Couple of Chimaera questions / opinions
Discussion
So I'll have had my Chim for an entire week by tomorrow lunchtime, and I've somehow racked up just over 300 miles- very fun miles it must be said!
I've got a couple of things I intend to look at this weekend:-
-Electric mirrors (in my other thread Anthony has already helpfully pointed me in the direction of fuse-16, so will check this out).
-Driver's side window seal - I'm aware some Chimaeras have an adjustment screw to alter the height of the window by a few mm, so I'll look at this first. If not, I'll go down the route of replacing the seals on the targa panel itself. The ones on there are coming away at both ends anyway (I suspect where they have been caught removing the panel from the boot) so whilst I could just stick these back down this could be a good excuse to do a proper job of this anyway. I read a couple of threads on this and it seems straightforward enough.
-Oil. Does anyone have any recommendation on the most suitable oil for a 74,000 mile, 1995 car? From reading past threads on here, this seems to be a pretty varied topic. It was serviced prior to my collection and the oil in there is clearly new, but wanted to pick some up to keep in the car. I should have asked what they used at the time of collection, unfortunately that's another one on the long list of 'questions I should have asked when buying the car, that I completely forgot'...
Lastly, my original intention was to get the pre-cats removed, most likely over the winter. But I've since been toying with the idea of going down the sleeved exhaust route first, and then deciding whether to go for the pre-cats as well at a later date. I'm happy with the volume of the standard system (although certainly wouldn't be against a little bit more), but I'd love to liberate a few more pops/bangs...
Does anyone vaguely local to the Oxfordshire area have a Chim with either a sleeved or a pre-cat removed (or both) exhaust system that would be kind enough to let me have a listen at some point?
I've got a couple of things I intend to look at this weekend:-
-Electric mirrors (in my other thread Anthony has already helpfully pointed me in the direction of fuse-16, so will check this out).
-Driver's side window seal - I'm aware some Chimaeras have an adjustment screw to alter the height of the window by a few mm, so I'll look at this first. If not, I'll go down the route of replacing the seals on the targa panel itself. The ones on there are coming away at both ends anyway (I suspect where they have been caught removing the panel from the boot) so whilst I could just stick these back down this could be a good excuse to do a proper job of this anyway. I read a couple of threads on this and it seems straightforward enough.
-Oil. Does anyone have any recommendation on the most suitable oil for a 74,000 mile, 1995 car? From reading past threads on here, this seems to be a pretty varied topic. It was serviced prior to my collection and the oil in there is clearly new, but wanted to pick some up to keep in the car. I should have asked what they used at the time of collection, unfortunately that's another one on the long list of 'questions I should have asked when buying the car, that I completely forgot'...
Lastly, my original intention was to get the pre-cats removed, most likely over the winter. But I've since been toying with the idea of going down the sleeved exhaust route first, and then deciding whether to go for the pre-cats as well at a later date. I'm happy with the volume of the standard system (although certainly wouldn't be against a little bit more), but I'd love to liberate a few more pops/bangs...
Does anyone vaguely local to the Oxfordshire area have a Chim with either a sleeved or a pre-cat removed (or both) exhaust system that would be kind enough to let me have a listen at some point?
The other thing the mirrors not working can be is bad connections in the connector blocks. These are behind the door speakers, and have five wires in/out.
Pre-cats - before removing them the hard way, make sure your manifolds aren't already leaking from where the 4 pipes go into one. If they are, the manifolds will have to come off and be cut open around the wide bit between the 4>1 and the precat. When the welder has them cut open, it's an easy job to remove the precats.
If you fancy a track day......don't sleeve the exhaust. You will exceed the noise limits. If you don't, the limit is your eardrums!
Pre-cats - before removing them the hard way, make sure your manifolds aren't already leaking from where the 4 pipes go into one. If they are, the manifolds will have to come off and be cut open around the wide bit between the 4>1 and the precat. When the welder has them cut open, it's an easy job to remove the precats.
If you fancy a track day......don't sleeve the exhaust. You will exceed the noise limits. If you don't, the limit is your eardrums!
The targa top seals are 'slotted' into a groove in a steel section attached to the roof pannel. If they're flapping at the ends, they can be pushed back in to the channel section with a small srewdriver. Mine are forever popping out at the ends on roof removal, if you catch them. No adhesive required.
I have a sleeved exhaust but the cats are still in. It makes a lovely sound (louder than standard by some way) but it isn't harsh. I'm in Kent, which isn't Oxford-ish at all, unfortunately. But you're welcome to listen, in the unlikely event that you find the M40 and the M25 lead you this way. 
I have a sleeved exhaust but the cats are still in. It makes a lovely sound (louder than standard by some way) but it isn't harsh. I'm in Kent, which isn't Oxford-ish at all, unfortunately.
