Has anyone ever,,,
Discussion
Cut a new hole in a walnut finish dash? The standard type metal with that overlay.
Only I have the turbo boost gauge in place of the clock and would still like to retain the original clock so a new hole would be needed. I thought about heating something of a same diameter to first melt out a disc for me then to cut through the metal with a hole saw. Outside chance I know but anyone?
The original dash is still 'mint' and I don't want to ruin it. I wish to keep it standard 'ish'
ta,
Only I have the turbo boost gauge in place of the clock and would still like to retain the original clock so a new hole would be needed. I thought about heating something of a same diameter to first melt out a disc for me then to cut through the metal with a hole saw. Outside chance I know but anyone?
The original dash is still 'mint' and I don't want to ruin it. I wish to keep it standard 'ish'
ta,
The best tip I can give you is that if you intend using a hole saw to run it in reverse, this is a trick I learnt while building the westfield cutting holes in fibreglass. By cutting on the back face of the saw teeth gives you a clean and un-chipped edge. The other tip would be to start off with a hand drill rather than an electric drill, that way if things start to go wrong you can stop before it is too late. Good luck!
Mr Supercharged said:
The best tip I can give you is that if you intend using a hole saw to run it in reverse, this is a trick I learnt while building the westfield cutting holes in fibreglass. By cutting on the back face of the saw teeth gives you a clean and un-chipped edge. The other tip would be to start off with a hand drill rather than an electric drill, that way if things start to go wrong you can stop before it is too late. Good luck!
I like the sound of this, it's the old drilling number plates with a blunt drill bit trick to stop splintering my bit for doing this must be 20 years old and still does the job faultlessly, plates are brittle just like the Vaneer.The main issue with holesaws (I assume you mean Starrett or similar) is ensuring there is a good key for the arbor pilot to run down.
A nice layer of masking tape generally leaves a decent finish on the face. As usual with cutting its more important to let the cutter work, so less pressure more rpm scenario...
I would use a large scaffold type plank to clamp the sheet to, drill a small core in that and hammer in a (nice hard steel) bush with the inner dia to suit the arbour drill bit.
A nice layer of masking tape generally leaves a decent finish on the face. As usual with cutting its more important to let the cutter work, so less pressure more rpm scenario...
I would use a large scaffold type plank to clamp the sheet to, drill a small core in that and hammer in a (nice hard steel) bush with the inner dia to suit the arbour drill bit.
spend said:
The main issue with holesaws (I assume you mean Starrett or similar) is ensuring there is a good key for the arbor pilot to run down.
A nice layer of masking tape generally leaves a decent finish on the face. As usual with cutting its more important to let the cutter work, so less pressure more rpm scenario...
I would use a large scaffold type plank to clamp the sheet to, drill a small core in that and hammer in a (nice hard steel) bush with the inner dia to suit the arbour drill bit.
Another issue not to be forgotten is that a Starrett hole saw will always cut larger than it says so check it for size on a scrap piece of material first and if necessary use the the next size down and open up with a half round file.;)A nice layer of masking tape generally leaves a decent finish on the face. As usual with cutting its more important to let the cutter work, so less pressure more rpm scenario...
I would use a large scaffold type plank to clamp the sheet to, drill a small core in that and hammer in a (nice hard steel) bush with the inner dia to suit the arbour drill bit.
Been there a couple of times over the years and it's not an easy task - assuming you're not intending to remove the dash but want to do in-situ, I doubt a hole saw of any description is going to be do-able. I used a rope saw intended for ceramic tile cutting (bit like a fret saw) but even that chimbled the veneer as it cut despite taping. Got away with it due to the bezel depth but you only need to look at it and it'll flake off. Any delamination from the backing and you're courting disaster.
Did think about a flat wood bit of the right size to cleanly cut the veneer as an initial step but never tried it as I was impatient. If your dash is good and you want to keep it that way, I'd be very very cautious about attempting it.
With the dash out and sandwich clamped behind some ply or whatever, might be easier but can still see the edge being raggy.
The DIY market needs a home laser cutter
Did think about a flat wood bit of the right size to cleanly cut the veneer as an initial step but never tried it as I was impatient. If your dash is good and you want to keep it that way, I'd be very very cautious about attempting it.
With the dash out and sandwich clamped behind some ply or whatever, might be easier but can still see the edge being raggy.
The DIY market needs a home laser cutter
QBee said:
I'd need a stiff drink too if i had fitted that lot. Well done!
That was actually a staged photo for a wind up when the Russian owned TVR !! must post up some pics of the finished job with the Cerbera steering wheel fitted.I got SC Power to design the dashboard for me for the extra dials and the shift lights.The rest is stock Cerbera.
for the ETB gauges .Well, started it
No going back now.
job done
Chuffed, in place and I have the clock too! Big thanks to all advice guys, the hole saw in reverse in particular for cutting the veneer.
No going back now.
job done
Chuffed, in place and I have the clock too! Big thanks to all advice guys, the hole saw in reverse in particular for cutting the veneer.
Edited by macdeb on Monday 16th March 22:59
Edited by macdeb on Monday 16th March 23:01
Edited by macdeb on Monday 16th March 23:03
Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 17th March 08:15
macdeb said:
QBee said:
Or save yourself a lot of risk and potential grief and just ditch the clock
but the point of the post is,,,,,,Edited by macdeb on Monday 16th March 22:04
that looks really good. Now we all know how to do that. I will put an oil temp gauge in mine following your example.My point? Sometimes I just think that when something is clearly a risk it can be an idea if at least one person suggests the alternative course of action, especially in a car as nice as yours. Glad it went well, and without removing the dash.
QBee said:
Well done Mac!! that looks really good. Now we all know how to do that. I will put an oil temp gauge in mine following your example.
My point? Sometimes I just think that when something is clearly a risk it can be an idea if at least one person suggests the alternative course of action, especially in a car as nice as yours. Glad it went well, and without removing the dash.
I know mate and thanks that looks really good. Now we all know how to do that. I will put an oil temp gauge in mine following your example.My point? Sometimes I just think that when something is clearly a risk it can be an idea if at least one person suggests the alternative course of action, especially in a car as nice as yours. Glad it went well, and without removing the dash.
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