Fuel Filter Location ????
Discussion
Sort-of-around the left hand rear wheel area above drive shaft - next to the pump !! Easier to see when you raise the left-hand-side, remove the wheel and - bob's-you-father's-brother.
Just remember to trip the inertia switch (up above the document holder above the passenger's knee area). Switch on and try and start the car - this will remove the fuel pressure so that removing the filter will not involve 45 psi of fuel trying to evacuate the fuel connection as you disconnect.
Perhaps MR Steve H and his 2nd edition will confirm - Just checked, page 101 !! - well, sort-of !!
Don't smoke or have a naked flame (or other incandassent device) near by. Don't forget the reset the interia switch after changing the filter.
E & OE, mostly covered all the aspects, I think !!
Take care.
Trev McM
Just remember to trip the inertia switch (up above the document holder above the passenger's knee area). Switch on and try and start the car - this will remove the fuel pressure so that removing the filter will not involve 45 psi of fuel trying to evacuate the fuel connection as you disconnect.
Perhaps MR Steve H and his 2nd edition will confirm - Just checked, page 101 !! - well, sort-of !!
Don't smoke or have a naked flame (or other incandassent device) near by. Don't forget the reset the interia switch after changing the filter.
E & OE, mostly covered all the aspects, I think !!
Take care.
Trev McM
Pete,Trev,Rich
I've had the car for a month from PSSC's chopped in the Elise and sold my old Triumph TR6.
I've previously been around Rover V8's in Rangey's and TR8's etc.
No mechanic, but I know my shit so to speak.
Curborough I've been to since I was a pup and am currently a Shenstone & District Car Club Member (Pete?)
Chim was running fine when I picked it up, is now doing the thing that my old Stromby carbed Rangey did when the points where shot or the ignition timing was out. i.e. hunting, air leak (stoms) etc .
So, have fitted new Magenecor leads and heat shields from Tim (ACT) as the fitted items were shagged.
Pulled out, checked and regapped the plugs to 33thou.
Am using the car every day at the mo, mostly fuelled on Optimax so RON OK (although 97RON BP Ultimate when pushed)
New Bosch coil on the way (Also from ACT)
Car is very volatile, I'll try to explain ....
I THINK (from old school days) the dizzy advance is suspect. I get quickish performance (no pinking) all of the time.
Then, having kept the revs up around 2+k in all gears to clear any crap, I can floor it and take the air out of my lungs, phenominal power ... to the extent that the car lurches towards towards oncoming traffic.
Is something stuck in the fuel filter or common rail causing this surge?
Is there a duff injector ?
Is the dizzy advance stuck.
And so forth.
Hence I'm trying to go through as many options as poss in a logical manner.
So Pete, yes I am looking at service items, but admit open hand, I dont know this cars makeup yet.
Tried to buy Stevey H book on TVR CC website and got a "Computer says no" as I do not have Java enabled.
Best I stop war and peace thread for now, but you guys have come up with some good stuff that I've not been through yet.
I've had the car for a month from PSSC's chopped in the Elise and sold my old Triumph TR6.
I've previously been around Rover V8's in Rangey's and TR8's etc.
No mechanic, but I know my shit so to speak.
Curborough I've been to since I was a pup and am currently a Shenstone & District Car Club Member (Pete?)
Chim was running fine when I picked it up, is now doing the thing that my old Stromby carbed Rangey did when the points where shot or the ignition timing was out. i.e. hunting, air leak (stoms) etc .
So, have fitted new Magenecor leads and heat shields from Tim (ACT) as the fitted items were shagged.
Pulled out, checked and regapped the plugs to 33thou.
Am using the car every day at the mo, mostly fuelled on Optimax so RON OK (although 97RON BP Ultimate when pushed)
New Bosch coil on the way (Also from ACT)
Car is very volatile, I'll try to explain ....
I THINK (from old school days) the dizzy advance is suspect. I get quickish performance (no pinking) all of the time.
Then, having kept the revs up around 2+k in all gears to clear any crap, I can floor it and take the air out of my lungs, phenominal power ... to the extent that the car lurches towards towards oncoming traffic.
Is something stuck in the fuel filter or common rail causing this surge?
Is there a duff injector ?
Is the dizzy advance stuck.
And so forth.
Hence I'm trying to go through as many options as poss in a logical manner.
So Pete, yes I am looking at service items, but admit open hand, I dont know this cars makeup yet.
Tried to buy Stevey H book on TVR CC website and got a "Computer says no" as I do not have Java enabled.
Best I stop war and peace thread for now, but you guys have come up with some good stuff that I've not been through yet.
Hi, I'm not a Shenstone member although I do sprint there from time to time.
From your description, it pulls well at full throttle above 2000 rpm but not at part throttle? Does it idle steadily?
Ideally, the first step would be to plug in your ECU diagnostic computer and check for fault codes, and confirm that all sensor readings are sensible. But very few DIYers have access to one, so you have to rely on good old fashioned guesswork.
One thing that would cause poor running at part throttle is an air leak in the inlet manifold. It would be worth checking for any leaks that would allow unmetered air into the plenum - engine breathers, vac lines to the brake servo, dizzy and fuel pressure regulator, airway to the idle control stepper motor, and the stepper motor itself. Basically go all the way round the plenum identifying every opening and confirm there is no way for air to get in through there.
