Clutch slave seals?

[caduceus]

I noticed some black sediment in the clutch fluid reservoir the other day. Then looked under the dash to find the rubber grommet thingy at the top of the clutch pedal is wet/moist.
Seals gone I assume..?

Is there a kit I can buy to overhaul the unit? May as well do the brake cylinder too as I assume the whole pedal box needs to come out?

I'm not looking forward to this particular job. Already have a sore lower back

[phillpot]

caduceus said:

. Then looked under the dash to find the rubber grommet thingy at the top of the clutch pedal is wet/moist.
Seals gone I assume..?

So that'll be the Master cylinder? ...


For the work involved in changing it I wouldn't bother with seals, fit complete new unit.

[nawarne]

phillpot said:

caduceus said:

. Then looked under the dash to find the rubber grommet thingy at the top of the clutch pedal is wet/moist.
Seals gone I assume..?

So that'll be the Master cylinder? ...


For the work involved in changing it I wouldn't bother with seals, fit complete new unit.

I'd agree - when master went on my Chimaera, I tried the seal refurb' kit....even gave it to one of the mech-techs at work. Just couldn't get it to work.

4 days before setting off for Le Mans, bit the bullet and got a new master cylinder...Arrived in post, fitted and bled in about 4 hours..Phew! (TIP: superglue nuts to new cylinder before positioning at pedal box...you can just offer bolts through to tighten up - well, with my arms anyway!)
Nick

[caduceus]

Thanks for the replies chaps.
I assume the Borg & Beck one sold by RacetechTVR is better quality than the re-manufactured one sold by TVR parts?

[Discopotatoes]

caduceus said:

Thanks for the replies chaps.
I assume the Borg & Beck one sold by RacetechTVR is better quality than the re-manufactured one sold by TVR parts?

Cwhile your at it, it would be worth checking the master cylinder for full movement, when I put mine back in there was a load of gunk around the end of the piston, this was probably what caused my first RST clutch to fail, as the piston wouldn't return fully giving the same effect as riding the clutch

[caduceus]

Discopotatoes said:

Cwhile your at it, it would be worth checking the master cylinder for full movement,

Are you talking about checking the brand new item for full movement? Obviously I wouldn't be checking the old one as it will be going in the bin (unless it's serviceable).

[N7GTX]

There is a warning about the rod length on Powers site:

http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/clut...

[caduceus]

Thanks Iain, will make sure I take the bugger out and measure first.

Do you have any idea if there is a nack on how to remove the clevis pin assy from the pedal? Am I right in assuming the whole pedal box doesn't need to come out? It looks like it's just the two bolts and the pushrod to pedal...

[Discopotatoes]

caduceus said:

Discopotatoes said:

Cwhile your at it, it would be worth checking the master cylinder for full movement,

Are you talking about checking the brand new item for full movement? Obviously I wouldn't be checking the old one as it will be going in the bin (unless it's serviceable).

I'm talking about the slave not the master, but if you've bought a new slave too, cancel my last
Sorry I just read what I previously wrote, my bad

[N7GTX]

caduceus said:

Thanks Iain, will make sure I take the bugger out and measure first.

Do you have any idea if there is a nack on how to remove the clevis pin assy from the pedal? Am I right in assuming the whole pedal box doesn't need to come out? It looks like it's just the two bolts and the pushrod to pedal...

No, don't remove the pedal box. Unscrew the pipe first while the unit is secure. Disconnect the clevis pin, nice and fiddly if you have big hands. If you are undoing the 2 bolts and nuts on your own then you will need to jam the spanner on one side while you undo the other side. Then it will come out quite easily.

This is a tip from another older thread:

"I did my master cylinder just before LeMans last year, think it was £52 + VAT from clevor trevor(?). I found a good blob of superglue on both bolts pushing them thru the holes on the cylinder casting, allowed me to locate the cylinder on the pedal box frame and tighten up the nyloc nuts - Job done. Made easier with the bleeding kit with a NRV on it to allow one man operation."

Edited by N7GTX on Thursday 2nd February 17:17

[ProjectChimaera]

caduceus said:

Thanks Iain, will make sure I take the bugger out and measure first.

Do you have any idea if there is a nack on how to remove the clevis pin assy from the pedal? Am I right in assuming the whole pedal box doesn't need to come out? It looks like it's just the two bolts and the pushrod to pedal...

