Best engine 4.0, 4.3, 4.5 or 5.0
Discussion
Still trawling and browsing adverts and slowly picking upmore information aboutt eh TVR's and Chimaera especially. The budget will ultimately decide what there is to choose from but have noticed cars offered with all four engine sizes that may be within the budget. Assuming that they have been and are maintained which would be best for the nw TVR owner?
So pros and cons of each unit? :-
5.0 obviously in std trim the most powerful but does it have any drawbacks?
4.5 seems popular but again to a newbie like myself any drawbacks? What are the advantages over the 4.3 and 4.0 units?
4.3 seen it said it is a rarer unit and only offered for a short time ... why is this? Was it a problem unit? benefits?
4.0 the base unit. Seems most common so what are the drawbacks? pros?
Have read on the web that cams and cam train can wear. So is this something that I need to look out for when looking for a Chim? Same goes for the timing chain!
Until the sale completes will now know exactly how much will be available for the car purchase ............................ that complicates things a little of course but hopefully with a little haggling the right car can be found.
So pros and cons of each unit? :-
5.0 obviously in std trim the most powerful but does it have any drawbacks?
4.5 seems popular but again to a newbie like myself any drawbacks? What are the advantages over the 4.3 and 4.0 units?
4.3 seen it said it is a rarer unit and only offered for a short time ... why is this? Was it a problem unit? benefits?
4.0 the base unit. Seems most common so what are the drawbacks? pros?
Have read on the web that cams and cam train can wear. So is this something that I need to look out for when looking for a Chim? Same goes for the timing chain!
Until the sale completes will now know exactly how much will be available for the car purchase ............................ that complicates things a little of course but hopefully with a little haggling the right car can be found.
4.0 should be pretty bullet proof
4.3 nice but true ones are rare, most adapted after leaving factory
4.6 cross bolted crank and the later blocks are meant to be the best
5.0 possibly more fragile than the other versions but most are fine.
The 4.6 is considered to be the best engine to mod but you can't beat CC's and the 5.0 is generally a bit faster.
Tune a 4.6 and there's not a lot in it between the 4.6 and 5.0 engines power wise.
Others will come along with more detailed answeres but that's the basics of it.
As with any engine timing chains and gears can wear especially if abused by lots of acceleration force but most of these cars just chug along with the odd nutty moment
4.3 nice but true ones are rare, most adapted after leaving factory
4.6 cross bolted crank and the later blocks are meant to be the best
5.0 possibly more fragile than the other versions but most are fine.
The 4.6 is considered to be the best engine to mod but you can't beat CC's and the 5.0 is generally a bit faster.
Tune a 4.6 and there's not a lot in it between the 4.6 and 5.0 engines power wise.
Others will come along with more detailed answeres but that's the basics of it.
As with any engine timing chains and gears can wear especially if abused by lots of acceleration force but most of these cars just chug along with the odd nutty moment

Edited by ClassicChimaera on Thursday 29th December 12:42
Agree with Classic above pretty much.
Everyone will be along with their opinion and I'm no different. IMO the best option is the 4.5 as it's supposed to be the best compromise of power and strength. I asked this question aeons ago and the consensus was 4.5, just.
To be honest they are all good if you get a good one
And if the 4.0 is not quick enough, just do what many 4.0 owners are doing now, and turbo charge it.
Everyone will be along with their opinion and I'm no different. IMO the best option is the 4.5 as it's supposed to be the best compromise of power and strength. I asked this question aeons ago and the consensus was 4.5, just.
To be honest they are all good if you get a good one
And if the 4.0 is not quick enough, just do what many 4.0 owners are doing now, and turbo charge it.caduceus said:
Everyone will be along with their opinion and I'm no different. IMO the best option is the 4.5 as it's supposed to be the best compromise of power and strength. I asked this question aeons ago and the consensus was 4.5, just.
The only people that say that are those who've not had a 5.0 
I made the mistake of having a few 5.0, then running a 4.5. It just wasn't the same
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
caduceus said:
Everyone will be along with their opinion and I'm no different. IMO the best option is the 4.5 as it's supposed to be the best compromise of power and strength. I asked this question aeons ago and the consensus was 4.5, just.
The only people that say that are those who've not had a 5.0 

caduceus said:
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
caduceus said:
Everyone will be along with their opinion and I'm no different. IMO the best option is the 4.5 as it's supposed to be the best compromise of power and strength. I asked this question aeons ago and the consensus was 4.5, just.
The only people that say that are those who've not had a 5.0 


I read somewhere only 600 5.0L Chimaeras were made. Don't know if that's true....but if so I've owned 1% of the entire production at some time or other

