Rovergauge results - is it normal

[Chimp871]

Just wondering if I can get a quick opinion on these RG results

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5UkclnIHQ5jbzVsL...

One tab is a drive out and the other coming back. Like to know if maf, idle valve, lambda are ok. There's a big difference between rpm target and actual but assume stepper needs a look at but besides that my main question is are the other numbers ok?

[blitzracing]

You need to get the idle side of things to work to start with so The ECU can set the long term trim. It looks to be basically working, but you have full short term Lambda trim at points (the 255 readings) so the long term trim should slowly move at idle until the short term values rotate around 0. Have you done an ECU reset or disconnected the battery recently as the ECU will need to re learn the long term trim? You need about 3 mins at a steady idle on a hot engine to set the long term trim. What values are the long term trim?

[Chimp871]

blitzracing said:

You need to get the idle side of things to work to start with so The ECU can set the long term trim. It looks to be basically working, but you have full short term Lambda trim at points (the 255 readings) so the long term trim should slowly move at idle until the short term values rotate around 0. Have you done an ECU reset or disconnected the battery recently as the ECU will need to re learn the long term trim? You need about 3 mins at a steady idle on a hot engine to set the long term trim. What values are the long term trim?

Hi Blitz

I did an ECU reset and then let it idle. Took it for a run and the results are below (ride out and ride in) and the long term trim stayed at 0. The idle seemed to be lower but only after leaving the engine idle for around minute, see at the end of IN.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5UkclnIHQ5jOGtGR...

Fault codes: none when I set out, none at turnaround point. When I got back had lambda (even) & #48 idle control valve, but thinking this could be a misfire. Did test the idle control valve via RG and would go to 99% when opened at a standstill and then go back to 0 when closed - so assume it's behaving.

On another note I measured the MAF voltages using your method. On ignition I get 0.4 volts and with engine running 1.7 volts. can I assume the MAF appears to be behaving itself (my multi-meter only goes into 10th's).

BTW it's a '98 450

Edited by Chimp871 on Tuesday 4th April 19:51

[blitzracing]

blitzracing said:

Going back to the high HC readings, you need the long term trim to be set, and the short term to be cycling around the 0 mid point on both sides. Its fine to start with 255 readings, but these should drop bit by bit as the long term sets itself. A 255 reading means its adding or removing about 20% fuel outside of its map value to try and keep it at 14.7: AFR and its run out of adjustemnt Try and get the engine to around 95'c as I dont see the water temp getting high enough for the long term trim to set itself- . You should be able to see the long term trim move bit by bit in RoverGauge if the conditions are correct over a few minutes- one is not long enough

Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 5th April 11:56

[motul1974]

Sorry to steal the thread a little, but it's regarding all the figures RG reads. I bought a RG last year for both my chim and RR classic, yet I have to admit to not actually using it on either. If I'm being honest, I guess I fear not having a clue of what I'm looking at, which is a real shame as I do have some appreciation of the technical side to our cars, so my question is there any form of idiots guide or at least and explanation of readings/targets?

[blitzracing]

The manuals are here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i0acxr8nwr10ow6/AAAIPux...

Check out the folder for Rovergauge documents- Rovergauge full instructions.

[motul1974]

Thank You.

[Chimp871]

blitzracing said:

blitzracing said:

Going back to the high HC readings, you need the long term trim to be set, and the short term to be cycling around the 0 mid point on both sides. Its fine to start with 255 readings, but these should drop bit by bit as the long term sets itself. A 255 reading means its adding or removing about 20% fuel outside of its map value to try and keep it at 14.7: AFR and its run out of adjustemnt Try and get the engine to around 95'c as I dont see the water temp getting high enough for the long term trim to set itself- . You should be able to see the long term trim move bit by bit in RoverGauge if the conditions are correct over a few minutes- one is not long enough

Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 5th April 11:56

I'll check it after a few days. But the idle is better, around 900-1000 rpm.

I found the power steering bottle bracket bolt loosely screwed into the plenum/base. Is this hole blank or right through to plenum area? What I mean is air may have been passing through plenum and passing through this loose bolt. It seems to have improved a lot after tightening up.... but I'm getting used to Chimaera red herrings!!! I take it this would contribute to incorrect AFR if does leak and possible HC MOT failure?

Edited by Chimp871 on Wednesday 5th April 21:14