Possible knackered battery
Discussion
Haven't driven the Chimp for about 2 weeks.
Went to start it Tuesday morning and nothing...starter solenoid fired but not enough to crank it over.
Plugged the accumate in and left it.
Accumate turned green within 24 hours (which made me suspicious, normally takes a coupe of days to get to that point from anything other than 90% charge).
Started the car this evening.
1st crank - slightly sluggish but fired as soon as the ECU started squirting
ran it for 30 seconds
2nd crank - not so good but it eventually fired
ran it for 20 seconds
3rd crank - only just managed to turn it over and it only fired once I'd turned the key off crank so the higher pd at the ecu managed to get it moving.
ran it for 30 seconds and then plugged the accumate back in.
It's got new main battery leads, higher capacity that stock (when the chassis was rebuilt earlier this year).
The battery is a high duty sealed unit from Halfords, about 4 years old, with a 5 year guarantee.
Until now (other than the usual flat battery from the old crap alarm system) it's always been OK.
I checked the main battery leads on the battery terminals and they're all tight and so is the earth on to the chassis in the foot well. Not checked the terminals on the started yet.
It's a step change in behaviour so I'm suspecting a knackered battery. Time to hunt the receipt and then take it back to Halfords for a replacement.
Any other thoughts?
Cheers,
Dave
Went to start it Tuesday morning and nothing...starter solenoid fired but not enough to crank it over.
Plugged the accumate in and left it.
Accumate turned green within 24 hours (which made me suspicious, normally takes a coupe of days to get to that point from anything other than 90% charge).
Started the car this evening.
1st crank - slightly sluggish but fired as soon as the ECU started squirting
ran it for 30 seconds
2nd crank - not so good but it eventually fired
ran it for 20 seconds
3rd crank - only just managed to turn it over and it only fired once I'd turned the key off crank so the higher pd at the ecu managed to get it moving.
ran it for 30 seconds and then plugged the accumate back in.
It's got new main battery leads, higher capacity that stock (when the chassis was rebuilt earlier this year).
The battery is a high duty sealed unit from Halfords, about 4 years old, with a 5 year guarantee.
Until now (other than the usual flat battery from the old crap alarm system) it's always been OK.
I checked the main battery leads on the battery terminals and they're all tight and so is the earth on to the chassis in the foot well. Not checked the terminals on the started yet.
It's a step change in behaviour so I'm suspecting a knackered battery. Time to hunt the receipt and then take it back to Halfords for a replacement.
Any other thoughts?
Cheers,
Dave
Sounds to me as if you have flattened it again by cranking it and knocking it off 3 times in succession.
Try the charger again but when you get it started let it run for a while, you can then plug the charger back in afterwards and see what happens.
Dont keep cranking the engine if you dont need to.
Try the charger again but when you get it started let it run for a while, you can then plug the charger back in afterwards and see what happens.
Dont keep cranking the engine if you dont need to.
I went to my TVR yesterday. Hadn't driven it since 18th November. Started first time with no hesitation. Modern gel battery.
I suspect your battery is beginning to fail.
My car spares independent has a proper battery tester. I would get it tested and then take it back to Halfords and exercise your guarantee. We have 6 cars between us and have had three reasonably new batteries fail in the last 12 months. It happens. There was never any argument.
You can waste acres of time faffing about with a failing battery.
I suspect your battery is beginning to fail.
My car spares independent has a proper battery tester. I would get it tested and then take it back to Halfords and exercise your guarantee. We have 6 cars between us and have had three reasonably new batteries fail in the last 12 months. It happens. There was never any argument.
You can waste acres of time faffing about with a failing battery.
Buy a new quality AGM battery, the type that's designed for cars with stop start technology.
Then fit a Battery Brain device, the one with the IR remote control that allows you to disconnect your new battery after you've locked the car.
http://www.batterybrain.co.uk/productspage.php
Problem solved... for ever!
Then fit a Battery Brain device, the one with the IR remote control that allows you to disconnect your new battery after you've locked the car.
http://www.batterybrain.co.uk/productspage.php
Problem solved... for ever!
chimp427 said:
Sounds to me as if you have flattened it again by cranking it and knocking it off 3 times in succession.
Try the charger again but when you get it started let it run for a while, you can then plug the charger back in afterwards and see what happens.
Dont keep cranking the engine if you dont need to.
