Help: Coolant Leak from Cam Shaft Area
Discussion
Everyone,
Please can you help.Ihave had a new cam and cam followers for my 5.0 litre Chimaera. Over the past 2 weeks i have noticed a coolant leak coming from the central casting that has the cam wheel attached to it (it's the wheel that is directly above the crank shaft.
I know the mechanic had to take off this wheel, and the casting that is behind it (that has about 8 nuts holding it on). I could take it back to him but he's about 200 miles from me, so not so easy.
I want to do the work myself, but am a bit worried about taking the belt off, and any associated problems i may have from upsetting the timing of the crank and cam if i accidentally move one of the wheels when off.
I am not aware of how to take the belt off, and if there are any problems associated with taking this casting off and replacing the gasket.
Does anyone have any experience of changing this part.
A step by step guide would be a massive help.
Thanks in advance
Bandit
Please can you help.Ihave had a new cam and cam followers for my 5.0 litre Chimaera. Over the past 2 weeks i have noticed a coolant leak coming from the central casting that has the cam wheel attached to it (it's the wheel that is directly above the crank shaft.
I know the mechanic had to take off this wheel, and the casting that is behind it (that has about 8 nuts holding it on). I could take it back to him but he's about 200 miles from me, so not so easy.
I want to do the work myself, but am a bit worried about taking the belt off, and any associated problems i may have from upsetting the timing of the crank and cam if i accidentally move one of the wheels when off.
I am not aware of how to take the belt off, and if there are any problems associated with taking this casting off and replacing the gasket.
Does anyone have any experience of changing this part.
A step by step guide would be a massive help.
Thanks in advance
Bandit
quote:
Sounds like the water pump gasket or possibly the timing chain cover, probably the former. Not the biggest job in the world, but I'd get the car to a dealer/specialist to confirm the diagnosis and ensure you get the right bits to do this yourself.
T/.
That's right. The pulley you're looking at is driving the water pump. The cam drive chain is completely separate and hidden behind the front cover, and is unrelated except that the water pump would have had to come off when the cam was changed. Leaks from the water pump are not all that uncommon, and could come from the seal or a failed gasket. It's possible that it has just failed now because it was disturbed, and no fault of the mechanic. But if you get in touch, you may find they're sympathetic and willing to help you out, since they have been working in that area and *could* have caused the problem.
Hope this helps,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
Hi Bandit,
I have just got exactly the same problem, it is the timing cover gasket on mine, the one behind the water pump. Its not difficult but is a patience job. I have had to remove distributor, water pump, oil filter, crankshaft pulley (the worst bit cos it was very tight). PS anyone have the correct torque for the crankshaft pulley when I put it back tomorrow, unless I get summoned for a
or two!!
I am planning to replace the oil seal on the front of the timing cover & the sump gasket at the same time. Cost of bits including gasket seal £15.
There were times when I thought about sticking the car on a trailer to take it to a Mr Fix It though!
Good luck
Chris
I have just got exactly the same problem, it is the timing cover gasket on mine, the one behind the water pump. Its not difficult but is a patience job. I have had to remove distributor, water pump, oil filter, crankshaft pulley (the worst bit cos it was very tight). PS anyone have the correct torque for the crankshaft pulley when I put it back tomorrow, unless I get summoned for a
or two!! I am planning to replace the oil seal on the front of the timing cover & the sump gasket at the same time. Cost of bits including gasket seal £15.
There were times when I thought about sticking the car on a trailer to take it to a Mr Fix It though!
Good luck
Chris
When you do this, be prepared for oil pump priming problems if the car is a serp engine as the pump is in the timing cover. Pack it with vaseline and keep your fingers crossed. Use the starter to turn the engine over with no plugs in until you get pressure on the oil guage or the Low pressure light goes out.
Steve
Steve
quote:
PS anyone have the correct torque for the crankshaft pulley when I put it back tomorrow, unless I get summoned for a
Careful, the pulley is also acting as the crank shaft torsional damper. Can't remember the exact torque but it's huge, out of all proportion to the load going through the pulley.
Nope, use the Matt method to prime the pump, it's easier. The problem with the Rover is that the pump can't generate enough pnumatic suction to draw oil up into the pump body, while also pushing the resulting air out through the narrow oil ways.
1) Take out the spark plugs and disable the fuel pump by taking the fuse out.
2) Fill the engine with oil (at least 4 litres)
3) Fill the new filter with oil, and place close at hand.
4) Leave the filter off and wedge a clean container under the filter mounting to catch at least a pint of oil. (use a clean container and you can pour the oil back into the engine, after all Mobil 1 is about the price of cheap whisky).
5) Have a assistant crank the engine until oil is pouring out of the filter head. Screw on the filter quickly. You now have hydraulic suction into the pump body.
6) Crank the engine again until the oil light goes out.
7) Refit fuse and spark plugs.
8) Start engine and monitor the oil pressure guage.
9) Stop engine and top up oil as required.
Matt.
ps Steve, feel free to include this in the revised bible, can't claim a fee as a Ford mechanic told me about it some years ago.
1) Take out the spark plugs and disable the fuel pump by taking the fuse out.
2) Fill the engine with oil (at least 4 litres)
3) Fill the new filter with oil, and place close at hand.
4) Leave the filter off and wedge a clean container under the filter mounting to catch at least a pint of oil. (use a clean container and you can pour the oil back into the engine, after all Mobil 1 is about the price of cheap whisky).
5) Have a assistant crank the engine until oil is pouring out of the filter head. Screw on the filter quickly. You now have hydraulic suction into the pump body.
6) Crank the engine again until the oil light goes out.
7) Refit fuse and spark plugs.
8) Start engine and monitor the oil pressure guage.
9) Stop engine and top up oil as required.
Matt.
ps Steve, feel free to include this in the revised bible, can't claim a fee as a Ford mechanic told me about it some years ago.
Job done, thanks for the help guys.
Bandit, how did you get on? Did you attempt it? I have some info from a Land Rover manual that may help.
Midnight, one change to the above, as the fuel pump fuse is not shown in any of the books, had much trouble finding it. Ended up pulling a wire off the pump (Thanks Ian)
Chris
Bandit, how did you get on? Did you attempt it? I have some info from a Land Rover manual that may help.
Midnight, one change to the above, as the fuel pump fuse is not shown in any of the books, had much trouble finding it. Ended up pulling a wire off the pump (Thanks Ian)
Chris
Chris,
Thanks for the info. My Chimp is temporarily poorly while i await a new gasket through the post. A real shame as we had a scorcher of a weekend, but never mind.
It wasn't too difficult in the end, just a bit of a nightmare fitting the auto-tensioner back on.
Cheers (until next time)
Bandit
Thanks for the info. My Chimp is temporarily poorly while i await a new gasket through the post. A real shame as we had a scorcher of a weekend, but never mind.
It wasn't too difficult in the end, just a bit of a nightmare fitting the auto-tensioner back on.
Cheers (until next time)
Bandit
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff