Discussion
How about this for luck. Both brake light on the Chim went at the same time lastnight. So i now have no light on the back (well no brake lights).
I assume that the 1996 4.0 chim uses the normal stop and tail light that one can buy from halfud? Or does anyone recommend anything else?
Can't really go anywhere until the shops open at 9 to get the lights.
Oh and does anyone know how to access the light cluter in the back?
I assume that the 1996 4.0 chim uses the normal stop and tail light that one can buy from halfud? Or does anyone recommend anything else?
Can't really go anywhere until the shops open at 9 to get the lights.
Oh and does anyone know how to access the light cluter in the back?
On my 95 Chim bulb access is quite easy at the rear. From within the boot, pull the carpet away from the light clusters and the bulb holder should easily unclip from the reflector assembly. Replace the bulb and clip back into place.
I think the bulbs should be standard parts (according to the 'bible' the cluster is a Mark III Fiesta part)
Alex
I think the bulbs should be standard parts (according to the 'bible' the cluster is a Mark III Fiesta part)
Alex
d3ano said:
how would i know its the switch?
Would assume that its the lights as the previous owner changed both of them at the same time about 1 1/2 ago.
Mine blew together (either that or in very quick succession). I replaced both a couple of months ago and they're both working fine now.
As bulbs are so cheap and easy to fit - start there. If that doesn't do it, let us know and I'm sure someone will have some more technical ideas...
I had to change a bulb on my mine not so long ago. When I tried to unscrew the cap to get to the bulbs..I found that Henry, Bill or Arthur had glued the access cap onto the housing when they fitted the upholstry into the boot 
what should have been a 5 min job turned into 2.5 hrs!
>> Edited by dave_p on Tuesday 18th January 17:17
what should have been a 5 min job turned into 2.5 hrs!
>> Edited by dave_p on Tuesday 18th January 17:17
d3ano said:
how would i know its the switch?
Would assume that its the lights as the previous owner changed both of them at the same time about 1 1/2 ago.
I think that I took it off the brake pedal and checked it with a multi-meter. I could see that it was cracked but it was beyond repair. Replacement was pretty cheap though.
Rob
d3ano said:
how would i know its the switch?
Would assume that its the lights as the previous owner changed both of them at the same time about 1 1/2 ago.
Just short across the switch with the blade of a screwdriver or similar. If the lights come on, the switch is faulty.
IMO, its highly unlikely that both bulbs have gone at the same time. I assume you have checked the fuse ?? Isn't the wiper park switch (which is prone to shorting and popping fuses) wired into the brake light fused circuit on some Chims ??
d3ano said:
right its not the blub.
So now that leaves the fuse and/or the switch.
Now does anyone know what fuse it is? I looked at it and thought, "crap, don't like the look of that". Its so far back too!
Can anyone tell me which one it is?
Thanks
d3
Assuming that the previous users have replaced blown fuses like for like, then simply pull out all the 20A ones and look for any where the conductor is discontinuous.
Alternatively, if your wipers return to the parked position of their own accord when you turn the wipers off, then it isn't going to be the fuse.
Try shorting across the brake light switch (with the ignition turn on, of course) and let us know how you get on.
Actually after another read, there appears to be another panel for the late 95/early 96 model, with a 10A speedo/brake/Reverse fuse.
This fuse was between a 10A mirro control fuse and a 15A Heater system fuse.
If you told us the layout of the fuse values, we could probably figure out which is the brake fuse and which fuse/relay panel you have.
This fuse was between a 10A mirro control fuse and a 15A Heater system fuse.
If you told us the layout of the fuse values, we could probably figure out which is the brake fuse and which fuse/relay panel you have.
Nope, looked at all the 20amp fuses and they are all intact and the wipers are working.
Not only are the brakes light not working, but some little shit has also put more key marks on the car. I don't know how i'm going to tell the wife. Maybe i should leave it until tomorrow, otherwise she won't sleep.
Erm....Any help guys?
thanks
D3
Can't help with the vermin who seem to delight in damaging other people's property. Never, ever mess with another man's wheels 
OK, so the wiper parks itself so its unlikely to be the park switch.
