Discussion
I was in France a little while back, and couldn't get any Mobil 1 (10/40 I think) so had to use 15/50 AGIP synthetic to top up - better than too low oil level. Anyone know if this mixing has any nasty side effects or do I end up with essentially a multigrade sloshing around in there?
quote:
I was in France a little while back, and couldn't get any Mobil 1 (10/40 I think) so had to use 15/50 AGIP synthetic to top up - better than too low oil level. Anyone know if this mixing has any nasty side effects or do I end up with essentially a multigrade sloshing around in there?
Spoke to a bloke at V8 Developments and He recommended not to use mobil 1, but use Motul 15-40 available from Demon Tweeks,or Castrol magnetec 10/15 -40. Remember the engine design is about 50 years old, made before any synthetic oil came on the scene. I was using Mobil 1 myself and found that the oil pressure dropped after a long journey and the engine became noisy, so i changed to castrol magnetec, unless you can buy the proper Mobil 1 Tri synthetic 15-40 imported from America, or available thru www.RACERSEDGE.CO.UK
Actually you should be using whale blubber oil as the engine dates back to the turn of the century. It's a bit smelly but...
The Rover engine oil pump and lubrication system has been changed many times with the last change done in the early 1990s so this whole 50 year old engine argument is a lot of...
TVRs suffer more from heat induced oil degredation than anything else. That means use a synthetic. Mobiul 1 is pretty good at maintaining its properties at temp which is what you want. If you use Mobil 1 then it is easily available in 15W50 Motorpsort grade if you don't want to use the thin stuff. Even Halfords sell it these days. The argument against the thin stuff is engine wear but many engines have gone onto 100K miles with the stuff while others with other rave oils have died with the same symptoms as the thin oils are supposed to be responsible with!
The most important thing is to change the oil regularly, check the levels as they do use it and watch the oil pressure. Don't rev the engine hard when cold as this does far more damage than people realise.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
The Rover engine oil pump and lubrication system has been changed many times with the last change done in the early 1990s so this whole 50 year old engine argument is a lot of...
TVRs suffer more from heat induced oil degredation than anything else. That means use a synthetic. Mobiul 1 is pretty good at maintaining its properties at temp which is what you want. If you use Mobil 1 then it is easily available in 15W50 Motorpsort grade if you don't want to use the thin stuff. Even Halfords sell it these days. The argument against the thin stuff is engine wear but many engines have gone onto 100K miles with the stuff while others with other rave oils have died with the same symptoms as the thin oils are supposed to be responsible with!
The most important thing is to change the oil regularly, check the levels as they do use it and watch the oil pressure. Don't rev the engine hard when cold as this does far more damage than people realise.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Actually you should be using whale blubber oil as the engine dates back to the turn of the century. It's a bit smelly but...
The Rover engine oil pump and lubrication system has been changed many times with the last change done in the early 1990s so this whole 50 year old engine argument is a lot of...
TVRs suffer more from heat induced oil degredation than anything else. That means use a synthetic. Mobiul 1 is pretty good at maintaining its properties at temp which is what you want. If you use Mobil 1 then it is easily available in 15W50 Motorpsort grade if you don't want to use the thin stuff. Even Halfords sell it these days. The argument against the thin stuff is engine wear but many engines have gone onto 100K miles with the stuff while others with other rave oils have died with the same symptoms as the thin oils are supposed to be responsible with!
The most important thing is to change the oil regularly, check the levels as they do use it and watch the oil pressure. Don't rev the engine hard when cold as this does far more damage than people realise.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
The Rover engine oil pump and lubrication system has been changed many times with the last change done in the early 1990s so this whole 50 year old engine argument is a lot of...
TVRs suffer more from heat induced oil degredation than anything else. That means use a synthetic. Mobiul 1 is pretty good at maintaining its properties at temp which is what you want. If you use Mobil 1 then it is easily available in 15W50 Motorpsort grade if you don't want to use the thin stuff. Even Halfords sell it these days. The argument against the thin stuff is engine wear but many engines have gone onto 100K miles with the stuff while others with other rave oils have died with the same symptoms as the thin oils are supposed to be responsible with!
