4 wheel alignment
Discussion
I need to get it sorted ,Are the settings sensitive enough to make a noticeable difference when changing wheels from road to track .
Track 215/40/17 235/45/17
Road 225/45/16 245/40/17
The track rear tyres do seem a bit larger in diameter .
I`m using the trackday tyres on the road at the moment while the road wheels are being painted .
Track 215/40/17 235/45/17
Road 225/45/16 245/40/17
The track rear tyres do seem a bit larger in diameter .
I`m using the trackday tyres on the road at the moment while the road wheels are being painted .
Nah, hardly make any difference, getting the car corner weighted and getting the cross weight right is the way to go, sometimes at tracks you'll see guys off setting ride heights to throw more weight towards one wheel or other by raising say the front right corner and lowering g the left rear, nett result more weight on the left rear, sometimes it works and gives better grip!
Thing is Daz you need to corner weight the car to get the balance spot on with driver and fuel in the tank, it might actually mean your wishbones might look uneaven but you'll now have the right ride height all round and an even tyre print on the Tarmac, now set up the geo again, toe, camber thrust line etc
It should feel very balanced, it's what Matts good at( getting the static weight right)
Errr my point is, there's no point getting geo set if the weighting is wrong cos you'll need to re do the geo again after making ride height changes to correct the corner weighting so get the corner weights set then adjust the geo and bobs your uncle. Should handle like a dream Daz.
Thing is Daz you need to corner weight the car to get the balance spot on with driver and fuel in the tank, it might actually mean your wishbones might look uneaven but you'll now have the right ride height all round and an even tyre print on the Tarmac, now set up the geo again, toe, camber thrust line etc
It should feel very balanced, it's what Matts good at( getting the static weight right)
Errr my point is, there's no point getting geo set if the weighting is wrong cos you'll need to re do the geo again after making ride height changes to correct the corner weighting so get the corner weights set then adjust the geo and bobs your uncle. Should handle like a dream Daz.
SILICONEKID345HP said:
QBee said:
That's not a big enough difference to matter.
Do you know somewhere locally to get a proper 4wheel alignment and suspension check done?
I was thinking about going to Mat Smith if he will have me . Should I keep the Federals on for the alignment ?Do you know somewhere locally to get a proper 4wheel alignment and suspension check done?
Use whichever wheels and tyres matter most to you re the alignment, but my car feels fine whichever I use, and mine are a bigger difference than yours. I have other track tyres and road tyres, but I run my Feds most of the time - great tyres IMHO.
Daz I'm hoping to show up at Bedford on the 15th so if your there I'd love to see your car, we could discuss it then, I might bring some poles and wire, two rulers, corner weights and set everyone's geo, £50 a shot,,, hahahah.
My mate has a handy camber gauge that's pretty accurate,,,,
I'm thinking drive to the track, find a flat floor, re set camber and even toe, aggressive track settings, fly around, reset and drive home,,, I don't think the car will stop to clever on bumpy roads with 3 degrees camber!
My mate has a handy camber gauge that's pretty accurate,,,,
I'm thinking drive to the track, find a flat floor, re set camber and even toe, aggressive track settings, fly around, reset and drive home,,, I don't think the car will stop to clever on bumpy roads with 3 degrees camber!
ClassiChimi said:
Daz I'm hoping to show up at Bedford on the 15th so if your there I'd love to see your car, we could discuss it then, I might bring some poles and wire, two rulers, corner weights and set everyone's geo, £50 a shot,,, hahahah.
My mate has a handy camber gauge that's pretty accurate,,,,
I'm thinking drive to the track, find a flat floor, re set camber and even toe, aggressive track settings, fly around, reset and drive home,,, I don't think the car will stop to clever on bumpy roads with 3 degrees camber!
I thought Anthony and I were running 1.5 neg on the front, could be wrong.My mate has a handy camber gauge that's pretty accurate,,,,
I'm thinking drive to the track, find a flat floor, re set camber and even toe, aggressive track settings, fly around, reset and drive home,,, I don't think the car will stop to clever on bumpy roads with 3 degrees camber!
