accelerating, changed gear, big bang, no drive to OSR wheel
Discussion
95 Chim 4.0 - with I suspect a GKN diff
During a changedown to accelerate, I experienced an almighty bang/clunk and immediately lost all drive. Having got it home I can confirm no drive to the rear right wheel. I jacked the car up, and put it in gear to test. Left wheel gets drive, right none.
No clunking, whining, or any other indication of what happened at the time, during towing, or during jack test. No visual indication of mangled 'bits', snapped driveshafts, or missing teeth etc.
Your help would be most appreciated. Can things as simple as a stripped/blown CV joint do this, or am I almost certainly looking at a 'new' diff (with all the fun I understand in sourcing GKN diffs).
I am open to all suggestions!
Many thanks
During a changedown to accelerate, I experienced an almighty bang/clunk and immediately lost all drive. Having got it home I can confirm no drive to the rear right wheel. I jacked the car up, and put it in gear to test. Left wheel gets drive, right none.
No clunking, whining, or any other indication of what happened at the time, during towing, or during jack test. No visual indication of mangled 'bits', snapped driveshafts, or missing teeth etc.
Your help would be most appreciated. Can things as simple as a stripped/blown CV joint do this, or am I almost certainly looking at a 'new' diff (with all the fun I understand in sourcing GKN diffs).
I am open to all suggestions!
Many thanks
Tiiazllm said:
95 Chim 4.0 - with I suspect a GKN diff
During a changedown to accelerate, I experienced an almighty bang/clunk and immediately lost all drive. Having got it home I can confirm no drive to the rear right wheel. I jacked the car up, and put it in gear to test. Left wheel gets drive, right none.
No clunking, whining, or any other indication of what happened at the time, during towing, or during jack test. No visual indication of mangled 'bits', snapped driveshafts, or missing teeth etc.
Your help would be most appreciated. Can things as simple as a stripped/blown CV joint do this, or am I almost certainly looking at a 'new' diff (with all the fun I understand in sourcing GKN diffs).
I am open to all suggestions!
Many thanks
As you are going to have to undo things to get the diff out, and you cannot see any movement from the drive shaft that side, it sounds like you might as well dismantle the drive shaft and CV joint and see if the fault is the easy one to fix, ie the CV joint. Well done on the diagnosis so far, sorry you have the problem.During a changedown to accelerate, I experienced an almighty bang/clunk and immediately lost all drive. Having got it home I can confirm no drive to the rear right wheel. I jacked the car up, and put it in gear to test. Left wheel gets drive, right none.
No clunking, whining, or any other indication of what happened at the time, during towing, or during jack test. No visual indication of mangled 'bits', snapped driveshafts, or missing teeth etc.
Your help would be most appreciated. Can things as simple as a stripped/blown CV joint do this, or am I almost certainly looking at a 'new' diff (with all the fun I understand in sourcing GKN diffs).
I am open to all suggestions!
Many thanks
IIRC, Central TVR is Stourbridge have a conversion bracket kit available to allow you to fit a BTR diff.
Assuming it is not a limited slip diff: With the car jacked up safely, both wheels off the ground and in gear engine running, did you try chocking the rotating wheel, thereby forcing the diff to turn the non moving wheel?
Be very careful doing this as it is not a safe practice.
If you stop the moving wheel, you should see the other side start to rotate. If it rotates at the diff but not the wheel then suspect the driveshaft/cv joints. If it doesn't rotate at the diff end then suspect the diff.
Be very careful doing this as it is not a safe practice.
If you stop the moving wheel, you should see the other side start to rotate. If it rotates at the diff but not the wheel then suspect the driveshaft/cv joints. If it doesn't rotate at the diff end then suspect the diff.
This happened to me a couple of weeks ago.
After a strip down, looks like a CV joint gave way and went pop. I suspected the diff before getting the car jacked up so I could have a proper look.
Once the car was jacked up and in gear I could turn the wheel by hand but the diff was locked. Drive shaft was turning in the joint neaerest to the diff.
Good luck.
After a strip down, looks like a CV joint gave way and went pop. I suspected the diff before getting the car jacked up so I could have a proper look.
Once the car was jacked up and in gear I could turn the wheel by hand but the diff was locked. Drive shaft was turning in the joint neaerest to the diff.
Good luck.
N7GTX said:
Assuming it is not a limited slip diff: With the car jacked up safely, both wheels off the ground and in gear engine running, did you try chocking the rotating wheel, thereby forcing the diff to turn the non moving wheel?
Be very careful doing this as it is not a safe practice.
If you stop the moving wheel, you should see the other side start to rotate. If it rotates at the diff but not the wheel then suspect the driveshaft/cv joints. If it doesn't rotate at the diff end then suspect the diff.
Thanks, that's pretty much precisely what I did! I only had one wheel jacked up at a time. With the engine running, I manually slowed and stopped the left hand rotating wheel, (just by my hand on the rubber)and could still hear gears/mechanisms/etc spinning - and that was with the right hand wheel on the ground. with the right hand wheel up it just didn't get powered around at all - although you could rotate it by hand without too much effort. You're correct in that I have no LSD.Be very careful doing this as it is not a safe practice.
If you stop the moving wheel, you should see the other side start to rotate. If it rotates at the diff but not the wheel then suspect the driveshaft/cv joints. If it doesn't rotate at the diff end then suspect the diff.
I'll have to go back under to check to confirm whether the OSR driveshaft is rotating behind wheel.
Do the CV boots/gators rotate with the assembly, or are they stationary and the driveshaft rotates 'through' the CV end hole? Actually I guess I should look to see what the left hand side does.
Many thanks
Mr Plow said:
This happened to me a couple of weeks ago.
After a strip down, looks like a CV joint gave way and went pop. I suspected the diff before getting the car jacked up so I could have a proper look.
Once the car was jacked up and in gear I could turn the wheel by hand but the diff was locked. Drive shaft was turning in the joint neaerest to the diff.
Good luck.
Thankyou, I was hoping to hear someone else may have experienced this kind of thing too - so just to confirm the CV which 'burst' in your case was attached to the diff? Did you replace just that one, or should you replace them in pairs, or even assume they all wear at the same rate and replace the lot? (I'm making an assumption on my problem being the same as yours!)After a strip down, looks like a CV joint gave way and went pop. I suspected the diff before getting the car jacked up so I could have a proper look.
Once the car was jacked up and in gear I could turn the wheel by hand but the diff was locked. Drive shaft was turning in the joint neaerest to the diff.
Good luck.
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