Wiring conundrum...
Discussion
Not being the most talented electrician on earth, the following on my chim has left me stumped.
Battery died after being left for most of Jan and Feb so I replaced it. The headlight full beam (which had been erratic) stopped working completely (although the relay would 'click').
I had a good look at the fuse and relay board (beneath the battery) and its in a right state, looks like it has been dribbled with acid and immersed in water in its life (93L). The headlight relay had the cover missing (melted!) and came out in pieces. The fuses are all intact and unblown.
A replacement relay was put in and nothing happened on turning on full beam (no click, no nothing). I 'wiggled' (a well known technical term!) the relay and it 'made' and the full beam came on. Turn off the beam and back to dipped headlights as expected. turn to sidelights and the main beam comes back on again! The only way to turn off the lights was to remove the relay!!!
My questions are:
1) Any ideas? (other than a duff earth)
2) Is it worth getting a tame TVR sparkey to replace the crappy fuse/relay board
3) If anyone has done 2 above, how much did you pay
4) Is there a better way to get the rewiring done/better aftermarket fuse board etc
5) Did anyone else have the best drive for ages on Saturday!
Apologies for the long mail...any assistance will be greatfully received.
Mike
Battery died after being left for most of Jan and Feb so I replaced it. The headlight full beam (which had been erratic) stopped working completely (although the relay would 'click').
I had a good look at the fuse and relay board (beneath the battery) and its in a right state, looks like it has been dribbled with acid and immersed in water in its life (93L). The headlight relay had the cover missing (melted!) and came out in pieces. The fuses are all intact and unblown.
A replacement relay was put in and nothing happened on turning on full beam (no click, no nothing). I 'wiggled' (a well known technical term!) the relay and it 'made' and the full beam came on. Turn off the beam and back to dipped headlights as expected. turn to sidelights and the main beam comes back on again! The only way to turn off the lights was to remove the relay!!!
My questions are:
1) Any ideas? (other than a duff earth)
2) Is it worth getting a tame TVR sparkey to replace the crappy fuse/relay board
3) If anyone has done 2 above, how much did you pay
4) Is there a better way to get the rewiring done/better aftermarket fuse board etc
5) Did anyone else have the best drive for ages on Saturday!
Apologies for the long mail...any assistance will be greatfully received.
Mike
First job is to meticulously clean the corrosion off all connectors. Just go for it one by one and do them all. It may be your lights now but next week it'll be something else. Spade connector male and female can be cleaned with an emery board. When finished get some electrical spray, WD40 or the like and lightly spray each item and socket before reassembly.
If the board is in the state you suggest then you need to do this before anything else. Chances are this will solve the problem. If not then you could always drive out to a palls house and call the AA/RAC.
If the board is in the state you suggest then you need to do this before anything else. Chances are this will solve the problem. If not then you could always drive out to a palls house and call the AA/RAC.
Mike sounds like either corrossion inside the fusebox or on the relays/fuses, there may also be some 'wear' on the loom at the back of the fuse box.
I have wiring diagram for the fusebox if you want them just let me know.
If it is as cruddy as you say, probably the best way forward is to completely remove the fuse box, and give it a good tlc & greasing. A new relay may fix your problem, but it will be well worth making sure all the contacts on the fusebox are in good order & treated with some electrical grease. It will come out as far as the passenger door still atached to the loom. Safer to disconnect a battery terminal - but not absolutely neccessary with battery up & out of way - but take care with the big brown spade connectors to the fusebox - they are the live ones.. The connectors on the back of the fusebox can all be unplugged, most of them are keyed so will only fit where neccessary, make a note of the few spade connections.
Check the condition of the wiring behind the fusebox, there may be some wires showing signs of damage worth taping these up. Pull all the fuses & relays, clean up the fusebox and stuff electrical contact grease in / over all the contacts - scrape off any corrossion you can see. You can also clean the contacts on the relays & fuses - the relays for the lights are only normal on/off relays (changeover / twins will work as well).
Dave
I have wiring diagram for the fusebox if you want them just let me know.
If it is as cruddy as you say, probably the best way forward is to completely remove the fuse box, and give it a good tlc & greasing. A new relay may fix your problem, but it will be well worth making sure all the contacts on the fusebox are in good order & treated with some electrical grease. It will come out as far as the passenger door still atached to the loom. Safer to disconnect a battery terminal - but not absolutely neccessary with battery up & out of way - but take care with the big brown spade connectors to the fusebox - they are the live ones.. The connectors on the back of the fusebox can all be unplugged, most of them are keyed so will only fit where neccessary, make a note of the few spade connections.
Check the condition of the wiring behind the fusebox, there may be some wires showing signs of damage worth taping these up. Pull all the fuses & relays, clean up the fusebox and stuff electrical contact grease in / over all the contacts - scrape off any corrossion you can see. You can also clean the contacts on the relays & fuses - the relays for the lights are only normal on/off relays (changeover / twins will work as well).
Dave
Sorted...
After visiting a tame TVR sparkey outside Petersfield. Took the grand total of 10 minutes to figure out the replacement relay provided was very similar...but not quite similar enough! Right relay popped in and problem sorted.
I guess check the bleeding obvious first and check the replacement parts are exact replacements and not 'almost' replacements!
Top sparkey Carl...would certainly recommend.
After visiting a tame TVR sparkey outside Petersfield. Took the grand total of 10 minutes to figure out the replacement relay provided was very similar...but not quite similar enough! Right relay popped in and problem sorted.
I guess check the bleeding obvious first and check the replacement parts are exact replacements and not 'almost' replacements!
Top sparkey Carl...would certainly recommend.
hi, pleased to hear that you sparky sorted you. I am having severe probs with electical problems and again i think it may be the fuse box. So if there are any experts out there some clues would be great as I am now pullin my hair out ( that's after I've done the same to the dash, fuse box, wiring loom etc etc.)
1995 griff 500
2 brown live feeds are good to back of fuse box but red wire to ignition switch is dead. I i force feed the ignition switch with juice the beast works fine, fires up and runs great.
what feeds this red live, i had assumed that this should always be permanently live. as when ignition is switched on then the main ecu/ignition relay kicks in.
Who made the fuse box? was it made for someone elses standard car, seems to be made in ireland but has either spanish ot italian text molded into it. I have stripped it to check it and there doesnt seem to be much corrosion. but I| have now stuffed it. so need a replacement, anyone got one ..........HELP
Was fitted with a gemini immobiliser, which has been bypassed or does this actually control the permanent live feed to the ignition switch, i don't think it does as i seem to remember that even with the immobiliser on the ignition lights and instruments still fired up just not the pump and starter motor, please correct me if i am wrong.
spent last 4 weeks on this now and the weather is hotting up so I am getting frustrated. Any help appreciated
cheers
Kevin
(Bucks)
1995 griff 500
2 brown live feeds are good to back of fuse box but red wire to ignition switch is dead. I i force feed the ignition switch with juice the beast works fine, fires up and runs great.
what feeds this red live, i had assumed that this should always be permanently live. as when ignition is switched on then the main ecu/ignition relay kicks in.
Who made the fuse box? was it made for someone elses standard car, seems to be made in ireland but has either spanish ot italian text molded into it. I have stripped it to check it and there doesnt seem to be much corrosion. but I| have now stuffed it. so need a replacement, anyone got one ..........HELP
Was fitted with a gemini immobiliser, which has been bypassed or does this actually control the permanent live feed to the ignition switch, i don't think it does as i seem to remember that even with the immobiliser on the ignition lights and instruments still fired up just not the pump and starter motor, please correct me if i am wrong.
spent last 4 weeks on this now and the weather is hotting up so I am getting frustrated. Any help appreciated
cheers
Kevin
(Bucks)
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