Wear on the tyres is pretty even so the settings must be good.
I don't tend to wear the tyres on the road as I drive like a pussy there to save my licence and my life!
I just like the idea of playing with geo and weighting at the tracks Peter,
Heres my idea, 1mm toe out on the fronts
With 2 maybe 2.5 degrees camber
Rears leave toe for now but 3 degrees camber,,, brakes might be naff at this point but we brake early in a Tvr anyway so the extra corner speed might make up for it,,,,,
I need to check some tyre temps and pressures and tyre wear on you fast boys cars to see if it's needed!
Could give up a few seconds of lap time, better rear grip off the turns and balanced breaking, it might not, but hey it's darn good fun testing it all out.
I've been thinking of a rear spoiler than fits under the boot, sort of trap it with the boot lid and a few fixings so it's easy to remove for road use.
Anything g to keep them pesky foriegn cars from our asses.
When I say spoiler I really mean a subtle Guerney flap, just enough to help push the rear down a bit at speed.
I'm mad as a hatter, hah.
Heres my idea, 1mm toe out on the fronts
With 2 maybe 2.5 degrees camber
Rears leave toe for now but 3 degrees camber,,, brakes might be naff at this point but we brake early in a Tvr anyway so the extra corner speed might make up for it,,,,,
I need to check some tyre temps and pressures and tyre wear on you fast boys cars to see if it's needed!
Could give up a few seconds of lap time, better rear grip off the turns and balanced breaking, it might not, but hey it's darn good fun testing it all out.
I've been thinking of a rear spoiler than fits under the boot, sort of trap it with the boot lid and a few fixings so it's easy to remove for road use.
Anything g to keep them pesky foriegn cars from our asses.
When I say spoiler I really mean a subtle Guerney flap, just enough to help push the rear down a bit at speed.
I'm mad as a hatter, hah.
The main reason is because the steering seems so sensitive ,I have to fight to keep it on the road on anything other than a flat smooth road .
It follows the contour of the road to a point where if I let the steering wheel go it can shoot to the left . everything has been checked and its in good order ,nothing worn .
It makes me nervous .
It follows the contour of the road to a point where if I let the steering wheel go it can shoot to the left . everything has been checked and its in good order ,nothing worn .
It makes me nervous .
SILICONEKID345HP said:
The main reason is because the steering seems so sensitive ,I have to fight to keep it on the road on anything other than a flat smooth road .
It follows the contour of the road to a point where if I let the steering wheel go it can shoot to the left . everything has been checked and its in good order ,nothing worn .
It makes me nervous .
Classic out of alignment - mine was the same until i had it aligned.It follows the contour of the road to a point where if I let the steering wheel go it can shoot to the left . everything has been checked and its in good order ,nothing worn .
It makes me nervous .
Mat charges £90 IIRC for a full four wheel alignment, which starts with a check over of your suspension etc prior to adjusting anything, as any issues with the suspension components would render the alignment a waste of time/needing repeat, which he wants to avoid in your best interests. The only extra charges are for any components that need replacement (obviously), and if he has to spend more than a reasonable time freeing off any of the adjusters - the most common one being the rear toe adjusters, which can in extreme cases required the rear wishbones being removed from the car to achieve the right result.
He can also adjust your ride height as part of the process. Corner weighting is another option, but is only really relevant if you are going to be doing a lot on track.
He is damn good at what he does, so no time is wasted. He will set the car up how you want it, fast road, track etc. You can watch what he does, and he will show you the before and after, so that you can see why it felt so awful!
ClassiChimi said:
My view would be get the corner weights done first including any static Balance adjustments with driver and fuel I the car,,, you now have a even footprint on a four tyres,
Then get your alighnment done.
He does corner weighting as well if you want it done, Daz - discuss it with him when you book it in.Then get your alighnment done.
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