The most important thing is to change the oil regularly, check the levels as they do use it and watch the oil pressure. Don't rev the engine hard when cold as this does far more damage than people realise.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve,
I tend to wait until the oil pressure at idle is around 15 psi before I allow the engine to rev above 2500 and apply much throttle. When I first start the engine, the pressure is around 40 psi and steadily drops until it levels out at 15psi. I'm reading this as the oil warming up and therefore getting thinner. Two Qs - am I right in my understanding and is this excessively conservative and therefore resulting in a longer warm up time and hence more engine damage? This might seem a bit trivial, but I love this car and will be holding onto her for some time.
Thanks,
Steve (and Yellow Chim' 5L)
I tend to wait until the oil pressure at idle is around 15 psi before I allow the engine to rev above 2500 and apply much throttle. When I first start the engine, the pressure is around 40 psi and steadily drops until it levels out at 15psi. I'm reading this as the oil warming up and therefore getting thinner. Two Qs - am I right in my understanding and is this excessively conservative and therefore resulting in a longer warm up time and hence more engine damage? This might seem a bit trivial, but I love this car and will be holding onto her for some time.
Thanks,
Steve (and Yellow Chim' 5L)
More likley it is the oil pressure sender going crazy.
Just changed my oil pressure sender and I've gone from 15 lb at idle to 40 lb at idle so on that basis... I would still be waiting for the car to warm up.
There is no wrong or right way. If you rev to 2501 rpm with the engine 2 degrees cooler, the engine is not going to die immediately and nor is the world going to end.
What you do is reasonable but the oil thinning and reducing oil pressure is not a consistent sign as many of the thicker oils don't do this or the oil pump is working well and the pressure is maintained by thr relief valve which means the drops you are seeing won't happen.
I also think you can get paranoid about thinks and while there are times when you need to, equally a molly coddled over pampered car will suffer as well. Like most things it is everything in moderation.
Steve
Just changed my oil pressure sender and I've gone from 15 lb at idle to 40 lb at idle so on that basis... I would still be waiting for the car to warm up.
There is no wrong or right way. If you rev to 2501 rpm with the engine 2 degrees cooler, the engine is not going to die immediately and nor is the world going to end.
What you do is reasonable but the oil thinning and reducing oil pressure is not a consistent sign as many of the thicker oils don't do this or the oil pump is working well and the pressure is maintained by thr relief valve which means the drops you are seeing won't happen.
I also think you can get paranoid about thinks and while there are times when you need to, equally a molly coddled over pampered car will suffer as well. Like most things it is everything in moderation.
Steve
More likley it is the oil pressure sender going crazy.
Just changed my oil pressure sender and I've gone from 15 lb at idle to 40 lb at idle so on that basis... I would still be waiting for the car to warm up.
There is no wrong or right way. If you rev to 2501 rpm with the engine 2 degrees cooler, the engine is not going to die immediately and nor is the world going to end.
What you do is reasonable but the oil thinning and reducing oil pressure is not a consistent sign as many of the thicker oils don't do this or the oil pump is working well and the pressure is maintained by thr relief valve which means the drops you are seeing won't happen.
I also think you can get paranoid about thinks and while there are times when you need to, equally a molly coddled over pampered car will suffer as well. Like most things it is everything in moderation.
Steve
Just changed my oil pressure sender and I've gone from 15 lb at idle to 40 lb at idle so on that basis... I would still be waiting for the car to warm up.
There is no wrong or right way. If you rev to 2501 rpm with the engine 2 degrees cooler, the engine is not going to die immediately and nor is the world going to end.
What you do is reasonable but the oil thinning and reducing oil pressure is not a consistent sign as many of the thicker oils don't do this or the oil pump is working well and the pressure is maintained by thr relief valve which means the drops you are seeing won't happen.
I also think you can get paranoid about thinks and while there are times when you need to, equally a molly coddled over pampered car will suffer as well. Like most things it is everything in moderation.
Steve
Just to add my two penneth' to the debate, I NEVER take my car above 3000 RPM until both the water temperature is at or around normal, (90 degrees C) and the oil pressure is at or around 25 psi on idle, which again is the hot normal for my car. On avarage, this takes a minimum of 10 minutes of steady driving to achieve. As Steve says, you don't need to be exact but the more you care for your engine when it's cold, the less it will suffer from wear.
Jas.
P.S. Another advantage of driving slowly for the first 10 mins or so, is that you give the gearbox oil and diff oil time to warm up properly as well. I don't know if it makes much difference, but i'd rather not take a chance.
Jas.
P.S. Another advantage of driving slowly for the first 10 mins or so, is that you give the gearbox oil and diff oil time to warm up properly as well. I don't know if it makes much difference, but i'd rather not take a chance.
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