But you're welcome to listen, in the unlikely event that you find the M40 and the M25 lead you this way. QBee said:
The other thing the mirrors not working can be is bad connections in the connector blocks. These are behind the door speakers, and have five wires in/out.
Great thanks, the cigarette lighter also isn't working which makes me wonder if these weren't connected back up when the door was re-trimmed. I'll try the fuse first but it seems more likely to be bad/missing connections.QBee said:
Pre-cats - before removing them the hard way, make sure your manifolds aren't already leaking from where the 4 pipes go into one. If they are, the manifolds will have to come off and be cut open around the wide bit between the 4>1 and the precat. When the welder has them cut open, it's an easy job to remove the precats.
If you fancy a track day......don't sleeve the exhaust. You will exceed the noise limits. If you don't, the limit is your eardrums!
I'll keep that in mind regarding the manifolds- if I go for the pre-cat removal I'd like to get anything else done that makes sense to be done at the same time, er, done.If you fancy a track day......don't sleeve the exhaust. You will exceed the noise limits. If you don't, the limit is your eardrums!
I've no plans to track it to be honest, it's never figured in my desire for a Chim whatsoever, so that wouldn't bother me. Sunday morning drives scaring the wildlife and the odd work commute annoying the Summertown toffs is where it's at for me
As I say, I'm no stranger to exhaust loudness, and given that my cousin (and main fellow car enthusiast) is taking delivery of a Mustang GT next month complete with a Corsa Extreme exhaust system, I'd rather not be out-done vocally!...
I definitely need to try and hear 400s in the various states of exhaust 'loudness' before I make a decision though.
pb450 said:
The targa top seals are 'slotted' into a groove in a steel section attached to the roof pannel. If they're flapping at the ends, they can be pushed back in to the channel section with a small srewdriver. Mine are forever popping out at the ends on roof removal, if you catch them. No adhesive required.
That was my plan to try first- I can see where they are popping out from. Good to know they should pop back in without adhesive.pb450 said:
I have a sleeved exhaust but the cats are still in. It makes a lovely sound (louder than standard by some way) but it isn't harsh. I'm in Kent, which isn't Oxford-ish at all, unfortunately. But you're welcome to listen, in the unlikely event that you find the M40 and the M25 lead you this way.
That's exactly the setup I want to hear, but yeah probably a bit far to travel just to listen to an exhaust! But you're welcome to listen, in the unlikely event that you find the M40 and the M25 lead you this way. Think you're more likely to get pops and bangs removing cats than silencers although removing the silencers will obviously make it louder overall.
Have you tried feathering the throttle on over run to get pops and bangs? Just rest your foot on the accelerator whilst using the engine for braking, got to be throwing a little bit of fuel in there for the bangs, normally around 3k rpm I get the best crackles
Have you tried feathering the throttle on over run to get pops and bangs? Just rest your foot on the accelerator whilst using the engine for braking, got to be throwing a little bit of fuel in there for the bangs, normally around 3k rpm I get the best crackles
s p a c e m a n said:
Think you're more likely to get pops and bangs removing cats than silencers although removing the silencers will obviously make it louder overall.
Have you tried feathering the throttle on over run to get pops and bangs? Just rest your foot on the accelerator whilst using the engine for braking, got to be throwing a little bit of fuel in there for the bangs, normally around 3k rpm I get the best crackles
Yeah it does crackle a bit on over run, I'm just greedy and would like to liberate a bit more! Have you tried feathering the throttle on over run to get pops and bangs? Just rest your foot on the accelerator whilst using the engine for braking, got to be throwing a little bit of fuel in there for the bangs, normally around 3k rpm I get the best crackles
s p a c e m a n said:
They would love me turning up to work like that!
Does anyone have any thoughts on suitable oil type?
Edited by Squirrelofwoe on Thursday 4th August 15:39
Oil type? Now you've done it. Sit back and wait for all 3,500 Chimaera owners to tell you a different one to the handbook.
My view, for what its worth is that the engine was designed in the 1950s when oils such as 5/40 and 10/60 did not exist. And there was definitely no 'fully synthetic' oil then either. My engine was rebuilt and turbo conversion by Powers Performance and they use 10/40 semi synthetic of a good brand name. So I have Shell Helix 10/40 and the oil pressure is excellent hot or cold and my warranty will remain valid.
Now, be prepared for zillions of differing recommendations.....
My view, for what its worth is that the engine was designed in the 1950s when oils such as 5/40 and 10/60 did not exist. And there was definitely no 'fully synthetic' oil then either. My engine was rebuilt and turbo conversion by Powers Performance and they use 10/40 semi synthetic of a good brand name. So I have Shell Helix 10/40 and the oil pressure is excellent hot or cold and my warranty will remain valid.
