Repairing door mechanism + more
Discussion
Hello folks,
Thought I'd share the tale here of how a simple job has turned out a little more challenging than expected.
So, the other day a mate was opening the passenger door to get out with the centre release knob, when he managed to get it to do a full 180° and make it face the other way
It hasn't worked 100% right in my ownership, but was one of those jobs in TVR ownership which was a niggle, but was working to some extent and so not high on the list of priorities. The door release springs weren't working properly and the knob had some difficulty returning back to the centre. This prompted me to get the spanners out sooner. It meant removing the centre console.
I took a few pics of the wiring on the switches before removing the tunnel as a mental note.
With the transmission tunnel off it was time to see what the culprit was...
A closer look revealed that the springs were pretty mangled and deformed. It appears that the cable had just worn through and snapped...
So, having measured up the springs I went on fleabay to order some new ones. They arrived fairly quickly...
Bit of a difference...
Fitted them to the car, cutting the cable to fit accordingly with a small mini-drill. Luckily there's enough spare to be able to do this. In fact, there's probably enough there to be able to do it again in future...
I just crimped the ends of the cables as per factory spec.
But when putting everything back together (that tunnel is a tight fit..) the handbrake broke..
Pulled on it a bit too hard I think...
So, to find out the damage, I drilled out all the rivets around the rubber handbrake sleeve and gear stick (to gain access to the locking nuts that hold the door mechanism in place - conveniently over the handbrake gaiter that you want to remove...) and discovered that the bolt has sheered at chassis level...
Oh bummer!...
Anybody had/heard of this experience before? Don't want to do anything too OTT at this stage.
Thought I'd share the tale here of how a simple job has turned out a little more challenging than expected.
So, the other day a mate was opening the passenger door to get out with the centre release knob, when he managed to get it to do a full 180° and make it face the other way
It hasn't worked 100% right in my ownership, but was one of those jobs in TVR ownership which was a niggle, but was working to some extent and so not high on the list of priorities. The door release springs weren't working properly and the knob had some difficulty returning back to the centre. This prompted me to get the spanners out sooner. It meant removing the centre console.
I took a few pics of the wiring on the switches before removing the tunnel as a mental note.
With the transmission tunnel off it was time to see what the culprit was...
A closer look revealed that the springs were pretty mangled and deformed. It appears that the cable had just worn through and snapped...
So, having measured up the springs I went on fleabay to order some new ones. They arrived fairly quickly...
Bit of a difference...
Fitted them to the car, cutting the cable to fit accordingly with a small mini-drill. Luckily there's enough spare to be able to do this. In fact, there's probably enough there to be able to do it again in future...
I just crimped the ends of the cables as per factory spec.
But when putting everything back together (that tunnel is a tight fit..) the handbrake broke..
Pulled on it a bit too hard I think...
So, to find out the damage, I drilled out all the rivets around the rubber handbrake sleeve and gear stick (to gain access to the locking nuts that hold the door mechanism in place - conveniently over the handbrake gaiter that you want to remove...) and discovered that the bolt has sheered at chassis level...
Oh bummer!...
Anybody had/heard of this experience before? Don't want to do anything too OTT at this stage.
Somewhere on PH there is a post with pictures of how to fix this. Unfortunately I can't find it but perhaps someone else will come along to help.
This link however may help.I understand that the problem is not uncommon........
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
This link however may help.I understand that the problem is not uncommon........
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Mine sheared in the same place.
Soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and work the remains out with a center punch (as in un-wind it). It may take a little while and you need to take care with the thread in the chassis, but it is easily do-able.
It's just a basic M8 thread bolt for replacement.
Soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and work the remains out with a center punch (as in un-wind it). It may take a little while and you need to take care with the thread in the chassis, but it is easily do-able.
It's just a basic M8 thread bolt for replacement.
peaktorque said:
Mine sheared in the same place.
Soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and work the remains out with a center punch (as in un-wind it). It may take a little while and you need to take care with the thread in the chassis, but it is easily do-able.
It's just a basic M8 thread bolt for replacement.
Thanks peaktorque.Soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and work the remains out with a center punch (as in un-wind it). It may take a little while and you need to take care with the thread in the chassis, but it is easily do-able.
It's just a basic M8 thread bolt for replacement.
I tried that but it's stuck fast. It's frustrating too as it's just getting it going that's the problem. I drilled a small off-centre hole to act as an anchor for a punch and tried to chase it round, but it wasn't having any of it. Didn't want to mangle the bolt hole too much.
Went round to see a local engineering and fabrication company this eve. They certainly have some equipment there, so dropping the car off on Thursday morning. If it doesn't come out, maybe it's an angle grinder and re-fabrication job? Can't be doing without a handbrake...
peaktorque said:
Mine sheared in the same place.
Soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and work the remains out with a center punch (as in un-wind it). It may take a little while and you need to take care with the thread in the chassis, but it is easily do-able.
It's just a basic M8 thread bolt for replacement.
Forgot to ask - how did yours break? Still can't believe I broke an M8...Soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and work the remains out with a center punch (as in un-wind it). It may take a little while and you need to take care with the thread in the chassis, but it is easily do-able.
It's just a basic M8 thread bolt for replacement.
V8Mad said:
Forgot to ask - how did yours break? Still can't believe I broke an M8...
I bought the car with it already broken, but as I understand it the previous owner just applied it and it broke!Although when I replaced the bolt, the cable had seized on one side, which would have been putting excess strain on the pivot bolt.
peaktorque said:
I bought the car with it already broken, but as I understand it the previous owner just applied it and it broke!
Although when I replaced the bolt, the cable had seized on one side, which would have been putting excess strain on the pivot bolt.
Sounds like a weak spot. Cheap bolts? Although when I replaced the bolt, the cable had seized on one side, which would have been putting excess strain on the pivot bolt.
Tomorrow morning is the moment of truth... Fingers crossed.
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