Track day damper settings

[QBee]

I changed my dampers a year ago from Gaz Gold Pros to Racing Reds.

In my GGP days I wound the front dampers up to max hard with stiff springs (500 lb), but kept the rears soft - 6 clicks from max soft - as the rear end hopped on tight bends otherwise. I had 400 lb springs on the rears.

Changed to Racing Reds, better dampers in my opinion, reduced the spring rates by about 100 lbs on advice.
On track I still wind the front dampers up pretty hard, but cannot seem to get the rears right, I did have them right at Castle Combe last year, but cannot remember the setting now.

So I am after ideas/opinions please. I need the car to handle predictably at the limit on track, so that I can catch the slide, not lose it.

[Richard 858]

I have the same dampers Anthony and have just had all 4 serviced by Nitron so I know they are in good order. On road & track I have the rears at 20 clicks (max is 36) on 400lb springs and I find this fine but am still experimenting. I have 475lb springs up front and run at 25 clicks on the road and am experimenting with anything between 32 clicks and max. Gurston Down Hillclimb tomorrow so more learning to do & I'll report back with findings. Hope Curborough wasn't too wet today & that fun will be had at Shakey!

[QBee]

Thanks Richard. I await with interest.
Curborough was a washout. My first run, as it started to rain (again) the car was a bit slidey but ok, on Toyo R1Rs.
Second run it had been raining lightly for half an hour, I did one third of the run wondering what I was going to hit when I lost the rear end, aborted and went home.

[SILICONEKID345HP]

What would happen if front and rear were adjusted to max stiffness ?

[NTEL]

How is the car behaving?

[QBee]

I was advised to crank them all up to max stiff - it was a bit twitchy.
I just don't seem to be able to get it to grip properly at the rear recently, yet had it working fine last summer.

To be fair, everyone was struggling for grip last time out at Hullavington. Nobody got any marbles on their track tyres. But mine was also under steering quite badly through tight corners, as if the tyres weren't gripping as they should (AO48s).

I probably need to take it to a track i know, Snetterton or Cadwell, and spend a nice warm day trying out different settings until I get it right.

What I was looking for was suggestions please.

[TV8]

Hi Anthony, do you still have the 400lb springs?

[QBee]

Yes, they are on the car.

I also still have the 500 lb springs in the shed, the ones I had on the GGPs.

[Richard 858]

I can now report back from the Gurston Down experience. As previously stated I have Nitron Racing Reds, 475lb front springs, 400lb rears but also no rear anti roll bar.
Yesterday, on what started as a very wet and slippery surface I set the rears on 22 clicks and the fronts on 33, this made no difference whatsoever to handling as I spent 2/3 of the distance side ways so no information gathered other than remembering the horrified looks on the faces of the brave Marshalls as I approached them with my arms flailing at the wheel Track had part dried for the 2nd run and I left the settings alone, better result (inevitably). 3rd run and with the same settings it felt pretty good, could get the arse out nicely around the 2 tight bends and it didn't go too light over Deer Leap. 4th run better still but mucked up a gear change and hit the limiter on the home straight.

As you say Anthony it's difficult to set up on a track you don't know as alot of the differences come from improving your driving and learning the circuit rather than fine tuning suspension etc. Overall I would stick to anywhere between 18-22 clicks as a general rule of thumb for my style of driving, however I do think this is very much a subjective area and at the end of the day it will all come down to what you feel comfortable with.

As a actual response to your initial question I'd suggest starting at halfway on the rears (18 on mine), keep the fronts well up (dependent on how dry the surface is) and do as you say with a track day at a familiar circuit and experiment.

[bobfather]

I use 400's front and back, for trackday I push the front almost full hard as that appears to prevent body roll in the corners. Rears dampers I like to keep softer than the fronts but harder than I have them on the road. The issue for me with the rears is that when they are too hard the rear can hop under severe braking causing loss of road contact and subsequent brake driven stalling of rear wheel rotation. If rotation doesn't restart when the tyre contact is re-established then a spin is very possible

[QBee]

Thanks guys - really useful. It backs up what I felt. I will have to book a dry Snetterton evening very soon, and concentrate on set up rather than having fun.

[NTEL]

Try lifting the rear spring platforms 5mm and back the rear springs off a couple of clicks. 1/2 a degree more neg camber on the front will do no harm too. What tyre pressures are you using? Aim to reach a max of 28 psi. hot.

[QBee]

NTEL said:

Try lifting the rear spring platforms 5mm and back the rear springs off a couple of clicks. 1/2 a degree more neg camber on the front will do no harm too. What tyre pressures are you using? Aim to reach a max of 28 psi. hot.

Thanks for the thoughts - all good.
I do have mine on a higher ride height than most people.
I am running a degree of negative camber.
Pressures are 22/24 cold, but on a track day, when they go up to 30 psi hot, I let some air out.
When I checked the pressures the next day after my last TD, the cold pressures were 17 front and 18 rear.

[Richard 858]

Anthony, this is a great pic taken at Gurston Down yesterday at a tight, 90 degree, uphill 2nd gear left hander. 33 clicks front, 22 clicks rear on an almost dry, but not warm track. R888, GG compound.

Edited by Richard 858 on Sunday 17th April 18:50