HELP....boot won't open / unlock / release
Discussion
Just home from picking up my son and went to get his luggage out of the boot.
I pressed the button under the dash (with ignition on) and nothing happened.
The tried the button on the key fob (Carl Baker alarm fitted last year) still nothing although the indicators flash as they usually do when the boot is released.
Fuse is fine and the electric mirrors (which my handbook says are on the same 10amp fuse work fine).
Any ideas and more importantly how can I get in the boot now to get my son's stuff out... ?????
I have tried to undo the cross headed bolt behind the numberplate that I was hoping might help but it was sprayed over when the car was resprayed so won't budge
Thanks
David
I pressed the button under the dash (with ignition on) and nothing happened.
The tried the button on the key fob (Carl Baker alarm fitted last year) still nothing although the indicators flash as they usually do when the boot is released.
Fuse is fine and the electric mirrors (which my handbook says are on the same 10amp fuse work fine).
Any ideas and more importantly how can I get in the boot now to get my son's stuff out... ?????
I have tried to undo the cross headed bolt behind the numberplate that I was hoping might help but it was sprayed over when the car was resprayed so won't budge
Thanks
David
Boot motors (sometimes called solenoids)are notorious for burning out. Frequently due to the dash button sticking in see:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/boot-motor-failure.htm...
For a possible solution
http://www.bertram-hill.com/boot-motor-failure.htm...
For a possible solution
Voltage at the solenoid with both the button on the keyfob and the dash switch suggests the solenoid and when I connected the solenoid to a 12v source, nothing happened.
New solenoid ordered off ebay, probably from China originally but looks identical to the photo on well known TVR parts supplier.
I tried looking on line for just the motor having dismantled the solenoid (which isn't a solenoid in the true sense of the word) but difficult to find an exact match for the length of the output shaft and cog design.
Loubaruch, that link is very interested but beyond my basic grasp of "electrickery", if there was someone out there who was prepared to make these boxes up I'm sure there'd be a great deal of interest in buying them, along with the much discussed box to sort out the speedo signal used by the ECU for idling.....
Is there anyone out there with the inclination ?
New solenoid ordered off ebay, probably from China originally but looks identical to the photo on well known TVR parts supplier.
I tried looking on line for just the motor having dismantled the solenoid (which isn't a solenoid in the true sense of the word) but difficult to find an exact match for the length of the output shaft and cog design.
Loubaruch, that link is very interested but beyond my basic grasp of "electrickery", if there was someone out there who was prepared to make these boxes up I'm sure there'd be a great deal of interest in buying them, along with the much discussed box to sort out the speedo signal used by the ECU for idling.....
Is there anyone out there with the inclination ?
Edited by The Horse on Monday 7th March 12:41
Went for petrol yesterday and the boot solenoid worked. Today, nothing. Not even a click. Typical.
Mirrors still work so not the fuse.
Mine is the facelift version so I'm struggling to find how to get in the boot otherwise.
Edit: OK, got it open. Now I need to try and get a replacement solenoid. It's got Ford written on it. One of the 3 wires is cut back.

Mirrors still work so not the fuse. Mine is the facelift version so I'm struggling to find how to get in the boot otherwise.
Edit: OK, got it open. Now I need to try and get a replacement solenoid. It's got Ford written on it. One of the 3 wires is cut back.
Edited by ianwayne on Monday 7th March 15:58
I had this happen on mine after the interior refit
went through everything checked all the wiring in the boot etc.
Turned out to be a dodgy connection in the wiring on the passenger side (I think) behind the panel in the rear wing.
Cleaned up the connectors (which I thought I had already done previously but obviously not good enough) and hey presto all working
Hope this helps
Cheers
went through everything checked all the wiring in the boot etc.
Turned out to be a dodgy connection in the wiring on the passenger side (I think) behind the panel in the rear wing.
Cleaned up the connectors (which I thought I had already done previously but obviously not good enough) and hey presto all working

Hope this helps
Cheers
Good old fleabay. £4.99.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381539989644?_trksid=p20...
Exactly the right part number.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381539989644?_trksid=p20...
Exactly the right part number.
If the Chimera dash has a pointless Panic button (as does the Griffith) a simpler fix to avoid a sticking boot opening button burning out the motor is to wire the boot button though the panic button so both have to be pressed to open the boot. The chances of both sticking in at the same time are much less likely.
Ok, who spotted I'd identified the wrong thing. 
The blue thing shown earlier is just the alarm microswitch on the boot lock. Pulling back the rest of the carpet and undoing 2 screws allows you to drop the solenoid and its plate. 2 more screws and you have this:

Very similar to door lock ones. Maplins or ebay for another, haven't decided yet!

The blue thing shown earlier is just the alarm microswitch on the boot lock. Pulling back the rest of the carpet and undoing 2 screws allows you to drop the solenoid and its plate. 2 more screws and you have this:
Very similar to door lock ones. Maplins or ebay for another, haven't decided yet!
I got mine on ebay, very prompt delivery and came with a very strong rod to connect the actuator to the lock.
The trouble was that the initial problem (as it turns out) was caused by the push switch under the dash sticking and the replacement actuator has burnt out now too.
Is the push switch easy to remove ? The switch only seems to stick (or is worse) when the footwell heater blower is on as the switch gets warm.
Alternatively I could disconnect the switch and rely on the key fob.......
The trouble was that the initial problem (as it turns out) was caused by the push switch under the dash sticking and the replacement actuator has burnt out now too.
Is the push switch easy to remove ? The switch only seems to stick (or is worse) when the footwell heater blower is on as the switch gets warm.
Alternatively I could disconnect the switch and rely on the key fob.......
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