Lower rear wishbone removal
Discussion
Can't seem to find a decent thread relating to this so I was just wondering,,
If I remove lower rear wishbones for some repairs to the bracing bars for the drop links,
Can I remove said wishbones leaving hub in place still connected to top wishbones so not disturbing drive shafts.
Just looking at chassis pics it seems possible to undo and remove bolt at hub and the same at the chassis pick up points,,,
I'm thinking I don't need to touch my toe adjuster to do this,, is this correct?
Wishbone should then fall away from the car so I can work with them on the bench
Am I missing something?
Thanks Alun
If I remove lower rear wishbones for some repairs to the bracing bars for the drop links,
Can I remove said wishbones leaving hub in place still connected to top wishbones so not disturbing drive shafts.
Just looking at chassis pics it seems possible to undo and remove bolt at hub and the same at the chassis pick up points,,,
I'm thinking I don't need to touch my toe adjuster to do this,, is this correct?
Wishbone should then fall away from the car so I can work with them on the bench
Am I missing something?
Thanks Alun
Tie up the top of the hub so that it takes all the weight. It is quite heavy as a complete unit.
Undo the bottom end of the shocker - 19mm socket/spanner.
Undo the anti roll bar from the arm - 17mm socket/spanner and you can hold the inner side using a 13mm open ended spanner. Do not remove it yet.
Undo both outer bolts from the bottom of the hub - 16mm socket/spanner.
Undo both inner bolts that hold the arm to the chassis - 16mm.
Now you can remove the link rod from the arm more easily.
Its easier to fit/remove the anti roll link rod with the shocker disconnected as you get more movement.
I used a jack under the hub to make refitting easier. No need to disturb the toe adjuster.
Undo the bottom end of the shocker - 19mm socket/spanner.
Undo the anti roll bar from the arm - 17mm socket/spanner and you can hold the inner side using a 13mm open ended spanner. Do not remove it yet.
Undo both outer bolts from the bottom of the hub - 16mm socket/spanner.
Undo both inner bolts that hold the arm to the chassis - 16mm.
Now you can remove the link rod from the arm more easily.
Its easier to fit/remove the anti roll link rod with the shocker disconnected as you get more movement.
I used a jack under the hub to make refitting easier. No need to disturb the toe adjuster.
Edited by N7GTX on Wednesday 8th June 18:10
Thanks Iain, sounds like a plan, cheers, I'm awaiting my new stronger sections to arrive then I'll pull wishbones off car,,
Yes fox, that's correct as the camber adjustment is made by moving the upper ball joint in and out relevant to its position on the upper wishbone, the bottom position is effectively fixed and can't be altered.
Cheers chaps.
Yes fox, that's correct as the camber adjustment is made by moving the upper ball joint in and out relevant to its position on the upper wishbone, the bottom position is effectively fixed and can't be altered.
Cheers chaps.
It's evident now all the noises or so it seems from my shock absorber area is related to useless O/E drop links.
You often think sounds come from the frontal area of the car,, removing rear ARB as silenced my car other than speed humps of which the fronts still grind and knock, but normal driving around built up areas nd it's very quiet, I can feel the shocks work more independently of eachother without the ARB fitted, at slow speeds I quite like it, not sure if I'd be too happy at speed into corners but for cruising style driving it's ok.
If I didn't have such a powerful engine I'd probably leave it off but with my Taraka equivalent 4.6 engine from Powers I need all the torsion I can get.
You often think sounds come from the frontal area of the car,, removing rear ARB as silenced my car other than speed humps of which the fronts still grind and knock, but normal driving around built up areas nd it's very quiet, I can feel the shocks work more independently of eachother without the ARB fitted, at slow speeds I quite like it, not sure if I'd be too happy at speed into corners but for cruising style driving it's ok.
If I didn't have such a powerful engine I'd probably leave it off but with my Taraka equivalent 4.6 engine from Powers I need all the torsion I can get.
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