Now, be prepared for zillions of differing recommendations.....
You'll get every answer under the sun on here.
As you have no interest in track activities, you have no need for 10w60 fully syncopated.
Many would advocate a good 20w50 mineral oil with high zinc levels. Read a few Chimpongas essays if you want to know more. Quite a number recommend Millers, quite a number Valvoline.
TVR Power I believe recommend 10w40 semi syncopated.
The engines are of 1950s American design, and oil technology has moved on massively since those days.
If you ask the technologycrats at Castrol or Shell they will recommend 10w60 fully synth as it covers all the angles, and our engines can get pretty hot.
The car will run fine on almost anything, though personally I would avoid anything as thin as 0w30.
As you have no interest in track activities, you have no need for 10w60 fully syncopated.
Many would advocate a good 20w50 mineral oil with high zinc levels. Read a few Chimpongas essays if you want to know more. Quite a number recommend Millers, quite a number Valvoline.
TVR Power I believe recommend 10w40 semi syncopated.
The engines are of 1950s American design, and oil technology has moved on massively since those days.
If you ask the technologycrats at Castrol or Shell they will recommend 10w60 fully synth as it covers all the angles, and our engines can get pretty hot.
The car will run fine on almost anything, though personally I would avoid anything as thin as 0w30.
I'm south Birmingham so about 1hr away and have a sleeved exhaust with all cats still in place. Here it is to give you an idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHnSX2Az5gE
If 1hr isn't to far then you're more than welcome to visit,or if we get a non rainy day happy to meet half way somewhere.
If 1hr isn't to far then you're more than welcome to visit,or if we get a non rainy day happy to meet half way somewhere.
Re: oil:- So if I went with decent brand 10w 40 I should be fine then? I feel like I've opened a can of worms there!
TVRJAS said:
I'm south Birmingham so about 1hr away and have a sleeved exhaust with all cats still in place. Here it is to give you an idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHnSX2Az5gE
If 1hr isn't to far then you're more than welcome to visit,or if we get a non rainy day happy to meet half way somewhere.
Funnily enough your car was one of the ones I'd listened too on Youtube already. Cheers for the offer, I spend quite a bit of time up in Banbury, so if we got some decent weather at some point I'd certainly be up for meeting somewhere in the middle if it worked for you- would love to hear your car in person. If 1hr isn't to far then you're more than welcome to visit,or if we get a non rainy day happy to meet half way somewhere.
On oil, if you aren't driving in extremes hot or cold, then I would go for something Like Valvoline VR1 20 w 50
Good quality mineral oil with high zinc content.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Valvoline-VR1-20w-Racing-... , but you can get it cheaper.
Good quality mineral oil with high zinc content.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Valvoline-VR1-20w-Racing-... , but you can get it cheaper.
Squirrelofwoe said:
So I'll have had my Chim for an entire week by tomorrow lunchtime, and I've somehow racked up just over 300 miles- very fun miles it must be said!
I've got a couple of things I intend to look at this weekend:-
-Electric mirrors (in my other thread Anthony has already helpfully pointed me in the direction of fuse-16, so will check this out).
-Driver's side window seal - I'm aware some Chimaeras have an adjustment screw to alter the height of the window by a few mm, so I'll look at this first. If not, I'll go down the route of replacing the seals on the targa panel itself. The ones on there are coming away at both ends anyway (I suspect where they have been caught removing the panel from the boot) so whilst I could just stick these back down this could be a good excuse to do a proper job of this anyway. I read a couple of threads on this and it seems straightforward enough.
-Oil. Does anyone have any recommendation on the most suitable oil for a 74,000 mile, 1995 car? From reading past threads on here, this seems to be a pretty varied topic. It was serviced prior to my collection and the oil in there is clearly new, but wanted to pick some up to keep in the car. I should have asked what they used at the time of collection, unfortunately that's another one on the long list of 'questions I should have asked when buying the car, that I completely forgot'...
Lastly, my original intention was to get the pre-cats removed, most likely over the winter. But I've since been toying with the idea of going down the sleeved exhaust route first, and then deciding whether to go for the pre-cats as well at a later date. I'm happy with the volume of the standard system (although certainly wouldn't be against a little bit more), but I'd love to liberate a few more pops/bangs...
Does anyone vaguely local to the Oxfordshire area have a Chim with either a sleeved or a pre-cat removed (or both) exhaust system that would be kind enough to let me have a listen at some point?
OP I'm in Bucks, had a Clive F Y piece and baffles removed on my 5.0. If you would like a video then Pm me otherwise happy to take you out for a blast to see what you think.I've got a couple of things I intend to look at this weekend:-
-Electric mirrors (in my other thread Anthony has already helpfully pointed me in the direction of fuse-16, so will check this out).
