that switch in the middle of the door release knob?
Discussion
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for that little plastic central locking switch that sits in the top of the door release knob? I broke mine when I dropped the hard bit of the hood on it... I have winkled the old one out (it took me a while to discover that it actually screws into the centre) and it says 'RAFI 1.15 1.06' on one side and '05/24' on the other.
Ian.
Ian.
t'I did sort the switch out, I even wrote it up but then forgot to add it to the post! Anyway, here it is...
The switch was the right one, so if your central lock/unlock switch is not working or is broken, here is how to change it:
You will need
A 1.5875mm/0.0625in/1/16” hex allen key
Switch, pushbutton, Momentary, Transparent switch RAFI 1.15.106.502/1500 which you can buy from Farnell Element 14 with their Part No. 9927590 at around £12.
Heat shrink sleeving & a hot air gun
A small soldering iron, solder and the skills to use them.
Note that although the switch contains an led, this does not work in this application so there is no need to go to the effort of adding a current limiting resistor.
Undo the hex grub screw holding the door release knob in place. (Be patient, it takes a while to get the allen key lined up) and lift off the door release knob.
Remove the gear knob (it may just turn off, taking care not to mark it with whatever you clamp over it, or it may need the cone underneath that acts as a locknut undone first) and the handbrake cover (mine is a Leven one with 3 more allen screws so I can’t say how the standard grip fits).
Undo the two cross head screws at front lower left and right of the centre console
Prise out the base of the coin tray with something blunt and undo two more cross head screws
Lift but do not remove the centre bit of the console (the bolsters stay in place) then undo the two connectors at the front for the window lift switches.
Take out the console, weaving it over the handbrake (easier if its in the on or up position).
Undo the 3 screws holding in the door release mechanism, noting that TVR used 3 nuts as spacers, one underneath each screw.
Now you can disconnect the connector to the switch. It has 3 wires to it, black, white & green.
Grip the switch body, the round black bit at the top of the tube, and gently unscrew it ensuring that the connecting cable is free to turn. Its quite a long and fine thread so lots of turns are needed.
Cut away the heat shrink sleeve and snip through each of the 3 wires leaving a few mm on the switch so that you can use it as a wiring template for the new one. Remove the remaining bit of cable and snip through the 3 wires near to the connector too, but no closer than 10 or 15mm. If you can, cut each wire at a different length so that when joined the joints do not line up.
The 6 switch terminals are marked, but not very clearly. A bright light and a magnifying glass helps. You should find one side has markings of ‘X1 1 3’ and the other side has ‘X2 2 4’. Only 4 terminals are used and when TVR fitted it they cut away the unused terminals but you don’t have to do this.
On the new switch unscrew the plastic retaining ring and discard it.
When wiring to the terminals remember that the switch has to screw into a metal tube so be careful to keep all joints and sleeves within the smaller diameter of the switch body. Wire as follows:
To the tag X1, marked with the red ’+’, solder the green wire.
Solder the black wire to tag X2 and link it to tag ‘3’ next to it.
Solder the white wire to tag ‘1’.
Check that your wiring to the new switch looks the same as the stubs you left on the old switch.
The switch works by making a momentary contact between 1 & 3 (black & white) when pressed. These contacts are ‘normally open’ or N/O. The other contacts 2 & 4 are a normally closed or N/C which is not used in this application. X1 and X2 are for the led which should flash when the switch is pressed but this function does not seem to be enabled so no need to put the 580 Ohm current limiting resistor that would otherwise be needed.
Put a length of heat shrink sleeve over the bundle of 3 wires and slide it over the contacts at the end of the switch then shrink in place so that the solder joints on the switch tags cannot touch the sides of the tube when refitted.
Thread the long cable back through the door release tube and gently screw the new switch into the tube.
Slide a bit of small heat shrink over each cut wire and then solder the connector back into place, green to green, white to white and black to black. Put the sleeve over each joint and shrink down.
Re-make the electrical connection. Test the switch and hopefully hear the door locks ‘clunk’.
Refit the door release mechanism with the 3 screws and spacers
Slide the console back into place, remake the two window switch connectors taking care that all the wiring underneath does not get trapped and then replace the 4 cross head screws.