Ignition timing is possible, would be worth checking the vac capsule is securely attached to the dizzy, and disconnect the vac line (blocking the opening at the throttle body) to rule that side out. If the vac capsule looks new, it would be worth pulling it off just to check that it has been hooked onto the adjustment mechanism properly. I've never heared of mechanical failure of the centrefugal mechanism so if the vac side looks OK I would be inclined to rule out the dizzy.
I would expect a weak spark to show up more when it is cold, and also at higher power. A passive strobe in the HT lead is a useful way to check for a healthy and consistent spark at tickover, unfortunately it's not very convenient to see when you driving!
Overfuelling doesn't seem likely but would fit the symptoms. If the vac line to the pressure regulator has fallen off you will get an air leak plus excessive fuel pressure which can cause some very strange symptoms. On mine it fouled the plugs pretty quickly when this happened so it probably isn't the problem. It's possible the regulator is connected up properly but failing, especially if you have an aftermarket adjustable or rising rate unit fitted. If you have the equipment, it would be worth checking the fuel pressure to rule this out.
If the coolant temp sender is giving a duff reading the ECU may end up overfuelling. You can check the sender resistance, it should be roughly 5k Ohms at 0c, halving for every 20c rise. Ideally you would measure this at the ECU end to pick up wiring faults too, but if you're put off by the complexity of the wiring there you can just measure at the sender on the front of the inlet manifold, it's more likely to be the sender than the wiring.
It is possible that you have a dirty or sticking injector. I don't know of any positive way to test for this other than remove them and have them serviced, but I've had suspected injector problems that were cleared by half a dozen doses of STP injector cleaner.
If any of the cylinders are down on compression this would show up more at low rpm. A compression test is quick and easy to do.
Blocked fuel filter or knackered pump I would have thought would show up more under power.
Hope this helps, let me know how you get on?
From your description, it pulls well at full throttle above 2000 rpm but not at part throttle? Does it idle steadily?
Ideally, the first step would be to plug in your ECU diagnostic computer and check for fault codes, and confirm that all sensor readings are sensible. But very few DIYers have access to one, so you have to rely on good old fashioned guesswork.
One thing that would cause poor running at part throttle is an air leak in the inlet manifold. It would be worth checking for any leaks that would allow unmetered air into the plenum - engine breathers, vac lines to the brake servo, dizzy and fuel pressure regulator, airway to the idle control stepper motor, and the stepper motor itself. Basically go all the way round the plenum identifying every opening and confirm there is no way for air to get in through there.
Ignition timing is possible, would be worth checking the vac capsule is securely attached to the dizzy, and disconnect the vac line (blocking the opening at the throttle body) to rule that side out. If the vac capsule looks new, it would be worth pulling it off just to check that it has been hooked onto the adjustment mechanism properly. I've never heared of mechanical failure of the centrefugal mechanism so if the vac side looks OK I would be inclined to rule out the dizzy.
I would expect a weak spark to show up more when it is cold, and also at higher power. A passive strobe in the HT lead is a useful way to check for a healthy and consistent spark at tickover, unfortunately it's not very convenient to see when you driving!
Overfuelling doesn't seem likely but would fit the symptoms. If the vac line to the pressure regulator has fallen off you will get an air leak plus excessive fuel pressure which can cause some very strange symptoms. On mine it fouled the plugs pretty quickly when this happened so it probably isn't the problem. It's possible the regulator is connected up properly but failing, especially if you have an aftermarket adjustable or rising rate unit fitted. If you have the equipment, it would be worth checking the fuel pressure to rule this out.
If the coolant temp sender is giving a duff reading the ECU may end up overfuelling. You can check the sender resistance, it should be roughly 5k Ohms at 0c, halving for every 20c rise. Ideally you would measure this at the ECU end to pick up wiring faults too, but if you're put off by the complexity of the wiring there you can just measure at the sender on the front of the inlet manifold, it's more likely to be the sender than the wiring.
It is possible that you have a dirty or sticking injector. I don't know of any positive way to test for this other than remove them and have them serviced, but I've had suspected injector problems that were cleared by half a dozen doses of STP injector cleaner.
If any of the cylinders are down on compression this would show up more at low rpm. A compression test is quick and easy to do.
Blocked fuel filter or knackered pump I would have thought would show up more under power.
Hope this helps, let me know how you get on?
Pete thanks for the multiple answers :-)
I've just revived my original post and I think it's dizzy vac or ign amp related - still guessing without the test equipment.
I'll not repost on this thread to keep any posts and info in one place.
PM me when your next at Curborough, we just watched your "rag it round" PH video at CSC - respect my friend, nice hand work on the steering wheel.
Bob
I've just revived my original post and I think it's dizzy vac or ign amp related - still guessing without the test equipment.
I'll not repost on this thread to keep any posts and info in one place.
PM me when your next at Curborough, we just watched your "rag it round" PH video at CSC - respect my friend, nice hand work on the steering wheel.
Bob
Dear God Peter, I just went to your website.
I had no idea your S was blown.
Certainly explains the speed of the car at Curborough, and the very quick hand work on the steering wheel !
Will deffo be joining up with you sprint guys for next year for a couple of events.
And participating even if very slowly.
Lovely car, love the engine bay piccies
I had no idea your S was blown.
Certainly explains the speed of the car at Curborough, and the very quick hand work on the steering wheel !
Will deffo be joining up with you sprint guys for next year for a couple of events.
And participating even if very slowly.
Lovely car, love the engine bay piccies
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