Steering shaft UJs
Discussion
I need to put back on my newly painted shaft and UJs, one of which is new (one nearest bulkhead).
Now I have already tried several times today and once on (but the rack not bolted back down (which is another ball ache) , the wheel won't turn because the UJs are binding. I think its the new one but can't be 100% certain as that would be a 2 man job.
Is there a specific way/method of putting this all back together that I'm blissfully unaware of? Do I need to undo the steering column (a road I really don't want to go down, but will if necessary) and move that back to get the distance needed, instead of unbolting the rack?
So far today it's been
Any help really appreciated
Cad
Now I have already tried several times today and once on (but the rack not bolted back down (which is another ball ache) , the wheel won't turn because the UJs are binding. I think its the new one but can't be 100% certain as that would be a 2 man job.
Is there a specific way/method of putting this all back together that I'm blissfully unaware of? Do I need to undo the steering column (a road I really don't want to go down, but will if necessary) and move that back to get the distance needed, instead of unbolting the rack?
So far today it's been
Any help really appreciated
Cad
Is the new u/j exactly as long as the one you took out?
Are both u/js in the same plane as each other, i.e. the spiders of each u/j must exactly align with each other and the cross-bolt of each u/j should be in line with the cut-outs on the lower column.
Also when re-attaching it all, the rack bar must be central left to right in the rack casing and the steering wheel rotated into its correct position.
Silly question, but if the steering won't rotate have you unlocked the steering lock?
Finally don't do up the cross-bolts until have bolted the rack into place.
There is no reason why you would need to unbolt the upper steering column. Providing the two u/js and the lower column are exactly the same length as what you took out I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't go back together again.
Best of luck.
Are both u/js in the same plane as each other, i.e. the spiders of each u/j must exactly align with each other and the cross-bolt of each u/j should be in line with the cut-outs on the lower column.
Also when re-attaching it all, the rack bar must be central left to right in the rack casing and the steering wheel rotated into its correct position.
Silly question, but if the steering won't rotate have you unlocked the steering lock?
Finally don't do up the cross-bolts until have bolted the rack into place.
There is no reason why you would need to unbolt the upper steering column. Providing the two u/js and the lower column are exactly the same length as what you took out I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't go back together again.
Best of luck.
Hedgehopper said:
Is the new u/j exactly as long as the one you took out?
I can't be certain. The old one had to be cut off in bits. It would not come off at all.Hedgehopper said:
Are both u/js in the same plane as each other, i.e. the spiders of each u/j must exactly align with each other and the cross-bolt of each u/j should be in line with the cut-outs on the lower column.
When you say spiders, you mean splines right?
So you mean the UJs must be orientated in line with each other? If that's what you mean, no, I didn't do that. I just put them on the way that aligns the bolt with the cut out on the shaft.Hedgehopper said:
Silly question, but if the steering won't rotate have you unlocked the steering lock?
Yes.Hedgehopper said:
Also when re-attaching it all, the rack bar must be central left to right in the rack casing and the steering wheel rotated into its correct position.
The discs are on and pointing, as far as I can see it, straight forward.If the cross bolts are aligned with the cut outs in the lower column then the u/js should be aligned.
The spider is the cross piece in the centre of the u/j that the bearings rotate upon and it is these that should be in line with each other. If you have done the above then this should be OK.
You should be able to fit or remove the two u/js and lower column complete as one assembly providing that each of the three units are the correct length. Be aware that if you replace anything, different length u/js and splined column are available.
The u/js must be free on their splines to enable you to adjust the three components into their correct position.
I suspect that if your steering won't rotate your new u/j might be too long.
The spider is the cross piece in the centre of the u/j that the bearings rotate upon and it is these that should be in line with each other. If you have done the above then this should be OK.
You should be able to fit or remove the two u/js and lower column complete as one assembly providing that each of the three units are the correct length. Be aware that if you replace anything, different length u/js and splined column are available.
The u/js must be free on their splines to enable you to adjust the three components into their correct position.
I suspect that if your steering won't rotate your new u/j might be too long.
Not so far as I know, mine are both the same, but different lengths are available for manual and power racks.
If you have a look on the Racetech or other sites you will get an idea as to what sizes are available. You could then assemble the old u/j and the lower splined column and measure what size would fit to fill the gap.
If you have a look on the Racetech or other sites you will get an idea as to what sizes are available. You could then assemble the old u/j and the lower splined column and measure what size would fit to fill the gap.
Powers performance list three joints for the Chim...........
http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store
http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store
I shall sift through the pile of receipts in the morning to find out what I was supplied, and go from there. After making sure the UJs were aligned in the same orientation as HH suggested, the wheel still didn't turn. They are binding for some reason. Metal hitting metal. Something's not right.... 
This provided us with one of the biggest headaches in our ownership of Kate. Two new steering shaft UJ's bought, wouldn't fit without binding, two replacements sent according to measurements and still the same. New shaft supplied but still no joy, the steering was so tight it wouldn't self-centre at all. In the end it turned out that in true TVR fashion (bless em) Kate had been built with a steering shaft from a one-off batch and the UJ's had been made to suit, obviously no longer available. So the whole lower section of the steeeing column was non-standard. The only solution was to have a new shaft made by a company that could do splining and go to a mis-matched pair of UJ's that would fit. At least we should never have to go through it all again....
KateV8 said:
This provided us with one of the biggest headaches in our ownership of Kate. Two new steering shaft UJ's bought, wouldn't fit without binding, two replacements sent according to measurements and still the same. New shaft supplied but still no joy, the steering was so tight it wouldn't self-centre at all. In the end it turned out that in true TVR fashion (bless em) Kate had been built with a steering shaft from a one-off batch and the UJ's had been made to suit, obviously no longer available. So the whole lower section of the steeeing column was non-standard. The only solution was to have a new shaft made by a company that could do splining and go to a mis-matched pair of UJ's that would fit. At least we should never have to go through it all again....
Oh f
k. Reading that fills me with dread... 
s p a c e m a n said:
Grind the ujs back on the bits that are fouling or are they miles off of fitting properly?
I did contemplate that, but I'm worried about it changing the integrity of the UJ. The thought of losing steering due to a snapped UJ gives me a turtle head I might just try a smidgen and see if it frees it up.
If the actual u/js are binding then the shaft must be too long. The binding might be the edges of the yokes clashing with each other or the splined shaft protruding too far into the joint and jambing the spider.
Are you fitting parts that you have previously used on this car, apart from the one u/j that you are replacing? If so, your new u/j must be too long.
When I converted my car to power steering I used bought in parts but could not find a shaft of the correct length. I went to Car Builder Solutions and bought a shaft of the nearest available length. I also bought 100mm of CDS tube which they sell for the express purpose of joining cut shafts together. My local machine shop welded it up for £18.00.
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/cold-drawn-s...
To measure how long the new shaft should be I used a piece of wooden dowel which I then cut in half. I slid the two pieces into a short length of plastic tube so that I could vary its length and used this to determine the finished length I required.
Are you fitting parts that you have previously used on this car, apart from the one u/j that you are replacing? If so, your new u/j must be too long.
When I converted my car to power steering I used bought in parts but could not find a shaft of the correct length. I went to Car Builder Solutions and bought a shaft of the nearest available length. I also bought 100mm of CDS tube which they sell for the express purpose of joining cut shafts together. My local machine shop welded it up for £18.00.
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/cold-drawn-s...
To measure how long the new shaft should be I used a piece of wooden dowel which I then cut in half. I slid the two pieces into a short length of plastic tube so that I could vary its length and used this to determine the finished length I required.
Hedgehopper said:
To measure how long the new shaft should be I used a piece of wooden dowel which I then cut in half. I slid the two pieces into a short length of plastic tube so that I could vary its length and used this to determine the finished length I required.
No way for me to tell. That shaft must be the correct length for your car and there is very little latitude. I couldn't buy one for my car from dealer stock but using the method I have described it was easy enough to measure and have one made up.If you are replacing exactly what you had in there before apart from the damaged u/j then surely all you need is a new u/j of the same length?
Fit the top and bottom UJs to the splined shaft.
Ensure that they are opened up fully, slid on to the shaft with the shaft cut outs lined up with the position that the bolts fit through the UJs.
Fit the clamping bolts loosely.
Offer the assembly up to the column and the rack splines and you will easily see if you have the correct length UJs.
Once that has been established then remove the clamping bolts from the UJs, ensure the splines are nicely lubed to give you a little leeway when fitting and slide the lower UJ and shaft onto the rack as far as it will go.
Once that has slid on then the top UJ will follow.
Much easier to do all this once you have opened up the UJs.
If you are ill equipped for this, (no ground down pryers or chisels to tap in), use a couple of old flat bladed screwdrivers tapped into place to open up the joints, stubbies are best.
If the steering wheel isn't centred, (which it probably won't be) remove, (3 legged universal puller) and centre.
Jobs a goodun!
Having had racks in and out of my 2 chims probably at least a dozen times I have never encountered a problem, (as long as you have the correct UJs!).
Ensure that they are opened up fully, slid on to the shaft with the shaft cut outs lined up with the position that the bolts fit through the UJs.
Fit the clamping bolts loosely.
Offer the assembly up to the column and the rack splines and you will easily see if you have the correct length UJs.
Once that has been established then remove the clamping bolts from the UJs, ensure the splines are nicely lubed to give you a little leeway when fitting and slide the lower UJ and shaft onto the rack as far as it will go.
Once that has slid on then the top UJ will follow.
Much easier to do all this once you have opened up the UJs.
If you are ill equipped for this, (no ground down pryers or chisels to tap in), use a couple of old flat bladed screwdrivers tapped into place to open up the joints, stubbies are best.
If the steering wheel isn't centred, (which it probably won't be) remove, (3 legged universal puller) and centre.
Jobs a goodun!
Having had racks in and out of my 2 chims probably at least a dozen times I have never encountered a problem, (as long as you have the correct UJs!).
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