how to remove the Gemini alarm
Discussion
OleVix said:
Just want to rip it out and reconnect... umh... which wires go to who?
No immobiliser on this lhd Griff

I would expect that alarm to have a immobiliser circuit and the wire colours grey and white ring a bell but that could be well off the mark
Here's a list of circuits that it will wire into
Battery supply
Battery return (earth)
Ignition
Indicator LH
Indicator RH
Bonnet Switch
Boot Switch
Door Switches(drivers side plus maybe others)
2 X Wires for immobiliser
LED warning light (2 x wires thin like speaker cable)
2 X ultrasonic sensor wires or volumetric sensor x 1
Possibly 2 x wires to operate a central locking module or directly to drivers side door lock actuator
This is just an alarm and no immobiliser? What do you want to reconnect? If it's just an alarm you should be able to unplug the box and not do anything else to the loom, you'll just lose the remote central locking facility if this is what was controlling it. If it is an immobiliser it's not so easy 

s p a c e m a n said:
This is just an alarm and no immobiliser? What do you want to reconnect? If it's just an alarm you should be able to unplug the box and not do anything else to the loom, you'll just lose the remote central locking facility if this is what was controlling it. If it is an immobiliser it's not so easy 
if the ignition goes through the alarm wont unplugging it render the ignition dead?
Penelope Stopit said:
Just follow the wires and cut them off where they terminate and insulate where you cut them with self amalgamating tape and then tape the loom back up as needed
I would expect that alarm to have a immobiliser circuit and the wire colours grey and white ring a bell but that could be well off the mark
Here's a list of circuits that it will wire into
Battery supply
Battery return (earth)
Ignition
Indicator LH
Indicator RH
Bonnet Switch
Boot Switch
Door Switches(drivers side plus maybe others)
2 X Wires for immobiliser
LED warning light (2 x wires thin like speaker cable)
2 X ultrasonic sensor wires or volumetric sensor x 1
Possibly 2 x wires to operate a central locking module or directly to drivers side door lock actuator
You mean cutting the wiring loom (electrical tape) open and follow each wire?I would expect that alarm to have a immobiliser circuit and the wire colours grey and white ring a bell but that could be well off the mark
Here's a list of circuits that it will wire into
Battery supply
Battery return (earth)
Ignition
Indicator LH
Indicator RH
Bonnet Switch
Boot Switch
Door Switches(drivers side plus maybe others)
2 X Wires for immobiliser
LED warning light (2 x wires thin like speaker cable)
2 X ultrasonic sensor wires or volumetric sensor x 1
Possibly 2 x wires to operate a central locking module or directly to drivers side door lock actuator
If the ignition goes through the alarm then it's got an immobiliser in it, if it's just an alarm then it should just be a seperate system like unplugging your car radio.
If it is an immobiliser it'll probably only be on two circuits, the starter motor and fuel pump. Try just unplugging it first and see if the car starts, if it doesn't there must be a circuit diagram for the thing on Google somehere to hunt down
If it is an immobiliser it'll probably only be on two circuits, the starter motor and fuel pump. Try just unplugging it first and see if the car starts, if it doesn't there must be a circuit diagram for the thing on Google somehere to hunt down

Yes cut the wires out and get the loom back to standard, you could even cut the whole joints out and rejoin the original wire covering it with heat-shrink, self amalamating (rubber tape) will cover the joints properly and waterproof them, just make sure you stretch the tape as you wrap it around the joints, the tape is very stretchable, then tape the loom back up as standard
Here is a wiring diagram and German to English Colour Codes, as I mentioned above, the alarm does have a immobiliser circuit and the wires used are white and grey, I have not been near one of these for many years so my brain must still be functioning correctly to remember those 2 wire colours, good hey
BL - Blau - Blue
BR - Braun - Brown
GE - Gelb - Yellow
GN - Grün - Green
GR - Grau - Grey
OR - Orange - Orange
RS - Rosa - Pink
RT - Rot - Red
SW - Schwartz - Black
VI - Violett - Purple
WS - weiß - White
TR - Transparent - Transparent