Refit the gear knob, handbrake lever cover and finally the door release knob. You can make refitting easier by adjusting the grub screw until the knob will only just slide over the tube and carefully fit it with the hex allen key already in place, then a 1/4 turn will lock it in place.
Congratulate self on completing a job that no-one else will probably ever notice.
The switch was the right one, so if your central lock/unlock switch is not working or is broken, here is how to change it:
You will need
A 1.5875mm/0.0625in/1/16” hex allen key
Switch, pushbutton, Momentary, Transparent switch RAFI 1.15.106.502/1500 which you can buy from Farnell Element 14 with their Part No. 9927590 at around £12.
Heat shrink sleeving & a hot air gun
A small soldering iron, solder and the skills to use them.
Note that although the switch contains an led, this does not work in this application so there is no need to go to the effort of adding a current limiting resistor.
Undo the hex grub screw holding the door release knob in place. (Be patient, it takes a while to get the allen key lined up) and lift off the door release knob.
Remove the gear knob (it may just turn off, taking care not to mark it with whatever you clamp over it, or it may need the cone underneath that acts as a locknut undone first) and the handbrake cover (mine is a Leven one with 3 more allen screws so I can’t say how the standard grip fits).
Undo the two cross head screws at front lower left and right of the centre console
Prise out the base of the coin tray with something blunt and undo two more cross head screws
Lift but do not remove the centre bit of the console (the bolsters stay in place) then undo the two connectors at the front for the window lift switches.
Take out the console, weaving it over the handbrake (easier if its in the on or up position).
Undo the 3 screws holding in the door release mechanism, noting that TVR used 3 nuts as spacers, one underneath each screw.
Now you can disconnect the connector to the switch. It has 3 wires to it, black, white & green.
Grip the switch body, the round black bit at the top of the tube, and gently unscrew it ensuring that the connecting cable is free to turn. Its quite a long and fine thread so lots of turns are needed.
Cut away the heat shrink sleeve and snip through each of the 3 wires leaving a few mm on the switch so that you can use it as a wiring template for the new one. Remove the remaining bit of cable and snip through the 3 wires near to the connector too, but no closer than 10 or 15mm. If you can, cut each wire at a different length so that when joined the joints do not line up.
The 6 switch terminals are marked, but not very clearly. A bright light and a magnifying glass helps. You should find one side has markings of ‘X1 1 3’ and the other side has ‘X2 2 4’. Only 4 terminals are used and when TVR fitted it they cut away the unused terminals but you don’t have to do this.
On the new switch unscrew the plastic retaining ring and discard it.
When wiring to the terminals remember that the switch has to screw into a metal tube so be careful to keep all joints and sleeves within the smaller diameter of the switch body. Wire as follows:
To the tag X1, marked with the red ’+’, solder the green wire.
Solder the black wire to tag X2 and link it to tag ‘3’ next to it.
Solder the white wire to tag ‘1’.
Check that your wiring to the new switch looks the same as the stubs you left on the old switch.
The switch works by making a momentary contact between 1 & 3 (black & white) when pressed. These contacts are ‘normally open’ or N/O. The other contacts 2 & 4 are a normally closed or N/C which is not used in this application. X1 and X2 are for the led which should flash when the switch is pressed but this function does not seem to be enabled so no need to put the 580 Ohm current limiting resistor that would otherwise be needed.
Put a length of heat shrink sleeve over the bundle of 3 wires and slide it over the contacts at the end of the switch then shrink in place so that the solder joints on the switch tags cannot touch the sides of the tube when refitted.
Thread the long cable back through the door release tube and gently screw the new switch into the tube.
Slide a bit of small heat shrink over each cut wire and then solder the connector back into place, green to green, white to white and black to black. Put the sleeve over each joint and shrink down.
Re-make the electrical connection. Test the switch and hopefully hear the door locks ‘clunk’.
Refit the door release mechanism with the 3 screws and spacers
Slide the console back into place, remake the two window switch connectors taking care that all the wiring underneath does not get trapped and then replace the 4 cross head screws.
Refit the gear knob, handbrake lever cover and finally the door release knob. You can make refitting easier by adjusting the grub screw until the knob will only just slide over the tube and carefully fit it with the hex allen key already in place, then a 1/4 turn will lock it in place.
Congratulate self on completing a job that no-one else will probably ever notice.
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