Discussion
All home brew.
I have been getting side tracked as I am also restoring a 1945 Willys jeep so I am kind of bouncing between the two.
I have now got all the parts for the turbo install so I will be cracking on with that for now.
All I have to do is take the y section out and offer everything up in place and get the whole lot plumbed in. Then its just a case of getting the fuel map changed on the Megasquirt.
Interesting times..!
I have been getting side tracked as I am also restoring a 1945 Willys jeep so I am kind of bouncing between the two.
I have now got all the parts for the turbo install so I will be cracking on with that for now.
All I have to do is take the y section out and offer everything up in place and get the whole lot plumbed in. Then its just a case of getting the fuel map changed on the Megasquirt.
Interesting times..!
need to get the spec from home, got my work head on at the moment and cant remember gt35 (think).
No I have not done the exit yet. Should be straight forward though I would have thought..?
I am a bit concerned about the weight. I am half tempted to make a bracket to support the weight of the turbo..!
No I have not done the exit yet. Should be straight forward though I would have thought..?
I am a bit concerned about the weight. I am half tempted to make a bracket to support the weight of the turbo..!
Excellent stuff; great to see another home brew on the way! 
If the manifold flanges are not yet on the 'Y' piece, I'd pay very close attention to the fore/aft positioning of the turbo. In my experience this is by far the hardest thing to get right in order to make best use of the space. Don't assume there will be any available 'rotation' available on the flanges to counter any mis-positioning - the angle of the joint prevents this (I found this out the hard way).
Think you'll find that the Y plus the exhaust should be solid enough to hold the weight without additional bracketry unless you're planning on running enough boost to get the pipework glowing
If the manifold flanges are not yet on the 'Y' piece, I'd pay very close attention to the fore/aft positioning of the turbo. In my experience this is by far the hardest thing to get right in order to make best use of the space. Don't assume there will be any available 'rotation' available on the flanges to counter any mis-positioning - the angle of the joint prevents this (I found this out the hard way).
Think you'll find that the Y plus the exhaust should be solid enough to hold the weight without additional bracketry unless you're planning on running enough boost to get the pipework glowing
Edited by Pupp on Tuesday 12th January 20:32
Its been quite easy so far.
The only thing i thought i might have to lose is the bolt in cross brace..?
The manifold V clamps will be the last thing i weld up.
As for boost i am looking at very low levels to begin with.
What kind of changes will i be looking at for fuel and timing maps..? I guess fuel will need beefing up a lot.
The only thing i thought i might have to lose is the bolt in cross brace..?
The manifold V clamps will be the last thing i weld up.
As for boost i am looking at very low levels to begin with.
What kind of changes will i be looking at for fuel and timing maps..? I guess fuel will need beefing up a lot.
The cross brace may well need modding, if the turbo is high enough it can just be notched. Mine ended up needing the brace to be bridged due to the large frame turbo I used... I wouldn't run without it but am aware of others who have without issue. I assume you've sussed the height needed to allow the oil to drain OK?
Pupp said:
I assume you've sussed the height needed to allow the oil to drain OK?
I will be working out the height this weekend. I have left the 90 deg bends on the y section long so I can cut them back and make 3" --> 4" cones that will go from these bends to the exhaust manifolds.
I am thinking of just cutting the v bands off the original 'y' section and reusing them.
Is your turbo water cooled as well?
For my water feed I was thinking of taking off from the water feed going off the top of the water pump to heater and then connect the water out back up to the heater in tube if that makes sense.
Any pointers at this stage will be much appreciated..!
Richard 858 said:
andy-w said:
As for boost i am looking at very low levels to begin with.
That won't last long. 
Although it can be set to 11psi which I am NOT going to do...well I *might* try it out one day just for research.
8 psi from the off? Good luck with that 
The Y will be a lot easier with the car to hand to use as a jig- mine was fabbed to drawings and measurements away from the car as I'm no welder.
Yes, mine is a water cooled core - the feed is tee'd off from the heater loop near the swan neck - the return drops into the rad top hose literally next to the rad inlet... this works fine and, with the core clocked so the outlet is pointing higher than the inlet, seems to thermosiphon quite nicely after shut down. Have seen the blanked spur on the top nearside of the inlet manifold used for plumbing in turbos and doubt it makes a lot of difference in practice provided water can flow. A neat refinement to my solution will be to drop the heater loop into the top of the pump inlet (works really well if the rail is deleted and lines routed through the valley), and then the existing point on the swan neck can be dedicated to turbo only.
My initial expectation of much higher coolant temperatures never did materialise, but oil temps did markedly climb (and need addressing).
The Y will be a lot easier with the car to hand to use as a jig- mine was fabbed to drawings and measurements away from the car as I'm no welder.