The clevis pin on mine was a one piece item which has a u shaped spring clip incorporated with the actual pin. Simply push it off the shaft, hinge it up and slide out the pin.having recently had the pedal box out of mine I would imagine that you can undone the pipe and nuts and lift out from the inner wing.

[caduceus]

Well that's all gone to st. The brass pipe nut was on so tight it has rounded off. Even after leaving it to soak on WD40 overnight

So as usual, what started out as a small'ish job, has now meant the whole box has to come out. And at least one line will need re making.

For the first time since starting this resto, I'm wishing I'd never started it.

[caduceus]

ProjectChimaera said:

The clevis pin on mine was a one piece item which has a u shaped spring clip incorporated with the actual pin. Simply push it off the shaft, hinge it up and slide out the pin.having recently had the pedal box out of mine I would imagine that you can undone the pipe and nuts and lift out from the inner wing.

Forgot to say, thanks for the tip Adrian

[caduceus]

Does the steering column have to com out to get the pedal box out? Or can it be manoeuvred out with column in situ?

[TwinKam]

caduceus said:

Well that's all gone to st. The brass pipe nut was on so tight it has rounded off. Even after leaving it to soak on WD40 overnight

So as usual, what started out as a small'ish job, has now meant the whole box has to come out. And at least one line will need re making.

For the first time since starting this resto, I'm wishing I'd never started it.

If the pipe nut is rounded to the point that you are going to renew that pipe anyway, just cut it (side cutters will do it), then at least you can remove the master cylinder without having to remove the whole pedal box.

[ProjectChimaera]

caduceus said:

Does the steering column have to com out to get the pedal box out? Or can it be manoeuvred out with column in situ?

I took mine out with the column in situ.
Remove the bonnet cable from the bonnet end and pull it through, it goes through a hole in the pedal box.
I undid the throttle pedal mountings from the pedal box and left it there.
Unbolt the servo from the pedal box, you may want to split the master cylinder from the servo and pull it forward. Are you disconnecting the brake pipes from within the car? If not then it might be very tight with the column in.
When I reinstalled the box I pulled the pin out from the clutch pedal and only reinstalled the clutch pedal when I'd got the box the other side of the column.
In retrospect I would be tempted to remove the column if I'm unfortunate enough to ever do this job again!

Be careful with those pipes into the aluminium inner wing connection block, don't put a spanner on any of them unless you've been able to start them properly with fingers. I cross threaded one of mine and had to remove the whole block and retap it!

Good luck, it's not a nice job I'm afraid.

Please shout if you need any more info.

[Steve_D]

Are you saying you need to take the pedal box out to make a new pipe?
If so then No.
Cut the pipe with side cutters as far back as you can reach and remove the front section.
From the footwell undo the rear part of the pipe from the manifold.
With the two bits of pipe in hand you can make up a new pipe. Bent it to the shape of the rear section but don't bend the forward section.
You can then refit from inside the footwell which will leave a fairly straight section of pipe poking out beside the master cylinder which you can gently form by hand to fit.

Steve

[Hedgehopper]

You can buy this pipe ready made which may help............

http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-q0...

[caduceus]

Thanks chaps for the replies, I was getting rather jaded with it yesterday.

Rik and Steve are right and I don't know why I didn't see it. Think my mind is rather preoccupied at the moment and finding it hard to concentrate. I had no intention of opening the garage door today, but after seeing your replies it's given me a bit of a boost, so thanks again, much appreciated.
I've got some pipe and ends left over from when I renewed all the brake and fuel lines, so will just cut the bugger off and make a new one. Once I've had my second cup of coffee and the brain fog dissipates

Cheers
Cad

[Steve_D]

caduceus said:

Thanks chaps for the replies, I was getting rather jaded with it yesterday.

Rik and Steve are right and I don't know why I didn't see it. Think my mind is rather preoccupied at the moment and finding it hard to concentrate. I had no intention of opening the garage door today, but after seeing your replies it's given me a bit of a boost, so thanks again, much appreciated.
I've got some pipe and ends left over from when I renewed all the brake and fuel lines, so will just cut the bugger off and make a new one. Once I've had my second cup of coffee and the brain fog dissipates

Cheers
Cad

The clutch pipe will be larger diameter so you likely don't have it in stock.

Steve