Discussion
Hey chaps,
Been a while since I posted on this forum (had a Chim 500 a while back).
I just bought a Chim 400, but not sure if the clutch is on the way out!
Car has only done 26000 miles, but the bite point is right at the top, like RIGHT at the top!
Can I check easily if I do need a new clutch? I remember the seals on my master cylinder goung before on the old Chim, just wondering if this could cause the high bite point?
What can I do to check?
Thanks and good to be back!
Been a while since I posted on this forum (had a Chim 500 a while back).
I just bought a Chim 400, but not sure if the clutch is on the way out!
Car has only done 26000 miles, but the bite point is right at the top, like RIGHT at the top!
Can I check easily if I do need a new clutch? I remember the seals on my master cylinder goung before on the old Chim, just wondering if this could cause the high bite point?
What can I do to check?
Thanks and good to be back!
The hydraulic elements are effectively self adjusting although the bite point will still change as the clutch wears.
Do check for fluid leaks at the slave and master cylinder, and the fluid level level at the master cylinder which TVR mounted at an angle so the reservoir actually holds very little fluid, but in reality other than someone fitting the wrong sized master or slave cylinder which will alter the the way the clutch pedal feels I think you can safely rule out the hydraulic elements.
Moving on from the hydraulics, I recommend trying these two simple clutch slip tests:
1. Try to pull away in a higher gear 2nd or 3rd
2. Take the car out for run an where its safe accelerate hard in 3rd gear to 5,000rpm
One or other of these tests (and probably both) will soon reveal if the the clutch truly is slipping.
Don't forget the clutch pedal is adjustable, and just 5-10mm of adjustment at the pedal can significantly change how the clutch feels, even though in real terms the bite point has not been altered at all.
Finally I can confirm the clutch on my 4.0HC Chimaera started to slip around the 30,000 mile mark, the slip was only revealed when I accelerated hard in 3rd or 4th and the engine spinning over 4,000rpm (test 2).
The clutch fitted to the 5.0 litre cars was the far superior AP unit, so while the 5.0 litre cars produce a lot more torque the clutch in my experience is actually longer lived than the rather inadequate effort TVR used on the 4.0 litre cars.
Do check for fluid leaks at the slave and master cylinder, and the fluid level level at the master cylinder which TVR mounted at an angle so the reservoir actually holds very little fluid, but in reality other than someone fitting the wrong sized master or slave cylinder which will alter the the way the clutch pedal feels I think you can safely rule out the hydraulic elements.
Moving on from the hydraulics, I recommend trying these two simple clutch slip tests:
1. Try to pull away in a higher gear 2nd or 3rd
2. Take the car out for run an where its safe accelerate hard in 3rd gear to 5,000rpm
One or other of these tests (and probably both) will soon reveal if the the clutch truly is slipping.
Don't forget the clutch pedal is adjustable, and just 5-10mm of adjustment at the pedal can significantly change how the clutch feels, even though in real terms the bite point has not been altered at all.
Finally I can confirm the clutch on my 4.0HC Chimaera started to slip around the 30,000 mile mark, the slip was only revealed when I accelerated hard in 3rd or 4th and the engine spinning over 4,000rpm (test 2).
The clutch fitted to the 5.0 litre cars was the far superior AP unit, so while the 5.0 litre cars produce a lot more torque the clutch in my experience is actually longer lived than the rather inadequate effort TVR used on the 4.0 litre cars.
Thanks Chimp,
Yep found the clutch does slip if I accelerate hard in 3rd!!!
Does that rule out the option of adjusting the clutch pedal or checking the fluids etc and indicating a new clutch needed?
Is this a job a DIYer can do at home?
Any idea how much it would cost for parts and how much to have done at a garage?
Do I need to go to a TVR garage for the clutch?
Thanks
Yep found the clutch does slip if I accelerate hard in 3rd!!!
Does that rule out the option of adjusting the clutch pedal or checking the fluids etc and indicating a new clutch needed?
Is this a job a DIYer can do at home?
Any idea how much it would cost for parts and how much to have done at a garage?
Do I need to go to a TVR garage for the clutch?
Thanks
Ian187 said:
Yep found the clutch does slip if I accelerate hard in 3rd!!!
