Stalled on roundabout and no power at 4,500 rpm
Discussion
Had the embarrassing situation where my car stalled at track roundabout today.... It did start eventually and got home. After that the were lots of pops and bangs and when pushing the revs to 4,500 or more there was no power in any gear.
Earlier in the day the pump wouldn't prime despite the relays clicking. Checker pump connections and eventually primed of its own free will. Fwiw but relays were changed today (cheap eliminator fix!).
The revs in town at idle were ~1100-1200 rpm nd has been for a while, it used to be ~950.
The fuel pump has played this game before but a tap of the fuel/immobiliser relay and it kicked into life.
So.... is my fuel pump knacked and are the symptoms of engine dying still standstill and loss of power at full throttle linked to it.
I hope no one says immobiliser 😚😣
Cheers Matt
Earlier in the day the pump wouldn't prime despite the relays clicking. Checker pump connections and eventually primed of its own free will. Fwiw but relays were changed today (cheap eliminator fix!).
The revs in town at idle were ~1100-1200 rpm nd has been for a while, it used to be ~950.
The fuel pump has played this game before but a tap of the fuel/immobiliser relay and it kicked into life.
So.... is my fuel pump knacked and are the symptoms of engine dying still standstill and loss of power at full throttle linked to it.
I hope no one says immobiliser 😚😣
Cheers Matt
It's an old favourite of mine, but whenever I have had the 100 amp fuse blow, the first sign was the car misbehaving and then losing power at higher revs - i.e. Not being willing to rev any higher. It happens because you are running on battery, not alternator.
You can either get under the car and unbolt it - strapped to the underside straight down from the alternator - or test it electrically. The fuse lies between the battery and the alternator, so you should see the battery voltage at the alternator. Start the car and you should see around 14 volts at the back of the alternator.....and at the battery.
You can either get under the car and unbolt it - strapped to the underside straight down from the alternator - or test it electrically. The fuse lies between the battery and the alternator, so you should see the battery voltage at the alternator. Start the car and you should see around 14 volts at the back of the alternator.....and at the battery.
How long did you drive the car for. If the 100A fuse has blown and your using battery power for spark it wont last more than say 40 minutes to 1hr before the car goes dead.
Turn your lights on and turn engine over. If lights are dim or starter is slow, Qbee is likely to be correct. ( check fuse anyway)
Turn your lights on and turn engine over. If lights are dim or starter is slow, Qbee is likely to be correct. ( check fuse anyway)
Chimp871 said:
It was about 40 minutes of driving....
I changed the 100amp fuse about a year ago. I don't know if they're prone to blowing
Shouldn't do! But then they can corrode. I changed the 100amp fuse about a year ago. I don't know if they're prone to blowing
40 mins,,, hmmm. Hopefully someone more electrical than me will come along and confirm if I'm correct but if your 100A fuse blows your using battery power alone to provide spark as alternator isn't providing power so it will drain very quickly. If you've driven it some distance I'd be surprised if it has enough power to start the car if my theory is correct.
Instead of chasing other things it's probably a good idea to start with this fuse anyway so I'd check it.
ClassicChimaera said:
Fuel pump not priming earlier.
Try the old relays again.
Is it priming ok now.
Neither old or new relays got the pump priming. They clicked but no usual pump sound. Fiddled with pump connections and still no luck.Try the old relays again.
Is it priming ok now.
Had a cup of tea, thought about it, and it primed
switched over to old relays and also primed. Then went off only for the roundabout woe.The immobiliser is only usually an issue on starting the car. As you had issues coming to a roundabout that sounds like a separate issue to me.
Stepper motor
Rotor arm and cap,
Ign module, coil.
Because you are not always getting pump to prime and this happened whilst on the move I'd be looking closely at the pump and connections.
You could do with Rover gauge to see what the stepper motor operation is like etc.
I'm my experience with a meta alarm the fuel pump usually primed. It was my starter circuit that would cause issues. If you have replaced relays I'd look at the pump end before going further. Goodluck
Stepper motor
Rotor arm and cap,
Ign module, coil.
Because you are not always getting pump to prime and this happened whilst on the move I'd be looking closely at the pump and connections.
You could do with Rover gauge to see what the stepper motor operation is like etc.
I'm my experience with a meta alarm the fuel pump usually primed. It was my starter circuit that would cause issues. If you have replaced relays I'd look at the pump end before going further. Goodluck
ClassicChimaera said:
Does the engine bay smell strongly of fuel when cranking engine. Pull a plug, check colour and if you've been turning it over and had fuel it will be wet. Try for a spark and go from there.
CC can you explain your thinking here? Possibly checking for fuel flow? I'll plug in rovergaue and post results. Off to check earth points nowSounds daft but how low was your fuel gauge reading.
Just trying to eliminate a few things
I've ran out when it suggested I had two of three gallons. Luckily I was already parked and car wouldn't start, no smell of fuel and it was low. Rather than panic I put some petrol in, problem solved
Just trying to eliminate a few things
I've ran out when it suggested I had two of three gallons. Luckily I was already parked and car wouldn't start, no smell of fuel and it was low. Rather than panic I put some petrol in, problem solved
The plot thickens! Ok plugged in RG and I had fault 48, cleared it went for a drive and then checked again on my return and fault 48 came up again.
Fault 48 is Stepper Motor! Looks like a clean & remove is required.
Here's the data from RG so would be interested to know if lambda, MAF are looking normal....
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5UkclnIHQ5jbzVsL...
Forgot to add that I can make the pump continuous from RG.
RG says: fault 48 Stepper motor fully open below 500rpm or fully closed above 750rpm. Possible faulty stepper motor or wiring connections. Stepper motor needs cleaning / is jammed. Incorrectly set idle adjustment screw. Incorrectly set throttle butterfly. Misfire or rough running because of other faults.
So, perhaps the stepper motor is the reason for my round about problems but surely not the random starting (which of course started first time tonight)
Fault 48 is Stepper Motor! Looks like a clean & remove is required.
Here's the data from RG so would be interested to know if lambda, MAF are looking normal....
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5UkclnIHQ5jbzVsL...
Forgot to add that I can make the pump continuous from RG.
RG says: fault 48 Stepper motor fully open below 500rpm or fully closed above 750rpm. Possible faulty stepper motor or wiring connections. Stepper motor needs cleaning / is jammed. Incorrectly set idle adjustment screw. Incorrectly set throttle butterfly. Misfire or rough running because of other faults.
So, perhaps the stepper motor is the reason for my round about problems but surely not the random starting (which of course started first time tonight
)Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 3rd April 19:52
Edited by Chimp871 on Tuesday 4th April 10:01
The stepper motor works on electrical pulses that the Ecu reads. When you turn engine off it should retract and actually over pulse to ensure it's fully retracted. On start up the Ecu assumes it's at zero. If it starts sticking it can get out of sinc and the Ecu misunderstands its position, lambdas read fuelling as out and try's to adjust etc etc . Just remove the stepper and plug it back in and manually operate it with RG looking to see if it acts normally.
Cleaning stepper can solve this,,, for awhile.
If operation stutters you need a new stepper most likely.
Cleaning stepper can solve this,,, for awhile.
If operation stutters you need a new stepper most likely.
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