Replacing Dash Veneer
Discussion
I know this topic has been covered in different guises before, but I'm thinking of replacing the veneer (walnut) on my dash since it's starting to crack.
Couple of questions (since I've not taken the dash apart yet).
1. How thick is the original veneer. The stuff I've found / planning to buy is mounted on 9mm MDF. Obviously this will have a huge impact on getting the dials to fit back ok.
2. I assume other people (I know Balistic Bannana did his - but used carbon fibre) have changed their's by themselves. Is it quite straight forward. Ie any specialist tools other than a jigsaw / knife or hole saw / forsner bit etc for cutting the holes.
Sorry, bit of a lose set of questions but I'm buggered if I'm going to fork out £250+ for TVR's replacement.
All thoughts, comments and suggestions welcome!!.
Oh, looking at Europa Specialist Spares for the Veneer ; www.europaspares.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Dashboards_and_Panels_34.html
Cheers
Steve
Couple of questions (since I've not taken the dash apart yet).
1. How thick is the original veneer. The stuff I've found / planning to buy is mounted on 9mm MDF. Obviously this will have a huge impact on getting the dials to fit back ok.
2. I assume other people (I know Balistic Bannana did his - but used carbon fibre) have changed their's by themselves. Is it quite straight forward. Ie any specialist tools other than a jigsaw / knife or hole saw / forsner bit etc for cutting the holes.
Sorry, bit of a lose set of questions but I'm buggered if I'm going to fork out £250+ for TVR's replacement.
All thoughts, comments and suggestions welcome!!.
Oh, looking at Europa Specialist Spares for the Veneer ; www.europaspares.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Dashboards_and_Panels_34.html
Cheers
Steve
Have just done mine, the veneer is about 1mm thick and comes away from the dash, once you have taken it out, fairly easily with a scraper, although some bits are difficult!!, Once all the veneer is off or at least most of it then you can sand it with emery paper using different grades to get the required finish, it comes up really well like an alli dash!!!!!!
If you go to trefor's site which is www.motion-lotion.co.uk if my memory serves me, he has a page all about taking the dash out on a Chim ...
If the Chimps dash is slightly curved like the Griffs, you won't find those Europa panels much use as they're 9mm MDF!
If you're good at woodwork try Art Veneers in Mildenhall - buy a bit you like, stick it to an ally backing and make it nice and shiny (that's the hard bit!). I was doing that with a nice bit of figured ash - until everyone said how much they liked the existing ally dash - doh!
If you're good at woodwork try Art Veneers in Mildenhall - buy a bit you like, stick it to an ally backing and make it nice and shiny (that's the hard bit!). I was doing that with a nice bit of figured ash - until everyone said how much they liked the existing ally dash - doh!
Not too difficult, what I did was do each instrument at a time, i.e. take one out then plug all the wires back in and go on to the next, that way I did not mix up any wires etc, once the instruments are out the only difficult bit which is more fiddly than difficult is the heater controls, the knob just pulls off with a bit of force but the dials are a bit harder, you need to undo the cables going to the back with the two screws that screw into the dials, make sure you note which holes the screws come out of as there are more than one!!!, you then need to undo the bracket that holds the cables in, make sure you note which is top and which is bottom, common sense I know but would be a right pain if you got them the wrong way round and had to take the dash off again!!!!!, it then should just lift out, once out you can take the heater dials off the back of the dash which are held on by a few tiny nuts and screws
hope this makes sense
cheers
Richard
hope this makes sense
cheers
Richard
Cheers Guys,
Yep, the MDF is out since it would be too thick.
I use the term 'Veneer' loosley as per ATG's comment. I would class it as cheap nasty plastic tat, rather than real wood veneer. But I will probably replace it with the same plastic cack (providing I can find someone local to MK that does laminates)
Steve
Yep, the MDF is out since it would be too thick.
I use the term 'Veneer' loosley as per ATG's comment. I would class it as cheap nasty plastic tat, rather than real wood veneer. But I will probably replace it with the same plastic cack (providing I can find someone local to MK that does laminates)
Steve
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