Here is a wiring diagram and German to English Colour Codes, as I mentioned above, the alarm does have a immobiliser circuit and the wires used are white and grey, I have not been near one of these for many years so my brain must still be functioning correctly to remember those 2 wire colours, good hey
BL - Blau - Blue
BR - Braun - Brown
GE - Gelb - Yellow
GN - Grün - Green
GR - Grau - Grey
OR - Orange - Orange
RS - Rosa - Pink
RT - Rot - Red
SW - Schwartz - Black
VI - Violett - Purple
WS - weiß - White
TR - Transparent - Transparent
Here is some more help
2 x Orange wires - LH/RH Indicators
1 x Pink wire - LED (Alarm On)
1 x Red wire - Fused Battery Supply
1 x Brown wire - Earth Return (Body,Ground)
1 x Yellow wire - Ignition Supply
1 x Grey wire / 1 x White wire - Immobiliser Circuit - Probably breaks the starter motor crank wire but although not a good thing to do maybe the coil ignition supply
Think positive and rip them out, you don't want that rubbish floating about in a nice car
2 x Orange wires - LH/RH Indicators
1 x Pink wire - LED (Alarm On)
1 x Red wire - Fused Battery Supply
1 x Brown wire - Earth Return (Body,Ground)
1 x Yellow wire - Ignition Supply
1 x Grey wire / 1 x White wire - Immobiliser Circuit - Probably breaks the starter motor crank wire but although not a good thing to do maybe the coil ignition supply
- ***Maybe***** Green with a Brown Trace, Violet or a Blue wire - Door Switches/Boot/Bonnet*****Maybe*****
Think positive and rip them out, you don't want that rubbish floating about in a nice car
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Monday 9th January 09:34
I'm guessing because I've not got a grief, but the alarm is a factory fitment so it's not really a case of removing the wiring for it because it's part of the original loom. The starting point would be to unplug it and see what you lose, I'm guessing that the car won't start or lock, but all of the lights/indicators will still work.
The next bit is what you're planning to do, are you fitting another alarm/immobiliser? Can you lock a griefs doors with a key? If not then you might as well fit another alarm so that you get the remote central locking control function.
The next bit is what you're planning to do, are you fitting another alarm/immobiliser? Can you lock a griefs doors with a key? If not then you might as well fit another alarm so that you get the remote central locking control function.
s p a c e m a n said:
I'm guessing because I've not got a grief, but the alarm is a factory fitment so it's not really a case of removing the wiring for it because it's part of the original loom. The starting point would be to unplug it and see what you lose, I'm guessing that the car won't start or lock, but all of the lights/indicators will still work.
The next bit is what you're planning to do, are you fitting another alarm/immobiliser? Can you lock a griefs doors with a key? If not then you might as well fit another alarm so that you get the remote central locking control function.
It is very easy to untape a loom and remove wires then tape back up when all the interior loom is accessible, you will end up with a faster car and better fuel consumption once that weight of rubbish is in the binThe next bit is what you're planning to do, are you fitting another alarm/immobiliser? Can you lock a griefs doors with a key? If not then you might as well fit another alarm so that you get the remote central locking control function.
You can also get a remote central locking kit without alarm, here is one of many http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-REMOTE-KEYLESS...
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Monday 9th January 16:32
I managed to fit a similar system to that one to a friends car, but powered the door solenoid relays found under the dash directly from the remote unit, so you don't need the motorised door locks, but from memory I had to fit two extra relays. It also had the option of remote boot opening that was quite easy to wire in.
blitzracing said:
I managed to fit a similar system to that one to a friends car, but powered the door solenoid relays found under the dash directly from the remote unit, so you don't need the motorised door locks, but from memory I had to fit two extra relays. It also had the option of remote boot opening that was quite easy to wire in.
yep thats what I want!OleVix said:
blitzracing said:
I managed to fit a similar system to that one to a friends car, but powered the door solenoid relays found under the dash directly from the remote unit, so you don't need the motorised door locks, but from memory I had to fit two extra relays. It also had the option of remote boot opening that was quite easy to wire in.
yep thats what I want!Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