I'm afraid that sounds very much like you'll be needing a new clutch then.Ian187 said:
Does that rule out the option of adjusting the clutch pedal or checking the fluids etc and indicating a new clutch needed?
I'm afraid so, yes.Ian187 said:
Is this a job a DIYer can do at home?
Depends on your skills, equipment and willingness to do it yourself, but yes it can be done at home on axle stands, personally I'd let someone with a proper ramp do it for you.Ian187 said:
Any idea how much it would cost for parts and how much to have done at a garage?
It depends on the parts you choose, the AP clutch seems well respected but it is expensive, I went with the nice "light on the foot" offering from Lloyd Specialist Developments and I'm very happy with it so far. Fitting costs will vary so ring around and ask how they approach the TVR gear linkage as their answer will tell you if they know what they are doing. Avoid anyone that doesn't answer this linkage question with confidence because it indicates they've never put a clutch in a Chimaera, treat such responses with suspicion and assume they'll bend the sliding rod when they take the box out, expect a nasty gear change after the job is done as a direct result of the bent sliding rod. Ian187 said:
Do I need to go to a TVR garage for the clutch?
No, but it does ensure you get the right parts first time, although you will pay a premium using a TVR parts specialist you may find it works out cheaper in the long run.The moment you discover you've bought the wrong parts will be the same moment you wished you'd paid a few more quid to get the right part at a TVR parts specialist. As above I'd also recommend choosing someone to do the job who's done it before, they will be faster and the possibility of damaging the linkage is greatly reduced, this also means they'll be cheaper in the long run too. Good luck with it
Sounds stupid I know, but you are taking your foot off of the clutch aren't you. I'm a nightmare for that as I'm always driving autos and I only have to rest my foot on the clutch to make it slip if I'm flooring it in 3rd gear, do it every so often and have to remind myself to put my foot on the floor. 
Thanks chaps,
I'll ask around see what prices they come back with.
Yeah I know what you mean about taking foot totally off, but it def is.
Another stupid question, but if I did have a go at doing it myself (seems there are a few how to's and I'm not in a rush!) would I just need the clutch plate or the whole clutch kit (the kit seems to be twice the price if not more, what else do you get in the kit?)
I would have thought it was just the plate that wears, but then the full kit sounds like what people must buy??
At the end of the day if garage just wants a couple of hundred quid (labour) for doing the job then I might do that.
I'll ask around see what prices they come back with.
Yeah I know what you mean about taking foot totally off, but it def is.
Another stupid question, but if I did have a go at doing it myself (seems there are a few how to's and I'm not in a rush!) would I just need the clutch plate or the whole clutch kit (the kit seems to be twice the price if not more, what else do you get in the kit?)
I would have thought it was just the plate that wears, but then the full kit sounds like what people must buy??
At the end of the day if garage just wants a couple of hundred quid (labour) for doing the job then I might do that.
Ian187 said:
Thanks chaps,
I'll ask around see what prices they come back with.
Yeah I know what you mean about taking foot totally off, but it def is.
Another stupid question, but if I did have a go at doing it myself (seems there are a few how to's and I'm not in a rush!) would I just need the clutch plate or the whole clutch kit (the kit seems to be twice the price if not more, what else do you get in the kit?)
I would have thought it was just the plate that wears, but then the full kit sounds like what people must buy??
At the end of the day if garage just wants a couple of hundred quid (labour) for doing the job then I might do that.
if you go to the trouble of stripping it down to change the clutch do it right and change everything, the fingers can get weak but who knows till your in there I'll ask around see what prices they come back with.
Yeah I know what you mean about taking foot totally off, but it def is.
Another stupid question, but if I did have a go at doing it myself (seems there are a few how to's and I'm not in a rush!) would I just need the clutch plate or the whole clutch kit (the kit seems to be twice the price if not more, what else do you get in the kit?)
I would have thought it was just the plate that wears, but then the full kit sounds like what people must buy??
At the end of the day if garage just wants a couple of hundred quid (labour) for doing the job then I might do that.
As above - the reason you change the lot is that it's quite a lot of work to get it all of and back on again - so rather than do the job twice, change everything while you are at it.
I changed the clutch on a Mini on my drive when I was 23. I wished I hadn't. I did manage it, but it took me three weeks as its a job for an expert with the right tools.