-Driver's side window seal - I'm aware some Chimaeras have an adjustment screw to alter the height of the window by a few mm, so I'll look at this first. If not, I'll go down the route of replacing the seals on the targa panel itself. The ones on there are coming away at both ends anyway (I suspect where they have been caught removing the panel from the boot) so whilst I could just stick these back down this could be a good excuse to do a proper job of this anyway. I read a couple of threads on this and it seems straightforward enough.
-Oil. Does anyone have any recommendation on the most suitable oil for a 74,000 mile, 1995 car? From reading past threads on here, this seems to be a pretty varied topic. It was serviced prior to my collection and the oil in there is clearly new, but wanted to pick some up to keep in the car. I should have asked what they used at the time of collection, unfortunately that's another one on the long list of 'questions I should have asked when buying the car, that I completely forgot'...
Lastly, my original intention was to get the pre-cats removed, most likely over the winter. But I've since been toying with the idea of going down the sleeved exhaust route first, and then deciding whether to go for the pre-cats as well at a later date. I'm happy with the volume of the standard system (although certainly wouldn't be against a little bit more), but I'd love to liberate a few more pops/bangs...
Does anyone vaguely local to the Oxfordshire area have a Chim with either a sleeved or a pre-cat removed (or both) exhaust system that would be kind enough to let me have a listen at some point?
I've got a theory,,, bare with me
Inevitably as fuel is always slowly entering the oil it gets dirty quickly, I don't know if this actually effects the ability of the oil to lubricate but it's something I don't really like, so and here's the money maker
Unless your using the car for tracks or live in a city I'm thinking of using a slightly lessor oil but replace it at say 3000 mile intervals so ensuring my engine internals stay nice and shiny oh I do enjoy this you know,,,
I've been watching my oil colour recently and it's good for about 2000 miles then starts to go from golden brown to black by around 3000 miles so hence the idea.
Is this a load of old tosh and has that blackening of the oil got any relation to its ability to lubricate?
If it has then I'd rather just replace it sooner so keeping the engine internals cleaner.
Maybe I should do what Qbee does and order it by the barrel as our change intervals are so regular, I settled on 5000 mile intervals but even that seems high when the oils so black by then.
I've got a lovely engine and I'd like to do all I can to keep it like new inside. My breathers are generally clean and my plenum inside is also very clean.
Feel free to correct any of my ramblings
Inevitably as fuel is always slowly entering the oil it gets dirty quickly, I don't know if this actually effects the ability of the oil to lubricate but it's something I don't really like, so and here's the money maker
Unless your using the car for tracks or live in a city I'm thinking of using a slightly lessor oil but replace it at say 3000 mile intervals so ensuring my engine internals stay nice and shiny
oh I do enjoy this you know,,,I've been watching my oil colour recently and it's good for about 2000 miles then starts to go from golden brown to black by around 3000 miles so hence the idea.
Is this a load of old tosh and has that blackening of the oil got any relation to its ability to lubricate?
If it has then I'd rather just replace it sooner so keeping the engine internals cleaner.
Maybe I should do what Qbee does and order it by the barrel as our change intervals are so regular, I settled on 5000 mile intervals but even that seems high when the oils so black by then.
I've got a lovely engine and I'd like to do all I can to keep it like new inside. My breathers are generally clean and my plenum inside is also very clean.
Feel free to correct any of my ramblings
TVRJAS said:
Banbury is fine with me, give me a few days notice when you know you'll be there and we can pick a place.
Regards Jas
That would be fantastic thankyou. I am actually up there tomorrow night and staying over until Saturday afternoon- but if that is too short notice I am up there most Friday evenings so most Saturday mornings would work for me Regards Jas
QBee said:
On oil, if you aren't driving in extremes hot or cold, then I would go for something Like Valvoline VR1 20 w 50
Good quality mineral oil with high zinc content.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Valvoline-VR1-20w-Racing-... , but you can get it cheaper.
Thanks for that, yeah it seems to be available for £29.95 for 5 litres which isn't too bad, will give that a go in that case. I can certainly see the logic of what Alun is saying, and I'd be inclined to agree that 5k+ oil changes seem a long time if only doing 5k miles tops in a year. Good quality mineral oil with high zinc content.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Valvoline-VR1-20w-Racing-... , but you can get it cheaper.
Both my Type R's and my Starion used to get oil changed every 3k miles or 6 months- whichever came first. Granted they were much higher revving engines, but I've always been of the opinion that as cars get older they deserve a decent amount of mechanical sympathy- and having successfully taken both the Starion and the Accord Type R North of 140,000 miles without so much as a sniff of a problem it seemed to pay off.
In window related news, I had a look for the adjuster screw this evening and mine doesn't appear to have one sadly
I take it there must be a (more involved) 'manual' method to raise the window up by around 5mm?Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff