Gasket advise please

[Tony91]

What gasket should I go for on the sump as I have a leak?
Should it be cork or the rubber ones its the 16 hole sump.
Should the gasket be put on dry or a gasket seal of some kind be used with the gasket or just use a silicon seal and no gasket?
Advice would be appreciated I will try tightening up the bolts to start with 23nm is that the correct value?

[Tangoed]

I got one of these and it worked a treat.

ROVER V8 NEW HEAVE DUTY PERFORATED SUMP GASKET FOR ALL TVR V8 MODELS

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-V8-NEW-HEAVE-DUTY-...

[WinstonWolf]

Check the pickup while you have the sump off, bits of the old cork type can end up in there.

[Tony91]

Tangoed said:

I got one of these and it worked a treat.

ROVER V8 NEW HEAVE DUTY PERFORATED SUMP GASKET FOR ALL TVR V8 MODELS

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-V8-NEW-HEAVE-DUTY-...

Thanks for that did have a look at those but they are showing 17 fixing holes was it correct?

[Tony91]

WinstonWolf said:

Check the pickup while you have the sump off, bits of the old cork type can end up in there.

Thanks for the heads up

[jojackson4]

Have a search on here it's been covered a lot
The cork brakes up and leaks
The rubber one shrinks and leaks


Good luck

[ClassicChimaera]

jojackson4 said:

Have a search on here it's been covered a lot
The cork brakes up and leaks
The rubber one shrinks and leaks


Good luck

[Pupp]

Done pretty much all the variations on this discussed on here over the years. Never had any success with Silicone RTV instant gaskets, whether assembled wet or allowed to cure before clamping up.

The rubber 'improved' ones off EBay etc are pants. Shoddy nasty things made from a completely inappropriate EPDM material that is destroyed by hot oil... really, just don't.

Cork.... FFS it's the 21st Century; there must be something better (just haven't used it yet and I hate the things)

Which leaves self adhesive nitrile closed cell high density foam. Was hoping for great things with this and it did seem to work for a while.... but, mine is now leaking like a sieve. There must be scope for someone to develop a pattern for a high density solid seal that can be stamped or cut from an oil resistant grade of silicone.

And to anyone about to point out theirs is completely oil tight, go do 15k miles a year on FI and then crow about it!

[jojackson4]

Pupp said:

Done pretty much all the variations on this discussed on here over the years. Never had any success with Silicone RTV instant gaskets, whether assembled wet or allowed to cure before clamping up.

The rubber 'improved' ones off EBay etc are pants. Shoddy nasty things made from a completely inappropriate EPDM material that is destroyed by hot oil... really, just don't.

Cork.... FFS it's the 21st Century; there must be something better (just haven't used it yet and I hate the things)

Which leaves self adhesive nitrile closed cell high density foam. Was hoping for great things with this and it did seem to work for a while.... but, mine is now leaking like a sieve. There must be scope for someone to develop a pattern for a high density solid seal that can be stamped or cut from an oil resistant grade of silicone.

And to anyone about to point out theirs is completely oil tight, go do 15k miles a year on FI and then crow about it!

st

[WinstonWolf]

Pupp said:

Done pretty much all the variations on this discussed on here over the years. Never had any success with Silicone RTV instant gaskets, whether assembled wet or allowed to cure before clamping up.

The rubber 'improved' ones off EBay etc are pants. Shoddy nasty things made from a completely inappropriate EPDM material that is destroyed by hot oil... really, just don't.

Cork.... FFS it's the 21st Century; there must be something better (just haven't used it yet and I hate the things)

Which leaves self adhesive nitrile closed cell high density foam. Was hoping for great things with this and it did seem to work for a while.... but, mine is now leaking like a sieve. There must be scope for someone to develop a pattern for a high density solid seal that can be stamped or cut from an oil resistant grade of silicone.

And to anyone about to point out theirs is completely oil tight, go do 15k miles a year on FI and then crow about it!

Draw file the sump pressing (if you're competent with a file ) and see how out of flat it is. Mine's been *almost* oiltight since I did it.

[Tony91]

WinstonWolf said:

Draw file the sump pressing (if you're competent with a file ) and see how out of flat it is. Mine's been *almost* oiltight since I did it.

I can understand the flatting of the mating surfaces if you have a surface plate but what gasket and sealant did you use?
Would it be an advantage to change the bolts to studs and then use washers and nuts to fix the sump pan.
I see that the rubber rocker cover has 4 metal spacers so that it is not over tightened and distorted has any one turned any spacers and used the same type of system to fix the sump gasket on this will allow the gasket to be compressed but not to the point of distortion.
Just a thought.

[WinstonWolf]

Tony91 said:

WinstonWolf said:

Draw file the sump pressing (if you're competent with a file ) and see how out of flat it is. Mine's been *almost* oiltight since I did it.

I can understand the flatting of the mating surfaces if you have a surface plate but what gasket and sealant did you use?
Would it be an advantage to change the bolts to studs and then use washers and nuts to fix the sump pan.
I see that the rubber rocker cover has 4 metal spacers so that it is not over tightened and distorted has any one turned any spacers and used the same type of system to fix the sump gasket on this will allow the gasket to be compressed but not to the point of distortion.
Just a thought.

I haven't got a surface plate but my first exercise as an apprentice was to remove 1mm from a steel block with a file keeping it flat and square, time allowed 40 hours

A sheet of glass and some carborundum paper will also do the trick if you're not used to filing flat. Mine's a lot better as it has a better mating face but the screws still loosen occasionally near the crank seal. Might try some Nordlock washers next time I'm under there...

I used a cork gasket and Hylomar Blue.

[caduceus]

Dirko-S

If you get a leak using this stuff, you're not doing it right.

[phillpot]

caduceus said:

Dirko-S

If you get a leak using this stuff, you're not doing it right.

Looks the bizz! ..... clicky

[Tony91]

caduceus said:

Dirko-S

If you get a leak using this stuff, you're not doing it right.

Is this just used on its own or in conjunction with a gasket?
I thought that a silicon based sealant wasn't recommended if you have catalysts.
Surely there must be a tried and tested way of sealing the sump getting confused now

[jojackson4]

caduceus said:

Dirko-S

If you get a leak using this stuff, you're not doing it right.

I'm not doing it right

[Pupp]

Me neither; I tried Dirko on the basis of such recommendations and it failed probably more quickly than anything. Both wet assembled and pre-cured.

Dense closely grained cork with a dressing of something like Hylomar, nipped up by bolts coated with a thread sealant will be my next attempt.

[Pupp]

Tony91 said:

I see that the rubber rocker cover has 4 metal spacers so that it is not over tightened and distorted has any one turned any spacers and used the same type of system to fix the sump gasket on this will allow the gasket to be compressed but not to the point of distortion.
Just a thought.

Be a great idea if that joint was routinely oil tight; my experience is it is not....

[carsy]

Pupp said:

Dense closely grained cork with a dressing of something like Hylomar, nipped up by bolts coated with a thread sealant will be my next attempt.

What you got in mind Gary, a £5 ebay special ?

May have a go with the cork myself this time round.

[stevesprint]

jojackson4 said:

Have a search on here it's been covered a lot
The cork brakes up and leaks
The rubber one shrinks and leaks
Good luck

John Eales has had some specially made and they are not rubber or cork.
http://www.johnealesroverv8.co.uk/11.html