Yes, mine is a water cooled core - the feed is tee'd off from the heater loop near the swan neck - the return drops into the rad top hose literally next to the rad inlet... this works fine and, with the core clocked so the outlet is pointing higher than the inlet, seems to thermosiphon quite nicely after shut down. Have seen the blanked spur on the top nearside of the inlet manifold used for plumbing in turbos and doubt it makes a lot of difference in practice provided water can flow. A neat refinement to my solution will be to drop the heater loop into the top of the pump inlet (works really well if the rail is deleted and lines routed through the valley), and then the existing point on the swan neck can be dedicated to turbo only.
My initial expectation of much higher coolant temperatures never did materialise, but oil temps did markedly climb (and need addressing).
Good to see someone else doing this. What size wastegate have you gone for?
I went the other way and placed the turbo in the engine bay and am building the manifold onto it. Only a week or two in so far but almost have the manifold tacked up ready for welding. I have just ordered my intercooler too.
If you could give me some info on your oil and water feed pipes that would be very handy. Do you know yet where you are taking the water from?
I hope your turbo is smaller than mine as mine is a tight squeeze and I don't think I could have fabbed up the manifold out of the car. A teaser of where I am:
I have a build thread going on Retrorides
I went the other way and placed the turbo in the engine bay and am building the manifold onto it. Only a week or two in so far but almost have the manifold tacked up ready for welding. I have just ordered my intercooler too.
If you could give me some info on your oil and water feed pipes that would be very handy. Do you know yet where you are taking the water from?
I hope your turbo is smaller than mine as mine is a tight squeeze and I don't think I could have fabbed up the manifold out of the car. A teaser of where I am:
I have a build thread going on Retrorides
Pupp said:
8 psi from the off? Good luck with that
My initial expectation of much higher coolant temperatures never did materialise, but oil temps did markedly climb (and need addressing).
You think I need to start lower than 8psi?My initial expectation of much higher coolant temperatures never did materialise, but oil temps did markedly climb (and need addressing).
I was thinking about the oil temperature and I might fit an oil cooler at a later date.
What sort of difference are you getting performance wise?
AceOfHearts said:
Good to see someone else doing this. What size wastegate have you gone for?
I went the other way and placed the turbo in the engine bay and am building the manifold onto it. Only a week or two in so far but almost have the manifold tacked up ready for welding. I have just ordered my intercooler too.
If you could give me some info on your oil and water feed pipes that would be very handy. Do you know yet where you are taking the water from?
I hope your turbo is smaller than mine as mine is a tight squeeze and I don't think I could have fabbed up the manifold out of the car.
Looks like your turbo is a similar size to mine.I went the other way and placed the turbo in the engine bay and am building the manifold onto it. Only a week or two in so far but almost have the manifold tacked up ready for welding. I have just ordered my intercooler too.
If you could give me some info on your oil and water feed pipes that would be very handy. Do you know yet where you are taking the water from?
I hope your turbo is smaller than mine as mine is a tight squeeze and I don't think I could have fabbed up the manifold out of the car.
I am going to take the y section out tomorrow providing the snow stops and start to make the last bits.
As for the pipes I will dig out the specs tonight.
caduceus said:
All these people doing turbo conversions, but I have yet to see ANY video footage of one running down the road. Come on chaps, i wanna hear one 
As soon as mine is up and running I will post a clip.downside is my exhaust is already a straight though with no pre-cats. Once the turbo is in place it will be completely straight through so I think it is going to be very loud..!
Just out of interest does anyone have any idea how much the fuelling should be changed?
I am running a megasquirt. I would assume it is going to require increasing by quite a lot?
Edited by andy-w on Thursday 14th January 11:00
I am also Megasquirt (MS2). Mine is currently running Alpha N (Throttle Position Sensor only) but once the turbo is installed I will also have to plumb in the built in MAP sensor and run the ECU on Hybrid Alpha N so that it can make adjustments to the fuelling dependant on how much boost is being produced. This means there will be two VE tables and it will be tuned so that over 100kpa (atmospheric pressure) it will be using the MAP sensor VE table.
I believe it is the same on the ignition side as under boost the ignition will want to be retarded.
I have not looked into any of this yet, but I will just be creating a rough guess map so that I can get the car to Dale at Bailey Performance for proper dyno tuning.
I believe it is the same on the ignition side as under boost the ignition will want to be retarded.
I have not looked into any of this yet, but I will just be creating a rough guess map so that I can get the car to Dale at Bailey Performance for proper dyno tuning.
clive f said:
turbo looks like its sat quite high, is the top of the 3" bend going t be a bit close to the underside of the bonnet?
Bonnet closes fine but I have not checked clearances yet. I had no choice but the put the turbo that high as the HX35 I am using is physically a lot larger than the GT35 style turbos and even as it is it is quite close to the diagonal cross member underneath it. De to the size the manifold is also not going to be symmetrical (difficult to see from the pictures).I will definitely be getting plenty of videos once it is up and running
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