You've checked all of the 20A fuses and these were OK but as pointed out above, some Chims have the brake lights tapped into a 10A circuit. If it were a blown fuse, then you would notice some other device(s)not functioning - reverse lights, interior light ? For now, lets assume that the problem is NOT a blown fuse.
The most likely cause of your problem is the brake light switch.
I think the pedal switch on a Chim has two spades connected to it. When the pedal is pushed, the switch goes short circuit and volts pass from the feed side of the switch, through the switch and on to the brake lights.
This can be checked one of two ways:
1) Remove the switch from the equation. To do this, remove the spade connectors from the switch and connect them using a straighened paper clip or piece of wire. Turn the ignition on. If the brake lights come on, then the fault must be the switch.
2) Buy a test lamp or multimeter - Maplin sell these for less than a fiver. Connect the black probe to a known earth point. Turn the ignition on and touch the red probe onto one side of the switch. If this reads 12v then you have found the live side. Push the switch and place the red probe on the other side of the switch. If this reads 12v then the switch is OK. If you measure 0v then the switch is dead.
If you do measure 12v at the switched side, then the problem exists somewhere between the switch itself and the brake lights. Finding this can be a bit more problematic.
I've no great experience (almost none at all) of Chim electrics but isn't there a known 'weak' spot / connector block behind the panel by the door recess ?
I find it easiest to break electrical problems down into bite sized chunks. For instance:
12v at the fuse (confirm which one it is from the Bible) - Yes / No
12v feed to the brake light switch - Yes / No
12v on the other side of the switch - Yes / No
Continuity in the cable from the switch to the brake lights (this is where the multimeter comes in handy) - Yes / No
Running through this process will at least isolate whereabouts in the circuit the problem lies.
Best of luck.
OK, so the wiper parks itself so its unlikely to be the park switch.
You've checked all of the 20A fuses and these were OK but as pointed out above, some Chims have the brake lights tapped into a 10A circuit. If it were a blown fuse, then you would notice some other device(s)not functioning - reverse lights, interior light ? For now, lets assume that the problem is NOT a blown fuse.
The most likely cause of your problem is the brake light switch.
I think the pedal switch on a Chim has two spades connected to it. When the pedal is pushed, the switch goes short circuit and volts pass from the feed side of the switch, through the switch and on to the brake lights.
This can be checked one of two ways:
1) Remove the switch from the equation. To do this, remove the spade connectors from the switch and connect them using a straighened paper clip or piece of wire. Turn the ignition on. If the brake lights come on, then the fault must be the switch.
2) Buy a test lamp or multimeter - Maplin sell these for less than a fiver. Connect the black probe to a known earth point. Turn the ignition on and touch the red probe onto one side of the switch. If this reads 12v then you have found the live side. Push the switch and place the red probe on the other side of the switch. If this reads 12v then the switch is OK. If you measure 0v then the switch is dead.
If you do measure 12v at the switched side, then the problem exists somewhere between the switch itself and the brake lights. Finding this can be a bit more problematic.
I've no great experience (almost none at all) of Chim electrics but isn't there a known 'weak' spot / connector block behind the panel by the door recess ?
I find it easiest to break electrical problems down into bite sized chunks. For instance:
12v at the fuse (confirm which one it is from the Bible) - Yes / No
12v feed to the brake light switch - Yes / No
12v on the other side of the switch - Yes / No
Continuity in the cable from the switch to the brake lights (this is where the multimeter comes in handy) - Yes / No
Running through this process will at least isolate whereabouts in the circuit the problem lies.
Best of luck.
Don't worry too much. My switch went 3 days before a trip to France. Bit of a panic but a simple fix in the end. Plenty of advice above on how to test it. The wires simply pull out of the switch housing. You can then press or hold them together to check to see if the lights come on (ingition must be on too). If that works then its time to get to your dealer/specialist for a new switch. Like I said, they're pretty cheap and I fitted in in 30 seconds or so. Its been fine since.
Its been the only thing that I've needed to do to it outside of a service.
Good luck tomorrow,
Rob
Its been the only thing that I've needed to do to it outside of a service.
Good luck tomorrow,
Rob
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