the spindle and of course deeper in the footwell. This needs to come out as well to be able to have sufficient room to open the closed slot on the pedal and pull the cable itself out of the grommet.


Tie a piece of string arround the end of the old cable and pull it through until it emerges out through the large grommet hole in the inner wing.
Replacement as they say is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Overall a pig of a job, but I'm glad that I've done it as the old cable was in poor condititon.
If I had to do it again, knowing what I know now, it could be done in half the time and I would have secured the help of a mate to fetch and had me the tools as needed.
Or these if you want to go bling! We use them on the boats at work.
http://www.smgeurope.com/Partners/product-details....
http://www.smgeurope.com/Partners/product-details....
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