Thank you for the comments. At this stage of the learning curve it is all useful. It maybe that I am over thinking this but having made a error with a car purchase a couple of years ago am trying to avoid that happening this time and that was from a dealer.
Although I have driven acouple of Rover V8's in the past and and even an MGB GT V8 when I was but a lad very briefly (down the road and back) my V8 experience is very limited. The nephew had a couple of V8's ................. SD1's then a couple of big yanks.
Did have a Jeep 4.0L Hi Output for a number of years but that is not a V8 nor a sports car.
So am trying to work out a worst case scenario and do a rough costing of what it may cost. Meanwhile in my web searches came across this 450 Chimaera and the listing includes:-
"Still under in house TVR garage warranty. Recent outriggers, dash and wheel refurb. Recipts for replacement cam and reconditioned gearbox. 18 service stamps and invoices back to 2000. Most MOTS with big folder of receipts."
Shame that it is unlikely to still be on offer when the funds become available and that it is likely just beyond the stretch of the budget. I think that i have looked at most of them on offer at the moment on the computer. That particular one has a colour scheme that I would be quite happy with too!
Although I have driven acouple of Rover V8's in the past and and even an MGB GT V8 when I was but a lad very briefly (down the road and back) my V8 experience is very limited. The nephew had a couple of V8's ................. SD1's then a couple of big yanks.
Did have a Jeep 4.0L Hi Output for a number of years but that is not a V8 nor a sports car.
So am trying to work out a worst case scenario and do a rough costing of what it may cost. Meanwhile in my web searches came across this 450 Chimaera and the listing includes:-
"Still under in house TVR garage warranty. Recent outriggers, dash and wheel refurb. Recipts for replacement cam and reconditioned gearbox. 18 service stamps and invoices back to 2000. Most MOTS with big folder of receipts."
Shame that it is unlikely to still be on offer when the funds become available and that it is likely just beyond the stretch of the budget. I think that i have looked at most of them on offer at the moment on the computer. That particular one has a colour scheme that I would be quite happy with too!
ITVRI said:
+1 buy the best condition for your budget and if you want more performance add a turbo.
Not interested in racing the Chimaera I want it for fun motoring and touring just about what it was designed and built for. Maybe a spot of camping while touring if I can manage to get one before summer then we will be taking it to France for a while.Then any of the 4 engine types will be suitable as they are all reliable and quick compared to the average shopping cart
I have owned my 4.0 Chimaera for 7 years and have been camping with it down to south France and through Germany. The turbo install running 7psi gives me the power of a 5.0 engine with the option to increase power easily if desired.
I have owned my 4.0 Chimaera for 7 years and have been camping with it down to south France and through Germany. The turbo install running 7psi gives me the power of a 5.0 engine with the option to increase power easily if desired.
As others have said condition is the most important factor to consider when purchasing don't let milage put you off.
Regarding engine size I think it depends to some extent what you want from the car. I have been lucky enough to drive all variants of the TVR RV8 and my favourite was the 4.3BV. My observations of each model are as follows:
4.0 - This is slow compared to the 5.0, it does not give you much of a kick in the back however it is a fantastic B road blaster and in many ways the most fun. With the 4.0 you can be on full throttle enjoying the v8 noise for far longer than the 4.6 and 5.0. You can actually ring the neck of a 4.0 and drive it flat out without too much fear which is great fun. Great high revving fun
4.6 - Technically the best engine with latest cross bolted Rover block. A sorted 4.6 will be faster than a lot of the 5.0s out there. Great tuning potential with the latest block. More power than the 4.0 but still has the high revving nature
5.0 - This gives you a huge shove in the back whenever you go near the loud pedal, feels much faster than it actually is. The amount of torque can catch you out on roundabouts and can be quite intimidating when you first drive it until you get used to it. Does not rev out very well which means you end up riding the torque band lower down in the rev range. 5.0 does have a weak crank and they have been known to snap (quite rare though). Most 5.0s have a chocolate cam needs replacing around 50k, having said that there are some still going over 100k
4.3BV - This is my favourite, highly tuned, almost as much power as the 5.0 but not as much torque. All the high rev fun from the 4.0 and 4.6. Sounds epic and an absolute hoot to drive. 4.3BV is very rare.
I went for the 5.0 in the end as I had to have the 'top' one. For me a TVR is about being pinned back in your seat and being scared every now and then.
Regarding engine size I think it depends to some extent what you want from the car. I have been lucky enough to drive all variants of the TVR RV8 and my favourite was the 4.3BV. My observations of each model are as follows:
4.0 - This is slow compared to the 5.0, it does not give you much of a kick in the back however it is a fantastic B road blaster and in many ways the most fun. With the 4.0 you can be on full throttle enjoying the v8 noise for far longer than the 4.6 and 5.0. You can actually ring the neck of a 4.0 and drive it flat out without too much fear which is great fun. Great high revving fun