I'd agree - 3 x starts from a suspect battery is a sure way of killing it.Try the charger again but when you get it started let it run for a while, you can then plug the charger back in afterwards and see what happens.
Dont keep cranking the engine if you dont need to.
Yes, get a proper load test done at Halfrauds/local motor factors. Have you ever allowed the battery to fully discharge during the 4 years? - Sure way of killing a battery.
Nick
The total cranking time during my test was about 10 to 12 seconds.
In the past, during other mucking about, it has cranked for more like 20 seconds and only then started to slow down.
The existing Halfords battery is only 570A, rather than the 630A recommended by Steve's book.
I have run the battery down a few times (when I wasn't disciplined about putting the charger on it).
Found a Varta Blue for £60 locally. I'll get the battery off tonight, stick it on charge and then get it tested tomorrow.
Has anyone gone to a battery shop with a suspect battery and been told that the battery is OK? Or is the 'battery knackered' symbol on the tester just a sticker??
In the past, during other mucking about, it has cranked for more like 20 seconds and only then started to slow down.
The existing Halfords battery is only 570A, rather than the 630A recommended by Steve's book.
I have run the battery down a few times (when I wasn't disciplined about putting the charger on it).
Found a Varta Blue for £60 locally. I'll get the battery off tonight, stick it on charge and then get it tested tomorrow.
Has anyone gone to a battery shop with a suspect battery and been told that the battery is OK? Or is the 'battery knackered' symbol on the tester just a sticker??
Unfortunately there are too many so-called experts when it comes to battery testing and the results are often wrong. e.g. you drive into Halfords/Kwik Fit after getting a bump/jump start. You drive for 20 minutes to get there. The chap puts his meter on the battery and it shows a good healthy 12.9 volts. Well, it will because you've just charged it but they seem to miss the point.
Get the battery charged up fully. Start the car and check the charging voltage is at least 13.8 volts, preferably nearer 14.2v. Charge the battery like this for at least 10 minutes.Turn the ignition off.
Ensure everything is switched off and then after 5 minutes check the battery voltage. It MUST be at least 12.6 volts (6 cells x 2.1v per cell). If it is not the battery needs replacing.
If the standing charge is 12.6v or above then carry out a load/drop test:
1. Switch the headlights on for 30 seconds. Switch off and check the standing charge. It might be around 11 or 12v ( or higher/lower than this).
2. Now with the meter attached, observe the readings.
3. The recovery rate - which determines how good a battery really is - should rise around 0.1v at roughly every 2 seconds or so. The better the battery the faster the recovery rate.
4. The recovery should continue all the way to the original reading or at least 12.6v.
5. If the recovery stalls at say, 12v then the battery needs replacing.
6. If it does not recover fully in 5-10 minutes then replace the battery.
Agree with above comment that once a battery has been discharged right down, they rarely if ever return to their original output.
Get the battery charged up fully. Start the car and check the charging voltage is at least 13.8 volts, preferably nearer 14.2v. Charge the battery like this for at least 10 minutes.Turn the ignition off.
Ensure everything is switched off and then after 5 minutes check the battery voltage. It MUST be at least 12.6 volts (6 cells x 2.1v per cell). If it is not the battery needs replacing.
If the standing charge is 12.6v or above then carry out a load/drop test:
1. Switch the headlights on for 30 seconds. Switch off and check the standing charge. It might be around 11 or 12v ( or higher/lower than this).
2. Now with the meter attached, observe the readings.
3. The recovery rate - which determines how good a battery really is - should rise around 0.1v at roughly every 2 seconds or so. The better the battery the faster the recovery rate.
4. The recovery should continue all the way to the original reading or at least 12.6v.
5. If the recovery stalls at say, 12v then the battery needs replacing.
6. If it does not recover fully in 5-10 minutes then replace the battery.
Agree with above comment that once a battery has been discharged right down, they rarely if ever return to their original output.
I always go to a good independent. I have had both "good" and "bad" come back as the result from their tester, so I trust it. Two batteries recently failed within a few months, neither was my fault. Both were Exide. The dealer commented that thy had a fair few Exide batteries fail, but hardly ever had an Oldham fail.......so I now buy Oldham and have not yet had a failure.
phillpot said:
N7GTX said:
The chap puts his meter on the battery and it shows a good healthy 12.9 volts.
They should be using a "discharge tester", not just a voltmeter.
I find it more accurate than fast fit centres with tyre fitters doing technical stuff they are not trained in.
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