I recently had the head gasket go on my daily driver, a car with a twin overhead cam and a turbo. I had also noticed it was using a hell of a lot of oil (a litre a week). So while my trusty TVR expert had the engine in pieces (I went to him because I trust him and his skills), I had him look at everything else on the engine and had a lengthy discussion with him and the parts specialist. We ended up buying a complete head gasket kit, new piston rings, new crankshaft shells (well, they were only £2.50 each) and a new timing chain kit. Over £500 on parts, and then £1300 on labour and oils etc, which included honing the bores and specialist work on the head. But at the end of it I have an engine that pulls like a train and that I can trust for the next 100,000 miles and that has so far used half a litre of oil in 10,000 miles. The peace of mind makes it worth every penny.
I changed the clutch on a Mini on my drive when I was 23. I wished I hadn't. I did manage it, but it took me three weeks as its a job for an expert with the right tools.
I recently had the head gasket go on my daily driver, a car with a twin overhead cam and a turbo. I had also noticed it was using a hell of a lot of oil (a litre a week). So while my trusty TVR expert had the engine in pieces (I went to him because I trust him and his skills), I had him look at everything else on the engine and had a lengthy discussion with him and the parts specialist. We ended up buying a complete head gasket kit, new piston rings, new crankshaft shells (well, they were only £2.50 each) and a new timing chain kit. Over £500 on parts, and then £1300 on labour and oils etc, which included honing the bores and specialist work on the head. But at the end of it I have an engine that pulls like a train and that I can trust for the next 100,000 miles and that has so far used half a litre of oil in 10,000 miles. The peace of mind makes it worth every penny.
Ian187 said:
Ouch!!!
Dealers are looking at about £650 + vat!!!
Is there much difference between the AP clutch as opposed to the kits offered at Racing Green.
Racing Green seems a lot cheaper, chap there says they are very good clutches (but then he would say that! Ha..)
Did you ask TVRSSW in Taunton (or wherever they are)?Dealers are looking at about £650 + vat!!!
Is there much difference between the AP clutch as opposed to the kits offered at Racing Green.
Racing Green seems a lot cheaper, chap there says they are very good clutches (but then he would say that! Ha..)
Talk to these people about options for your clutch parts.
http://www.clutch-specialists.co.uk/
Excellent service and don't charge the earth.
http://www.clutch-specialists.co.uk/
Excellent service and don't charge the earth.
QBee said:
Did you ask TVRSSW in Taunton (or wherever they are)?
Haven't tried them, but might give them a shout.I see the clutch plate by itself is less than £70 (including vat) from racing green, just a shame there's so much effort in changing it otherwise I'd be tempted to just give that a go!
I'll try TVR SSW, cheers
Ian187 said:
QBee said:
Did you ask TVRSSW in Taunton (or wherever they are)?
Haven't tried them, but might give them a shout.I see the clutch plate by itself is less than £70 (including vat) from racing green, just a shame there's so much effort in changing it otherwise I'd be tempted to just give that a go!
I'll try TVR SSW, cheers
If the clutch is slipping, it's due to wear of the friction faces, deterioration of clamping force, oil contamination of friction faces, or a combination of these. There's nothing to adjust.
Beware of cheapo plates, especially as sold on EBay with completely misleading images of branded packaging being shown
Beware of cheapo plates, especially as sold on EBay with completely misleading images of branded packaging being shown
Pupp said:
If the clutch is slipping, it's due to wear of the friction faces, deterioration of clamping force, oil contamination of friction faces, or a combination of these. There's nothing to adjust.
Beware of cheapo plates, especially as sold on EBay with completely misleading images of branded packaging being shown
Ohh I certainly wasn't thinking of buying anything from eBay, Racing Green seems to have a comprehensive catalogue of TVR parts. Has anyone here used them before?Beware of cheapo plates, especially as sold on EBay with completely misleading images of branded packaging being shown
QBee said:
You might book a time to pop over with the car for a diagnosis. It might after all just not be terminal clutch slip but something they can adjust. Colin and his team are good guys and knowledgable. And no, I am not a customer, but my TVR expert speaks highly of them.
I am a TVRSSW customer and travel from Essex to them. Colin and his team certainly know their stuff. QBee, Who do you use, out of interest? A collegue was asking where to take his.
Cheers
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