4.6 - Technically the best engine with latest cross bolted Rover block. A sorted 4.6 will be faster than a lot of the 5.0s out there. Great tuning potential with the latest block. More power than the 4.0 but still has the high revving nature
5.0 - This gives you a huge shove in the back whenever you go near the loud pedal, feels much faster than it actually is. The amount of torque can catch you out on roundabouts and can be quite intimidating when you first drive it until you get used to it. Does not rev out very well which means you end up riding the torque band lower down in the rev range. 5.0 does have a weak crank and they have been known to snap (quite rare though). Most 5.0s have a chocolate cam needs replacing around 50k, having said that there are some still going over 100k
4.3BV - This is my favourite, highly tuned, almost as much power as the 5.0 but not as much torque. All the high rev fun from the 4.0 and 4.6. Sounds epic and an absolute hoot to drive. 4.3BV is very rare.
I went for the 5.0 in the end as I had to have the 'top' one. For me a TVR is about being pinned back in your seat and being scared every now and then.
The 4.0 is fine for someone who likes to cruise around with the occasional stomp on the loud pedal.
It does not set the world alight performance wise but is fast enough for me.
I bought mine reasonably cheap as i had no interest in spending big on one at the time, and am not really
interested in racing people off the lights.
As a V8 fan in general id like to own a 5.0 just to experience the performance but i would not pay the premium to do so.
It does not set the world alight performance wise but is fast enough for me.
I bought mine reasonably cheap as i had no interest in spending big on one at the time, and am not really
interested in racing people off the lights.
As a V8 fan in general id like to own a 5.0 just to experience the performance but i would not pay the premium to do so.
deeen said:
What was the "error" you are trying not to repeat?
It's difficult to generalise about TVRs because they are all old cars now, often owned by enthusiasts who like to upgrade / improve, so every car will be different.
Just buy one you like!
Bought a nice 97 Rover 623 GSi Auto from a dealer with service history and a brand new ............................ 2 hour old MOT. The service history was faked in fact the oil filter had nearly rusted through. Wipers would not clear the screen, hand brake not working very well turned out to be a totally seized O/S/R brake caliper. Bodged engine support mount. Seems the auto mounts are unobtainum now. Only 1/3 of the high level brake light working, dip beam had one normal bulb and one blue one fitted and both headlights poorly adjusted. Made a complaint but that just got ignored and when i pushed it a bit resulted in threats. Trading Standards were not interested and VOSA eventually did a minimal investigtion that started off with them doing an MOT inspection that revealed to totally seized brake caliper and other faults.It's difficult to generalise about TVRs because they are all old cars now, often owned by enthusiasts who like to upgrade / improve, so every car will be different.
Just buy one you like!
VOSA no help beyond teh MOT retest so ended up paying out to get it all sorted so checked through everything myself and found that the front brakes were pretty well worn so it ended up with one new rear brake caliper new discs all round, new rear flexi hoses as they were cracking. New wipers and the correct bulb to replace the dreadful blue thing. Headlights adjusted and new bulbs in the hi level rear brake light. The oil filter was discovered when I did an oil change and adjusted the tappets.
That was my last buy from a dealer so one that I am keen to avoid a repeat of. Ok it was a few years ago now and we sold the 623 a while ago but you will understand my reluctance to repeat the experience.
I have a 4 but is a 5 really 'much' faster? I'll have to try one sometime.... Looking at the stats table in the Steve Heath book there doesn't appear to be much in it although the 5 is 'slightly' faster - tests done when these cars were all brand new. With the age of these cars it's more down to how sorted a car is I would have thought... People who own a 5 probably have the extra budget to keep them professionally serviced and near to tip top performance whereas I suspect a lot of 4's have been neglected to some extent and lost some performance - Mine only had 170bhp when I bought it but after a year of fettling and servicing (by myself) I got it back to 231bhp and it's all totally standard...
latham91 said:
I have a 4 but is a 5 really 'much' faster? I'll have to try one sometime.... Looking at the stats table in the Steve Heath book there doesn't appear to be much in it although the 5 is 'slightly' faster - tests done when these cars were all brand new. With the age of these cars it's more down to how sorted a car is I would have thought... People who own a 5 probably have the extra budget to keep them professionally serviced and near to tip top performance whereas I suspect a lot of 4's have been neglected to some extent and lost some performance - Mine only had 170bhp when I bought it but after a year of fettling and servicing (by myself) I got it back to 231bhp and it's all totally standard...
Hmmm this is one of my concerns .............................. how well the car has been maintained. Hence my searchng and checking prices of stuff likes cams and valve train. With the engine running as well as it can then fuel consumption should also be the best.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



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