new owner.....very happy so far.help appreciated
Discussion
hello,just bought a 93 chim,i love it....ok its not perfect(notchy gearbox,revs dip at idle sometimes!)it has the front headlight conversion and newer style rearlights(i know some of u guys dont like the conversions but i prefer it as it looks more modern).right..now the questions.....does this tvr bible tell u what parts are used where as i will want to get parts as cheap as poss.where is cheap,good upholsterer as seats have seen better days.how much?i have a brown roof,anybody outhere dyed one black...good results?how much for new one and is rear section easy to change?chassis has some rust(just treated/waxoyled)what future probs if rust gets bad?.i gonna drive this car abroad,what spare essentials are recomended.thanks for help
Welcome, glad to see you bought a chim, you won't regret it!! We have a 95. Tjhe seats were a bit softso we had them restuffed, very reasonable, posted them off to a place in Pompey where they only had them a few weeks, will check if they do uphostery as well and get back to you.
There was a thread on here recently about dying the hood, check via the search option.
There was a thread on here recently about dying the hood, check via the search option.
Post some pics of the beastie! Welcome to the madhouse.
Rust really is only a problem if you don't keep on top of it. The two places to really watch are the outriggers (down the sides) These get a lot of grief from stones etc thrown up from the wheels and will need regular coats of something like POR-15 (www.frost.co.uk) followed by a healthy coating of Waxoyl to keep in tiptop condition. The top of these is pretty hard to get to and depends if you want to keep it look neat down there or not - mine personally looks a mess as I have poked a brush all round and over the top of them with Grey POR-15.
The other place to watch is the top front wishbones. Even on my 17000 mile 5 year old Chim (that never see's rain/snow) these had a lot of rust on. Again just clean off the bubbled power coating and coat liberally is POR-15 (it prefers a rusty surface to bond with)
Sorted
Rust really is only a problem if you don't keep on top of it. The two places to really watch are the outriggers (down the sides) These get a lot of grief from stones etc thrown up from the wheels and will need regular coats of something like POR-15 (www.frost.co.uk) followed by a healthy coating of Waxoyl to keep in tiptop condition. The top of these is pretty hard to get to and depends if you want to keep it look neat down there or not - mine personally looks a mess as I have poked a brush all round and over the top of them with Grey POR-15.
The other place to watch is the top front wishbones. Even on my 17000 mile 5 year old Chim (that never see's rain/snow) these had a lot of rust on. Again just clean off the bubbled power coating and coat liberally is POR-15 (it prefers a rusty surface to bond with)
Sorted
tattoodrob said:
i now have pic of car on member profile and could only put one photo so couldnt put bikes(they are both choppers,as i have only just grown out of pure sports bikes,im gettin old)
Tip of the day: You can use the Notes field as a link to the url of your bike picture. That way you can have two piccies on your profile page.
_tattoodrob said:
dont confuse me anymore ,it was hardwork gettin one photo up......i cant find notes bit u talk about....only a browse option!nevermind i aint no computer minded person.thanks anyway
For ref, the Notes field is at the bottom of your Profile page.
At least you know you can post an extra picture if you wanted to in the future.
puffsorted said:
The two places to really watch are the outriggers (down the sides) These get a lot of grief from stones etc
Actually the reason is more basic - TVR used metal components that were inadequately protected against corrosion - stones or no stones. If you buy a used TVR where previous owner(s) have failed to apply regular corrosion prevention, all of these components (wishbones/outriggers etc) are in jeopardy. Bearing in mind the loading that these components are subjected to as a performance car the outcome of failure could be catastrophic. So the advice about thoroughly checking these is absolutely essential - painting protection on already corroded items is of course futile.
hut49 said:
The two places to really watch are the outriggers (down the sides) These get a lot of grief from stones etc
Actually the reason is more basic - TVR used metal components that were inadequately protected against corrosion - stones or no stones. If you buy a used TVR where previous owner(s) have failed to apply regular corrosion prevention, all of these components (wishbones/outriggers etc) are in jeopardy. Bearing in mind the loading that these components are subjected to as a performance car the outcome of failure could be catastrophic. So the advice about thoroughly checking these is absolutely essential - painting protection on already corroded items is of course futile.
thanks but surely covering corrosion will slow it down,i used that rust cure that is supposed to turn it into hard metal again and then painted over that!!!
has any one else outhere had chassis work,can u get away with welding or what,mine cant be the only one with some chassis rust....it passed the mot only a month ago!!
rooster said:
Welcome, glad to see you bought a chim, you won't regret it!! We have a 95. Tjhe seats were a bit softso we had them restuffed, very reasonable, posted them off to a place in Pompey where they only had them a few weeks, will check if they do uphostery as well and get back to you.
There was a thread on here recently about dying the hood, check via the search option.
i tried search option ancd couldnt find...how recent was it,thanks
Welcome Rob
All the talk about hood dye, revolves arround a company called Renovo. They do the dye which is designed to re-colour hoods, but i assume that if you put enough coats on, it will change brown to black. You would still have a brown inside though! With the seats, try lots of good hide food to soften up the leather, which can help to revive the finish.
Removing the rear hood is quite straight forward, as is glueing on a replacement, but you do need to be carefull with the tension, and getting it correctly lined up. I took mine off to repair a spilt screen and the middle is still a little baggy..
As for all the nonsense on these forums about blue ones being fastest, yellow ones, or even the lovely green ones, deep down eveybody knows that Grey ones are the greatest!!!
All the talk about hood dye, revolves arround a company called Renovo. They do the dye which is designed to re-colour hoods, but i assume that if you put enough coats on, it will change brown to black. You would still have a brown inside though! With the seats, try lots of good hide food to soften up the leather, which can help to revive the finish.
Removing the rear hood is quite straight forward, as is glueing on a replacement, but you do need to be carefull with the tension, and getting it correctly lined up. I took mine off to repair a spilt screen and the middle is still a little baggy..
As for all the nonsense on these forums about blue ones being fastest, yellow ones, or even the lovely green ones, deep down eveybody knows that Grey ones are the greatest!!!
The Surveyor said:
Welcome Rob
All the talk about hood dye, revolves arround a company called Renovo. They do the dye which is designed to re-colour hoods, but i assume that if you put enough coats on, it will change brown to black. You would still have a brown inside though! With the seats, try lots of good hide food to soften up the leather, which can help to revive the finish.
Removing the rear hood is quite straight forward, as is glueing on a replacement, but you do need to be carefull with the tension, and getting it correctly lined up. I took mine off to repair a spilt screen and the middle is still a little baggy..
As for all the nonsense on these forums about blue ones being fastest, yellow ones, or even the lovely green ones, deep down eveybody knows that Grey ones are the greatest!!!
my passener seat is beyond food me thinks as has very large and dark cracks,passengers side not too bad.i might try dyeing the hood in summer,i dont mind it brown but the lift out section has been recovered and left it browner than rear part.u may believe grey ones are the greytest! but i know that starmist green ones with 2 tone brown roofs are much sought after,thanks
tvrbob said:
Your rev dip is a dirty stepper motor.... and using good fuel, Optimax or other fuel with inbuilt cleaner, will keep the stepper clean for longer.
How does that work - I thought the stepper motor just let some air into the intake manifold before fuel was injected. I can't see how any fuel cleaner will affect stepper motor cleaning.
Could you please elaborate for my tiny little brain. (I always use Optimax anyway)Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff