Central Locking Re-Wire Great Escape with Cliff
Discussion
I've got a classic (read old) 1993 vintage Chimaera with old style central locking (the one with the huge CPU box under the passenger side dash).
Now, some wise arse decided to remove it when they took out their alarm before I acquired it, so locking has never worked.
I've just had a Clifford system installed and want to attempt to wire up the locking motors behind the doors to the alarm system, so I have remote central locking
Now, Carl at TVR UK reckons there's two wires under the dash that should've been connected to the locking CPU.
and if I connected a battery to those two wires the motors behind the doors would fire up.
Just wanted to know if anybody has any experience of this and if I'm on the right lines! Because there's other stuff to consider such as the little green light on the door opener knob and the motor to stop the knob twiddling
Thanks.
Ed:- to remove wire coding
Mail info if required.
Big Al.
Now, some wise arse decided to remove it when they took out their alarm before I acquired it, so locking has never worked.
I've just had a Clifford system installed and want to attempt to wire up the locking motors behind the doors to the alarm system, so I have remote central locking
Now, Carl at TVR UK reckons there's two wires under the dash that should've been connected to the locking CPU.
and if I connected a battery to those two wires the motors behind the doors would fire up. Just wanted to know if anybody has any experience of this and if I'm on the right lines! Because there's other stuff to consider such as the little green light on the door opener knob and the motor to stop the knob twiddling
Thanks.
Ed:- to remove wire coding
Mail info if required.
Big Al.
Mine is like that, there is also a green wire that is the limit switch. I have a laserline alarm fitted, but it works in conjunction with the original CDL / immobilizer unit, not sure if it helps but I made a wiring diagram if you want a look at it. Was the connector for the original hacked off? - its a 16way (2x8) multi connector.
Dave
Dave
spend said:
Mine is like that, there is also a green wire that is the limit switch. I have a laserline alarm fitted, but it works in conjunction with the original CDL / immobilizer unit, not sure if it helps but I made a wiring diagram if you want a look at it. Was the connector for the original hacked off? - its a 16way (2x8) multi connector.
Dave
A wiring diagram would be great thanks!
Sorry, forgot to mention there are no connectors left. Everything was hacked off.
>> Edited by schueymcfee on Monday 21st March 14:09
spend said:
I've mailed the diag to you Stuart. I would'nt have thought that disclosing the colour of the wires to the door lock motors qualifies as a security risk, unlike explaining how to use sticks & baseball bats to gain entry :-)
Dave
Got it, that's great Dave thanks for your help on this.
spend said:
I would'nt have thought that disclosing the colour of the wires to the door lock motors qualifies as a security risk
There probably isn't but why take the risk!
Any information to the wrong person is too much IMHO!
IIRC there was a saying during the war (and before you lot start, I wasn't there! so,
) Does he really need to know!
And as far as security information or wiring diags on Tiv's are concerned, I would say , NO!
Not giving too much away security wise but there are two ways of doing this.
You can either get the new alarm to send the correct pulse to the central locking unit or get the alarm to send a reverse polarity feed to the two motors direct.
The green light on the door opener will work regardless.
You can either get the new alarm to send the correct pulse to the central locking unit or get the alarm to send a reverse polarity feed to the two motors direct.
The green light on the door opener will work regardless.
Ribol said:
Not giving too much away security wise but there are two ways of doing this.
You can either get the new alarm to send the correct pulse to the central locking unit or get the alarm to send a reverse polarity feed to the two motors direct.
The green light on the door opener will work regardless.
The last part is good to know - but there is no CL unit for the alarm to send a pulse to.
So, it looks like I need to get the alarm to send a reverse polarity feed as you've said.
Now without going into specifics, just what exactly am I doing to send a reverse polarity feed
in basic/general terms how do I acheive this - (electronics isn't my strongest point)
! Thanks.
>> Edited by schueymcfee on Monday 21st March 16:38
ok, strap yourself in this could be a rough one
Talking not too specifically, the door solenoid is a DC motor. Apply voltage one way it goes one way(lock), apply voltage the other way round it goes the other way(unlock).
