Heater valve operation upgrade?
Discussion
Dear laydees and gents,
I've never become friends with the cable operation of the heater valve in my Chim. After it became so stiff that it snapped at the dashboard end when trying to get a little heat into the cabin on an early morning start, eighteen months ago, I tried several configurations of inner and outer cable (the inner must be stiff enough to be able to push as well as pull the lever) without result.
I'm thinking the solution would be to put the servo of the Griff on the heater valve - TVR Parts also lists an electrically operated heater valve for 'export models' - anyone got any info on this, specifically the necessary dashboard components? - and put some sort of position sensor on the rotary dial, anyone done this or found another way to achieve smooth operation and the ability to use the complete range from fully open to fully closed on the heater valve?
Ta muchly in advance
I've never become friends with the cable operation of the heater valve in my Chim. After it became so stiff that it snapped at the dashboard end when trying to get a little heat into the cabin on an early morning start, eighteen months ago, I tried several configurations of inner and outer cable (the inner must be stiff enough to be able to push as well as pull the lever) without result.
I'm thinking the solution would be to put the servo of the Griff on the heater valve - TVR Parts also lists an electrically operated heater valve for 'export models' - anyone got any info on this, specifically the necessary dashboard components? - and put some sort of position sensor on the rotary dial, anyone done this or found another way to achieve smooth operation and the ability to use the complete range from fully open to fully closed on the heater valve?
Ta muchly in advance
phazed said:
Hmm, if I'm not mistaken that could even plumb in a fair bit easier than the OE (Volkswagen) heater valve... (I have an early car, which had different matrix outlets and rubber hoses running through the footwell, which I recently replaced with the stainless ACT version of the heater pipes. This necessitated the heater valve to be placed horizontally, followed by a 180 degree turn to the matrix inlet IIRC). Thanks for finding this! The thing that I'm really interested in, however, is how to drive the servo from the rotary disc heater control in a neat and robust way (I'm not much of an electrician
). That Fiesta/KA heater valve would need to be mounted in a very accessible position because you'll be changing it frequently! (ask anyone who owns one /works on them) Coolant leaks past the diaphragm seal and rusts the solenoid up, they can fail open or closed. The plastic spigots also fail as they're crafted of the finest crumbly fruit cake.
The valve is 'infinitely' adjustable so you'd need to use or replicate Ford's switchgear to drive it.
The valve is 'infinitely' adjustable so you'd need to use or replicate Ford's switchgear to drive it.
Edited by TwinKam on Tuesday 13th December 15:47
Edited by TwinKam on Tuesday 13th December 15:48
TwinKam said:
That Fiesta/KA heater valve would need to be mounted in a very accessible position because you'll be changing it frequently! (ask anyone who owns one /works on them) Coolant leaks past the diaphragm seal and rusts the solenoid up, they can fail open or closed. The plastic spigots also fail as they're crafted of the finest crumbly fruit cake.
The valve is 'infinitely' adjustable so you'd need to use or replicate Ford's switchgear to drive it.
Agree with the above KA/Fiesta heater valves are sThe valve is 'infinitely' adjustable so you'd need to use or replicate Ford's switchgear to drive it.
Edited by TwinKam on Tuesday 13th December 15:47
Edited by TwinKam on Tuesday 13th December 15:48
te even the OE Ford ones, maybe door stops other than that ......TwinKam said:
That Fiesta/KA heater valve would need to be mounted in a very accessible position because you'll be changing it frequently! (ask anyone who owns one /works on them) Coolant leaks past the diaphragm seal and rusts the solenoid up, they can fail open or closed. The plastic spigots also fail as they're crafted of the finest crumbly fruit cake.
The valve is 'infinitely' adjustable so you'd need to use or replicate Ford's switchgear to drive it.
Maybe buy a cheap one like this and butcher it. Just need the centre part The valve is 'infinitely' adjustable so you'd need to use or replicate Ford's switchgear to drive it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-KA-MK1-96-08-HEATER...
Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 13th December 21:01
phazed said:
Very sorry to be negative but sadly I believe that KA valve is only full on or full off and nothing in between. On the plus side I use an alternative full on & full off valve and is perfect for Spring, Summer & Autumn but not very good in the winter.Sorry Steve
(although I wouldn't be surprised to find the same darn part in a contemporary Jaguar, Volvo or Aston 
They are also cheap gen Ford from a dealer but trust me they are ste I have even at to back brand new ones in the past due to the piston sticking avoid these at all cost, at a guess I reckon I have replaced about 30/40 of the suckers, dont see them much nowadays as the cars are getting older still get the odd one but they was once a monthly event, they are considered bin fodder amongst techs/mechanics, they do have progression too and not just on/off like mentioned ........... 
te I have even at to back brand new ones in the past due to the piston sticking avoid these at all cost, at a guess I reckon I have replaced about 30/40 of the suckers, dont see them much nowadays as the cars are getting older still get the odd one but they was once a monthly event, they are considered bin fodder amongst techs/mechanics, they do have progression too and not just on/off like mentioned ........... 
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