Now, an alarm unit that can interface with central locking can be set up all sorts of ways. They can deal with vacuum, total closure, negative pulse, positive pulse and the final one which is the one you want, reverse polarity. There will be a way of wiring up the alarm where you end up with two wires in your hand that will give reverse polarity. The alarm will send pos & neg for say two seconds when locking and neg & pos for two second when unlocking. Your two motors have to be connected in parallel and then connected to the two wires mentioned earlier. Job done.
Does that make any sense?
Talking not too specifically, the door solenoid is a DC motor. Apply voltage one way it goes one way(lock), apply voltage the other way round it goes the other way(unlock).
Now, an alarm unit that can interface with central locking can be set up all sorts of ways. They can deal with vacuum, total closure, negative pulse, positive pulse and the final one which is the one you want, reverse polarity. There will be a way of wiring up the alarm where you end up with two wires in your hand that will give reverse polarity. The alarm will send pos & neg for say two seconds when locking and neg & pos for two second when unlocking. Your two motors have to be connected in parallel and then connected to the two wires mentioned earlier. Job done.
Does that make any sense?
Ribol said:
ok, strap yourself in this could be a rough one ![]()
Talking not too specifically, the door solenoid is a DC motor. Apply voltage one way it goes one way(lock), apply voltage the other way round it goes the other way(unlock).
Now, an alarm unit that can interface with central locking can be set up all sorts of ways. They can deal with vacuum, total closure, negative pulse, positive pulse and the final one which is the one you want, reverse polarity. There will be a way of wiring up the alarm where you end up with two wires in your hand that will give reverse polarity. The alarm will send pos & neg for say two seconds when locking and neg & pos for two second when unlocking. Your two motors have to be connected in parallel and then connected to the two wires mentioned earlier. Job done.
Does that make any sense?
Got it - I think!
Now, before I wire up to the alarm can I test the motors to make sure they're working?
I'm assuming all I have to do is wire up the motor to the battery to lock and then reverse the wires to unlock?
edited to add: Just looked at the wiring diagram Dave sent me. There's actually 4 wires - 2 for each locking motor - so all I need to do is put a live feed and earth onto those 4 wires to get the motors to fire
>> Edited by schueymcfee on Monday 21st March 16:55
schueymcfee said:
I'm assuming all I have to do is wire up the motor to the battery to lock and then reverse the wires to unlock?
edited to add: Just looked at the wiring diagram Dave sent me. There's actually 4 wires - 2 for each locking motor - so all I need to do is put a live feed and earth onto those 4 wires to get the motors to fire
You have 4 wires, if there is a God, regardless of tracers there will only be two colours?
So, if you have two blues and two reds, you connect the two blues together, two reds together, this will ensure they are in phase. You now have one blue wire and one red effectively. These two wires need to go across a battery one way and then the other to lock unlock the car. This will show they both work ok.
Ribol said:
schueymcfee said:
I'm assuming all I have to do is wire up the motor to the battery to lock and then reverse the wires to unlock?
edited to add: Just looked at the wiring diagram Dave sent me. There's actually 4 wires - 2 for each locking motor - so all I need to do is put a live feed and earth onto those 4 wires to get the motors to fire
You have 4 wires, if there is a God, regardless of tracers there will only be two colours?
So, if you have two blues and two reds, you connect the two blues together, two reds together, this will ensure they are in phase. You now have one blue wire and one red effectively. These two wires need to go across a battery one way and then the other to lock unlock the car. This will show they both work ok.
Okay, I'll give it a try and see what happens!
Thanks for the advice.
Nearly an hour now.
I can imagine him coming back in the house looking like something out of the Black and White Minstrel show!
Just a thought? did anybody hear him mumbling anything thing about "I'm going outside I may be gone sometime"
>> Edited by Big Al. on Monday 21st March 18:14
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sorry about that - Monday morning, just wasn't thinking!